robbin40
05-10-2008, 03:52 AM
:)I have been using this mode now for about 2 months and it is working very well. Thought I would try to send it out to anyone interested in it. I have written a document with pictures in the event anyone should be interested in looking at it. I was unable to post it. I am not sure I can get the pictures in as attatchments in this thread (kinda new to the forum), but I am gonna give it a try.:choppersm
VTX 1300 A/F Adjustment Extension
For anyone interested in being able to adjust the air fuel ration while riding.
2167
The parts necessary to make the Air and Fuel Adjustment Extension for the VTX 1300 are as follows:
Item 1: One 16028-MEA-671 Screw Set B from www.RONAYERS.COM (http://www.RONAYERS.COM) for $16.48, and Item 3 is one 17202-MEA-670 Stay Idle Adjust for $1.61, also from Ron Ayers. Shipping cost is $9.00 You can also reach them by phone at 1-800-888-3084. These parts are OEM stock parts and can be purchased from your local Honda Dealer as well. You may be able to save on shipping costs.
Item 2 is avalable from Hicks Custom Machine Works www.hicksmachine.com (http://www.hicksmachine.com) or by phone at 1-832-724-3324
You will need one AFS-VTX13 Hicks screw, if you do not already have one. The cost is $30.00 and incluces shipping.
Item 4: Steel pin 1/16 inch thick. (Get from anywhere, make your own)
Idle Adjust Modification
Cut back idle adjust threads to approximately 1/4 inch from lip (washer like stop) of screw. With a file or grinder round the cut end of the idle adjust to shape the drill bit tip for the Hicks A/F Modification for a good tight fit. Set aside.
Modifying the HIcks A/F Screw for Modification
(You must be percise with this step! A drill press and vice is very useful!)
Step 1: On the head (top) of the A/F screw drill a hole in the center with a 5/32 US drill bit. Drill approximately 1/4 inch deep. (Cautoin: DO NOT OVER DRILL!)
Step 2 Take idle adjust modification and put it in the hole on the head of the A/F screw (Step 1) With a 1/16 US drill bit, drill a hole all the way through the side of the A/F screw, through the center hole drilled in Step 1 while holding the idle adjust tightly in place, and come out the other side of the A/F screw head. (You will also be drilling a hole through the idle adjust modification at the same time.)
2164
Make a pin from a 1/16 piece of steel wire, nail, ect . . and put through the center side hole allowing 1/16th inch clearance on each side of the hole and brad both sides.
By now most everyone has done the par valve mode. For those who have not performed this modification, it must be done before the Air Fuel Extension will work because the par valve hose will be in the way of the A/F Extension. You can temporarily disconnect this hose, block it, and cap the snout on the OEM box. You can find information on how to do the par valve mode via this site.
A/F Stay Location
This modification is for the stock OEM Box, but will work with other breathers. You must find the proper location for your stay to fasten. Remove the drain tube from the OEM box and cut the snout where the drain tue is hooked to off even with the box. You can leave this hole open or close it off with a small screw. I closed mine off. This step is necessary to clear an area for the new A/F screw extension. This will allow the adjuster knob to come out under the back bottom of the box, making it easy to adjust the A/F ratio while riding. Drill a hole on the bottom side of the OEM box directly below and in line of where the drain tube snout was. The stay comes from the factory at a 90 degree angle and has to be straightened out to approximately 15 degrees. Place the OEM box on the carburetor securing temporarily with two screws. Slip the new A/F extension adjustor into the stay notch and bend the new stay up or down to adjust for a perfect fit. Put bolt into the new stay and secure to the box with a washer, bolt, and nut.
2165
2166
Turn the new A/F adjuster screw till lightly closed. Then turn it out 2 1/2 turns and mark the top of the adjuster knob with something that will not disappear. I used nail polish. Ride to warm up the engine. While in 5th gear approximately 40 mph, get on the throttle hard, running up to 55/60 mph. Back off to 40 mph. Change settings by 1/8th of a turn in (lean). Run back up to 55/60 mph, paying close attention to how the bike runs. If the bike runs bad reduce speed to 40 mph, turn back 1/4 turn (rich) Repeat this process until you find your best performance and smoothest ride. With this process you will always know where your setting belongs.
Due to the thickness of the OEM A/F D Screw head, it is almost impossible to adjust the A/F screw properly with various methods being used to include the DJ tool. When you think you have the proper setings you really do not know where you are at. The Honda tool does work (bought one); however, you still have to tear everything down each time you want to adjust the A/F screw. The Hicks screw works well but you still have to tear the bike down if you are running a stock air box. I personally perferred the stock air box which I have modified to let 3" more of air in.
