View Full Version : They have been ordered!
Dapper
05-10-2007, 06:34 PM
You all have given me the courage to start wrenching on my bike and I have ordered the Progressive 440-4202BC 11 1/2" black chrome (had to be different) :bleh: rear shocks with the 111126 fork spring. As soon as they arrive I will hopefully install them and report back. :hmm2: Wish me good wrench skills!
PS: I will probably install quick disc's on my luggage to show off the new hardware. LOL :choppersm
mscales
05-10-2007, 07:35 PM
Sweet. Those are the ones I would go with if I was going progressive shocks. Congrates.
Those are next on my list also. Can't wait to hear how your install goes. I feel confident about the rear shocks even though I have to order additional bolts beacuse Honda changed the rear upper bolts on my 1800F. I not that comfortable with the fork spring install. :coffee:
Dapper
05-10-2007, 08:33 PM
I'm not that comfortable with the fork either but most people say that you just need to keep a firm grip when steadily uncrewing caps. Use a socket and extension and hold on with both hands. Hey whats the worst that could happen, spring go shooting across the room, loose a little fork oil, put out an eye. LOL
epiphysis
05-12-2007, 06:11 PM
guys, this is from NC Brew's VTX 1300 site.....I did as stated...never did it before...took minutes!! Epi
Installing Progressive Fork Springs.
What you’ll need –
One set of Progressive Fork Springs
Torque Wrench
17mm Socket Head
17mm Closed End Ratchet Wrench (Real handy tool since working around the fork cap can be tight.)
6mm Torx wrench socket (it’s an Allen Wrench head – but they call them Torx heads. I bought a full metric set from Northern Tools that fits my ¼” socket wrench – real handy when working on the beast.)
A good bike lift
Start by lifting the bike – you want the front wheel completely off the ground.
Lay a towel over the front fender – and have several shop towels ready – you WILL drip some fork oil off the old springs when you pull them out.
There are some wire anchors set under the bars over each fork cap. They slide off the metal anchor point towards the center of the bars. This gives you just enough room to use the torque wrench later. (Don’t worry – they slide right back on when you’re done.)
Doing one fork start to finish at a time –
With the 6mm Torx Head socket and a socket wrench loosen the upper pinch bolt just enough to take the pressure off the fork cap. It is the pinch bolt located just below and to the rear of the fork cap. (You only need to loosen it about 1 turn.)
Using the closed end self ratcheting 17mm wrench slowly loosen and remove the fork cap. (Keep in mind that the fork spring is pushing up on it from below – keep pressure down on it with your palm as you unscrew it or it may just join the Chinese in orbit!)
Once the Fork Cap is removed take the 4” spacer out of the fork and lay it on a clean towel on the floor.
Stick your finger into the fork and remove the small metal washer that’s lying on top of the spring. Lay it next to the spacer.
Slowly remove the spring – you can bend it forward to clear the bars and slowly pull it out. Keep a shop towel around it as you pull it out as it will be dripping with fork oil.
Insert the new Progressive Spring into the fork. Although Progressive says it doesn’t matter go ahead and insert it with the closely packed end in first.
Put the metal washer in the fork – laying it on top of the spring.
Put the 4” spacer back in the fork on top of it all.
Now the fun part – pushing down on the fork cap to seat it in the fork tube use the 17” self ratcheting wrench to screw it back in. (Here’s where you find out that the socket wrench is to big – but a self ratcheting wrench is perfect for this. It takes some force to push it all in and seat it – just take your time and don’t force it if the threads don’t seat properly. Just back out and start again.
Once it’s screwed in (don’t screw it real tight) – use the 17mm socket head and the Torque Wrench to tighten it to 17 lbf-ft.
Using the 6mm Torx head socket and the Torque Wrench tighten the Upper Pinch Bolt to 17 lbf-ft.
Reattach the wire anchor on the bottom of the bars.
Clean up any drops of fork oil.
Repeat above on the other fork.
It sounds like a lot – but I did it in about 30 minutes and am admittedly mechanically inept.
Enjoy the ride.
Dapper
05-12-2007, 07:19 PM
Can't wait, I admit I am a little leary about doing this as I am inept when it comes to nuts and bolts but I am willing to try. Thanks for the step by step!
Wow, sounds simple enough. I wonder if the procedure is the same for the 1800F?:hmm2:
Dapper
05-21-2007, 07:03 PM
Well today marked another day, the Progressive 440s are on and I had a friend come over and help with the Progressive springs. Well I guess the joke is on me because the shocks were a no brainer but the springs I wasn't sure about. I had soooo much down pressure on the cap half expecting it to shoot across the room and when it finally let loose with a little blip I started to laugh. I had marks in my hand from holding down real hard. My trial by ordeal! LOL. Now to the meat of this post, after draping everything with rags (always good) I started to pull out the spring but there wasn't that much oil.
Hummmm.... is this something I should be looking at more carefully. I could see oil down there but I half expected all this oil to be dripping all over the place. Please respond because I'm real new to this and want to make sure I don't have problems. Rides real nice now (more attached to the ground?), much more responsive can't wait for the next ride!
epiphysis
05-21-2007, 08:38 PM
didnt believe how easy it was!!!!! don't say I told you so!! probably took longer to cover the bike than change the springs!!!! good job!!
Dapper
05-21-2007, 09:05 PM
How about the oil level, is that normal? Should there have been oil up to the top?
epiphysis
05-21-2007, 09:22 PM
mine wasnt....no problems!!!!
FL_VTX_GA
05-22-2007, 12:01 PM
Sounds like it all went as it should. I lost an ounce or two of oil in each side doing the change and replaced it. Bike doesn't bottom out on every speed bump anymore, and doesn't dive so much during hard braking.
avrgmike
01-21-2008, 11:51 AM
so these springs r just to tighten up the front then ? is there alot of difference in the feel of the bike now ? and this may be a dumb question but are there different size springs ? i mean could u use a shorter one to lower the front a bit or no ?
Dapper
01-21-2008, 12:05 PM
Yes there is a different feel and handling to the MC. The front end no longer dives during hard stops, also doesn't bottom out and the control around curves is much improved.
Yes you can get different sized springs to lower front end, don't know the specifics on handling etc, you will need to wait on additional posts.
pastordave
01-21-2008, 12:16 PM
Absolutely love the look of the black shocks.
Dapper
01-21-2008, 12:21 PM
I hope to some day have a black exhaust too!
miller74md
06-01-2008, 10:31 PM
Very nice. Front and rear upgrades are on my list of things to do. At least my list is slowly getting shorter.
tmichael23
06-07-2008, 03:47 AM
Hmmm, I like the part about no more hard dives and feeling more connected. Maybe my next mod. Already have the 11 1/2 " Progressives, although I was not as courageous as you DD. The fork springs I might tackle with the help of someone I know. Great Job, encourages me to try as well.
minihero
06-07-2008, 06:32 AM
DD...congratz on the new additions :)
I put 12" rears and prog front springs....
Install was easy...but you have to get thru it to actually realize it... as you now know ;)
Re; the oil level... seemed a bit low to me as well... but I spoke to a mechanic friend who stated that is normal for this particular bike..... They've been installed f/ months now w/ no issues to report.
Peace,
D
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