A/F screw '05 1300 VTXs RETRO

[SpitsVTX]

can't locate a/f screw, is it possible it is capped off. see a small plug that is peened into place, wondered if screw was behind this plug. read the thread that said it was behind float bowl, what side of the bike do you access it from, don't see any "D" shaped screw:hmm2:

[Retro Rich]

If you are under the right side of the bike, looking upward with your air intake off you will see a brass colored "d" shaped screw behind the float bowl underneat the carb--that is the A/F screw. It is recessed a little into the carb body. It is easier to see if you remove the tank, loosen the carb at the intake boot and tilt it gently up and out of the boot. A lot easire to adjust this way as well if you're using a standard "d" tool that isn't modified.

Hope this helps.

[Retro Rich]

Well....did you locate it? Post back please so this ticket can be closed or if we can provide further assistance.

[SpitsVTX]

Yep, I found it. I have a "D" shaped carb adjusting tool I bought a while back for tuning auto. carbs. Don't know if it's the same size, haven't had time to mess with it yet. These are the mods I've done so far, according to various suggestions I've read on this site.:coffee: Drilled stock pipes, (7 holes), removed PAIR system using block-off plates, opened up stock air filter backing plate, adjusted carb, (2 shims from Radio Shack), cut spring in carb to 5-1/16". Bike fired right up and first test drive brought a big smile.:) It made a big difference, bike pulls harder from off idle all the way thru.:spank: I've been riding the bike this way for about a week, and it has'nt popped thru the exhaust, I'd say, no more than a half a dozen times. Not really too concerned about it, but I plan on doing a plug check just to see whats happening. Probably be able to eliminate it all together with the A/F screw adjust. As soon as I save up some extra cash, I plan on getting a set of Roadhouse Dooley Pipes, about $800:( , but gotta have 'em. I plan on making my own dual snorkel air cleaner cover using the stock cover, and adding a stock replacement K&N filter. That way if I don't like the way it turns out, I'll get an after market one. Future investment includes Quadzilla fairing, Lindby highway bars, and more chrome stuff. Since I'm a professional paint repairman, that means I do it for a living, a custom paint job of my own design will be done over the winter .:D I'm just now starting a photo journal, so I'll be posting pic's as I go. I thank everybody who has helped me via this site, and look forward to more correspondence.:choppersm

[Retro Rich]

Great, glad to hear you've got it worked out and sounds like some great and unique mods. you have going on. Those pipes looks sweet, great classic "bagger" look and they're fairly new on the market.

Good luck with all your mods. and safe riding. BTW, welcome to the forum--glad to have you here.

[nocool]

hello i have a 05 1300vtc c and have put new cobra speedster slash down pipes on looks really great sounds great to but one prob at a cruse at about 55 mph i get a small poping sound more like a slaping sound comeing from the tips. and at a stop light i can smell fuel not real bad but a nuff to make me think it is running rich was looking for answers or suggestions http://http://photo.ringo.com/215/215173708RL930827155.jpg

[SpitsVTX]

Guys help me out here if I'm wrong, but I believe there is two fuel metering systems in a carb. One monitors the idle circuit, and the other at cruise speed. I know if the idle circuit is too lean it will cause popping when you are decellerating. I had that problem when I first drilled my pipes, but richening up theA/F screw solved that problem, although sometimes when it's not fully warmed up and the air temp is cool, it will pop now & then, but when the engine warms up it goes away. When I drilled my pipes, I also tuned the carb using the scar method described in another post. I also removed and blocked off the pair valve. As far as popping or slapping noise while cruising, if you haven't tuned or rejetted your carb, Iwould suggest doing so. Carefully follow the instructions using the scar method and you can save some money and you will be amazed how much better your bike pulls, and it may cause your noise to go away, since this mod has more to do with your carb at cruise than at idle.

[anbark22]

I also have an 05 Retro and just recently drilled my pipes (seven holes). I further installed a K&N air filter. I do not plan any other mods because of the 5-year extended warranty. My bike never backfires and runs OK. Would you still recommend the SCAR mod? Is there a noticeable difference in performance or driveability?
Thank you

[nocool]

well i think im running to rich as it runs great that one small probblom is all im haveing but im going to try and adjusting the A/F screw if that dont work thin ill just have this cobra jet kit that iv had in my saddle bags for 5 months put in just need to work up some cash ill get back to you guys on it thanks

[SpitsVTX]

The scar mod is relatively easy, and well worth it. You can really feel the difference. Just take your time and follow the instructions and you'll be glad you did.:patriot:

[Charlie D]

Nocool

The scar method is a much better way to go than putting in that Cobra kit.

Almost all the kit have you put in a smaller main jet and put in a bigger low speed jet.

if you take your kit and look at the sizes of jets you would need around a 210 to match up with the stock jet (208) marked as a 195 kehin size.

[nocool]

ok i will try that this weekend from what iv read and the pics looks easy but i have one ? from what i read i didnt see any thing telling me where to set the needle 1 2 3 4 witch notch would you say would be best and how many shims i dont wana have to keep taking the thing apart to trying get the right one or did i just over look that in the post iv allways been the the type of guy to say think twice cut once

[jdt3]

ok i will try that this weekend from what iv read and the pics looks easy but i have one ? from what i read i didnt see any thing telling me where to set the needle 1 2 3 4 witch notch would you say would be best and how many shims i dont wana have to keep taking the thing apart to trying get the right one or did i just over look that in the post iv allways been the the type of guy to say think twice cut once
No notches on stock needle ,the shims take the place of the cilp and notches. follow the directions its easy.I went with three shims on mine running a hurricane breather and shogun long cannon pipes ,Bike runs strong,Going to put on a dyno one day when I get time to see what it is really doing.