W. "Howard" King
Gretna, VA.
:cheers:
VTX 1300 A/F Adjustment Extension
For anyone interested in being able to adjust the air fuel ration while riding.
2167
The parts necessary to make the Air and Fuel Adjustment Extension for the VTX 1300 are as follows:
Item 1: One 16028-MEA-671 Screw Set B from www.RONAYERS.COM (http://www.RONAYERS.COM) for $16.48, and Item 3 is one 17202-MEA-670 Stay Idle Adjust for $1.61, also from Ron Ayers. Shipping cost is $9.00 You can also reach them by phone at 1-800-888-3084. These parts are OEM stock parts and can be purchased from your local Honda Dealer as well. You may be able to save on shipping costs.
Item 2 is avalable from Hicks Custom Machine Works www.hicksmachine.com (http://www.hicksmachine.com) or by phone at 1-832-724-3324
You will need one AFS-VTX13 Hicks screw, if you do not already have one. The cost is $30.00 and incluces shipping.
Item 4: Steel pin 1/16 inch thick. (Get from anywhere, make your own)
Idle Adjust Modification
Cut back idle adjust threads to approximately 1/4 inch from lip (washer like stop) of screw. With a file or grinder round the cut end of the idle adjust to shape the drill bit tip for the Hicks A/F Modification for a good tight fit. Set aside.
Modifying the HIcks A/F Screw for Modification
(You must be percise with this step! A drill press and vice is very useful!)
Step 1: On the head (top) of the A/F screw drill a hole in the center with a 5/32 US drill bit. Drill approximately 1/4 inch deep. (Cautoin: DO NOT OVER DRILL!)
Step 2 Take idle adjust modification and put it in the hole on the head of the A/F screw (Step 1) With a 1/16 US drill bit, drill a hole all the way through the side of the A/F screw, through the center hole drilled in Step 1 while holding the idle adjust tightly in place, and come out the other side of the A/F screw head. (You will also be drilling a hole through the idle adjust modification at the same time.)
2164
Make a pin from a 1/16 piece of steel wire, nail, ect . . and put through the center side hole allowing 1/16th inch clearance on each side of the hole and brad both sides.
By now most everyone has done the par valve mode. For those who have not performed this modification, it must be done before the Air Fuel Extension will work because the par valve hose will be in the way of the A/F Extension. You can temporarily disconnect this hose, block it, and cap the snout on the OEM box. You can find information on how to do the par valve mode via this site.
A/F Stay Location
This modification is for the stock OEM Box, but will work with other breathers. You must find the proper location for your stay to fasten. Remove the drain tube from the OEM box and cut the snout where the drain tue is hooked to off even with the box. You can leave this hole open or close it off with a small screw. I closed mine off. This step is necessary to clear an area for the new A/F screw extension. This will allow the adjuster knob to come out under the back bottom of the box, making it easy to adjust the A/F ratio while riding. Drill a hole on the bottom side of the OEM box directly below and in line of where the drain tube snout was. The stay comes from the factory at a 90 degree angle and has to be straightened out to approximately 15 degrees. Place the OEM box on the carburetor securing temporarily with two screws. Slip the new A/F extension adjustor into the stay notch and bend the new stay up or down to adjust for a perfect fit. Put bolt into the new stay and secure to the box with a washer, bolt, and nut.
2165
2166
Turn the new A/F adjuster screw till lightly closed. Then turn it out 2 1/2 turns and mark the top of the adjuster knob with something that will not disappear. I used nail polish. Ride to warm up the engine. While in 5th gear approximately 40 mph, get on the throttle hard, running up to 55/60 mph. Back off to 40 mph. Change settings by 1/8th of a turn in (lean). Run back up to 55/60 mph, paying close attention to how the bike runs. If the bike runs bad reduce speed to 40 mph, turn back 1/4 turn (rich) Repeat this process until you find your best performance and smoothest ride. With this process you will always know where your setting belongs.
Due to the thickness of the OEM A/F D Screw head, it is almost impossible to adjust the A/F screw properly with various methods being used to include the DJ tool. When you think you have the proper setings you really do not know where you are at. The Honda tool does work (bought one); however, you still have to tear everything down each time you want to adjust the A/F screw. The Hicks screw works well but you still have to tear the bike down if you are running a stock air box. I personally perferred the stock air box which I have modified to let 3" more of air in.
W. "Howard" King
Gretna, VA.
:cheers: