exhaust leak

[honda125]

I just installed some bub jug huggers on my 2005 vtx1300c. When I finished I started the bike Man what a sound!! but I'm noticing an exhaust leak also when I cracked the throttle some flames came out the bottom pipe which don't get me wrong looks cool but can't be good. Any thoughts on what I did wrong and how to fix it?? Also while I'm at it do I need to rejet or not I keep hearing mixed views. Thanks for the help:hmm2:

[poor farmer]

I can help a little with the exhaust leak, maby, I have a friend with 3" big straights that blow fire out the top pipe. I guess as a shade tree mech, I would start with the seal at the head. Even new seals leak somtimes, try and retighten the bolts that hold that pipe( be careful not to over do it). Now, as for the rejet I personaly believe you should allways follow the instructions given with the new pipes. They have seen it all with their product. If the instructions do not adress that issue call them. I even like to use the brand they reccomend because a little diffrence in jets means big diffrence in how it runs. I would also reccomend a dino session they cost $75.00 around my house. In my humble opinion that is the only way to get 100% right. Do some research on the dino shop though, talk to peple in you area that have had it done. See if they did a good job on their baby before you take in your BABY.
Hope at least a little of that might help.

poor farmer:patriot:

[jdr2dr]

I just installed some bub jug huggers on my 2005 vtx1300c. When I finished I started the bike Man what a sound!! but I'm noticing an exhaust leak also when I cracked the throttle some flames came out the bottom pipe which don't get me wrong looks cool but can't be good. Any thoughts on what I did wrong and how to fix it?? Also while I'm at it do I need to rejet or not I keep hearing mixed views. Thanks for the help:hmm2:

You need to do a PAIR Valve job on it that will take the "Crack" out of the pipes...
The reed valves allow fresh air into the exhaust header via the PAIR valve... Buy some reed valve blocks and remove the PAIR system... instructions are on this cafe, do a "PAIR Valve" search and that will solve some of the problems that you might have --

as for jetting no need if you are lean adjust your A/F screw out 1/8 to 1/4 turn - if you have a stock airbox that should fix the problems that you have, if you have an after market AB then you can do a SCAR mod - no need to re-jet - SCAR Mod is on this site as well

Jim

[honda125]

Thanks for the great advice but what is the A/F screw and where is it located ?? Sorry for not knowing the lingo

[jdr2dr]

Thanks for the great advice but what is the A/F screw and where is it located ?? Sorry for not knowing the lingo

Under the carb right side back - hard to get to but accessable... if you look up VTX Service manuel -- it is downloadable and looking at the SCAR mods info you can see it there too...
see
http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php?t=3079

I can not find the site for the service manuel but I know someone on the site has it... saw it spoken about a few days ago... VTX c s r all the same as far the engine is concerned...

With MOST new pipes - a PAIR Valve removal is your first thing to do in my opinion... you may not have to adjust your carb at all...

Hope this helps...
Jim

[Bassdude404]

Where exactly is the exhaust leak???..If it's where the pipe goes into the head, then you probably need new crush gaskets....When changing pipes, that needs to be done...Sometimes, guys get away with not changing them and never have a problem....Then other guys have to pull the pipes and do the job twice...They're not that expensive, and it saves aggravation to just do it the first time around....Also, as long as the airbox is stock, no rejet is needed....All the pipe manufacturers say to rejet to cover their butt....I've been on this board since last September, and I've lost count of guys that just changed pipes, had the carb rejetted, and the bike runs like crap afterwards....Had more work done that they needed, and spent waaaay too much $$$ having it done....Then followed the advice of Scar, CharlieD, and Retro Rick (Rich????..Sorry bud, having brain fart!!) to get their ride running better than the day it left the factory....

[Charlie D]

new gaskets can be found at an auto parts store
Fel-Pro 60569

getting rid of the pair valve is a must to get rid of backfireing and popping.

check the plugs on a cold motor if they are white you need to adjust the air fuel (pilot screw) you may even need one shim to the needle (check out scar carb post it is a sticky on the forum).

If you have trouble just holler and someone will help you out.

[Dapper]

Where exactly is the exhaust leak???..If it's where the pipe goes into the head, then you probably need new crush gaskets....When changing pipes, that needs to be done...Sometimes, guys get away with not changing them and never have a problem....Then other guys have to pull the pipes and do the job twice...They're not that expensive, and it saves aggravation to just do it the first time around....Also, as long as the airbox is stock, no rejet is needed....All the pipe manufacturers say to rejet to cover their butt....I've been on this board since last September, and I've lost count of guys that just changed pipes, had the carb rejetted, and the bike runs like crap afterwards....Had more work done that they needed, and spent waaaay too much $$$ having it done....Then followed the advice of Scar, CharlieD, and Retro Rick (Rich????..Sorry bud, having brain fart!!) to get their ride running better than the day it left the factory....
+1 to that!
"tighten each pair of exhaust pipe joint nuts alternately in several steps to 17 lbf-ft"
This is the torque value taken from the manual for the crush gasket location.

[jdr2dr]

Where exactly is the exhaust leak???..If it's where the pipe goes into the head, then you probably need new crush gaskets....When changing pipes, that needs to be done...Sometimes, guys get away with not changing them and never have a problem....Then other guys have to pull the pipes and do the job twice...They're not that expensive, and it saves aggravation to just do it the first time around....Also, as long as the airbox is stock, no rejet is needed....All the pipe manufacturers say to rejet to cover their butt....I've been on this board since last September, and I've lost count of guys that just changed pipes, had the carb rejetted, and the bike runs like crap afterwards....Had more work done that they needed, and spent waaaay too much $$$ having it done....Then followed the advice of Scar, CharlieD, and Retro Rick (Rich????..Sorry bud, having brain fart!!) to get their ride running better than the day it left the factory....

AND THAT WOULD BE ME!!!! Found a leak in the Pipe at the head - did not replace the gasket with the last go - round... Bought two today and replaced them -

Sideburner off - pipes split at the head pipe and muffler - removed the pipes from the head and FOUGHT with the old gasket getting it out

(ANYONE HAVE A GOOD EASY WAY TO REMOVE THE OLD GASKETS, LET ME KNOW FOR THE NEXT TIME) if there si a next time... :-(

Replaced everything and tightened everything according to instructions Head pipes first -- joint to the muffler -- then the bracket to the bike...

Everything fine now...

[Charlie D]

AND THAT WOULD BE ME!!!! Found a leak in the Pipe at the head - did not replace the gasket with the last go - round... Bought two today and replaced them -

Sideburner off - pipes split at the head pipe and muffler - removed the pipes from the head and FOUGHT with the old gasket getting it out

(ANYONE HAVE A GOOD EASY WAY TO REMOVE THE OLD GASKETS, LET ME KNOW FOR THE NEXT TIME) if there si a next time... :-(

Replaced everything and tightened everything according to instructions Head pipes first -- joint to the muffler -- then the bracket to the bike...

Everything fine now...

I just punch a hole in them then screw a sheetmetal screw in a bit grab it with vise grips and tug.

[jdr2dr]

I like it -- thanks

[biker pilot]

AND THAT WOULD BE ME!!!! Found a leak in the Pipe at the head - did not replace the gasket with the last go - round... Bought two today and replaced them -

Sideburner off - pipes split at the head pipe and muffler - removed the pipes from the head and FOUGHT with the old gasket getting it out

(ANYONE HAVE A GOOD EASY WAY TO REMOVE THE OLD GASKETS, LET ME KNOW FOR THE NEXT TIME) if there si a next time... :-(

Replaced everything and tightened everything according to instructions Head pipes first -- joint to the muffler -- then the bracket to the bike...

Everything fine now...
I use a cotter key remover. Most hardware stores sell them for less than $5.00.

[biker pilot]

+1 on using new gaskets. Also, if you used the original acorn nuts from your stock exhausts, they may be bottoming out,(many after market pipes have thinner flanges) giving you the impression that you have torqued them to 17 ft/lbs.
Go to your local Ace hardware store and buy stainless hex nuts to replace the acorns with.

[jdr2dr]

I use a cotter key remover. Most hardware stores sell them for less than $5.00.

Yeah, I have one of those too... Never dawned on me to use it! Thanks

You guys are great - this board has saved me a ton of trouble $$$$ and time...

Great ideas too

Jim:choppersm

[jdr2dr]

+1 on using new gaskets. Also, if you used the original acorn nuts from your stock exhausts, they may be bottoming out,(many after market pipes have thinner flanges) giving you the impression that you have torqued them to 17 ft/lbs.
Go to your local Ace hardware store and buy stainless hex nuts to replace the acorns with.

Great idea too - next time... I'll do that... I am sure I have a good seal this time...

Jim

[Dapper]

AND THAT WOULD BE ME!!!! Found a leak in the Pipe at the head - did not replace the gasket with the last go - round... Bought two today and replaced them -

Sideburner off - pipes split at the head pipe and muffler - removed the pipes from the head and FOUGHT with the old gasket getting it out

(ANYONE HAVE A GOOD EASY WAY TO REMOVE THE OLD GASKETS, LET ME KNOW FOR THE NEXT TIME) if there si a next time... :-(

Replaced everything and tightened everything according to instructions Head pipes first -- joint to the muffler -- then the bracket to the bike...

Everything fine now...
Glad to see everything OK now. On to the next mod LOL!!!