VTX 1300 Carburetor Adjustment - Page 4


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Thread: VTX 1300 Carburetor Adjustment

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Subbie View Post
    I dont know if anyone looks in this area anymore or not but here goes...... HELP!!! This is kinda weird. I have the biddy box mod and the kiwi mod. (pretty free flowing) I have 2 shims and the A/F is at 2 turns. My plugs are the problem. The right front plug looks like its running rich. The right rear is close to perfect. The left rear is (now get this) half perfect and half rich. The front left one looks good too. What to do?
    The various plugs througout the bike will look different.. so how is the bike running? That is the main thing, tune by performance... if you have a bunch of snowwhite plugs, then you have something to think about (lean).. but if there is some soot on the plugs then don't sweat it.. if there is some tan on the plugs.. don't sweat it... tune for performance.. most of the big boys (bigger engine builders) run around a 12:1 a/f ratio and most on these boards would think that is too rich... it just depends on which "school" you are coming from and what type of performance you expect and in what part of the power band.

    Here's a dyno run that many would think is too rich, but the bike runs fairly good for a street bike

  2. #32
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    Aug 2007
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    Miami, FL
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    Scar .. you the man !!! After two different rejets(one when the pipes were done and one when my hypercharger was put on) my bike was running ok but always felt like it was missing something. After doing some research here on the site I decided to take the plunge and put everything back to stock and apply Scars technique. My bike which has a Kury Hypercharger Pro S and Hard Chrome pipes has never felt better. Very responsive through all the gears and just feels like whatever if was missing is now there. Scar .. hats off to you brother. You the man !!!!

  3. #33
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    May 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scar View Post
    The various plugs througout the bike will look different.. so how is the bike running? That is the main thing, tune by performance... if you have a bunch of snowwhite plugs, then you have something to think about (lean).. but if there is some soot on the plugs then don't sweat it.. if there is some tan on the plugs.. don't sweat it... tune for performance.. most of the big boys (bigger engine builders) run around a 12:1 a/f ratio and most on these boards would think that is too rich... it just depends on which "school" you are coming from and what type of performance you expect and in what part of the power band.

    Here's a dyno run that many would think is too rich, but the bike runs fairly good for a street bike
    The bike runs good but I had read that you should keep an eye on the plugs as well. Is that only true if they are white? (Lean) I had probably questioned too soon anyway because the plugs are all darker the two front ones are sooty and the back ones are dark brown after putting 200 more miles on the bike. Should I just let it ride if the bike is running well? BTW thanks for the wright up and the help here.

  4. #34
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    Subbie: Sounds fine the way you are describing things... go out and have some fune.

    Cubancowboy: You are welcome.. glad things worked out for you.

  5. #35
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    a/f screw

    ok, I have done a few things this week to the bike. First I removed the pair system per this sites suggestions and the bike ran fine. I then made a new air cleaner (biddy box) using a cone air cleaner I found at autozone an matching breather. I am also running Samson Warlords with baffles in them. Last night I did this carb mod with 3 shims since I am considering this a "heavy breather". The only thing I did not do yet is adjust the A/F screw. The bike runs like crap as it sits right now. Driveable but ugly actin'. Anyway, this A/F screw, I have big hands and I can't seem to get to this thing. Looking for some suggestions on this. I have tried the .22 casing and the bullet connector but I cannot get my hand in there to put enough force to loosen it. Any suggestions? Am I going to have to spring for the "real" honda tool for this?

    Last question, how far off is this a/f screw with the stock setting? Just curious what it may be at now. Must be way off judging by the way it runs. I have verified I have no vacum leaks or kinked hoses, etc. I think it is all in the adjustment since I cannot get my paws in there. Is 3 shims ok or should I have done only two?

    Thanks for any help as I am sure these questions are something youo all have heard a 100 times!

    Kurt

  6. #36
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    Hi All.... I'm new to the forum, not cycles though. question for anybody, is the carb tuning useful for all stock bike? got an '03 1300S, runs like crap when cold, if i pull the choke, it won't stay on, immediatly starts creeping back in. wondered if Scar's carb procedure will help?

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by kurt_kemp View Post
    ok, I have done a few things this week to the bike. First I removed the pair system per this sites suggestions and the bike ran fine. I then made a new air cleaner (biddy box) using a cone air cleaner I found at autozone an matching breather. I am also running Samson Warlords with baffles in them. Last night I did this carb mod with 3 shims since I am considering this a "heavy breather". The only thing I did not do yet is adjust the A/F screw. The bike runs like crap as it sits right now. Driveable but ugly actin'. Anyway, this A/F screw, I have big hands and I can't seem to get to this thing. Looking for some suggestions on this. I have tried the .22 casing and the bullet connector but I cannot get my hand in there to put enough force to loosen it. Any suggestions? Am I going to have to spring for the "real" honda tool for this?

    Last question, how far off is this a/f screw with the stock setting? Just curious what it may be at now. Must be way off judging by the way it runs. I have verified I have no vacum leaks or kinked hoses, etc. I think it is all in the adjustment since I cannot get my paws in there. Is 3 shims ok or should I have done only two?

    Thanks for any help as I am sure these questions are something youo all have heard a 100 times!

    Kurt
    With 3 shims in there, be sure that you have trimmed the tit under the needle holder cap.. that will cause problems if the needle does not have free movement.

    If you find something that will fit into the hole of the "D" screw, then it must be "dented" a little and rotated until the dent slips in where the "D" is and then unscrew the needle.. now you know why (one of the reasons) that I recommend removing the needle the first time that you go in there and putting a notch in the head so it can be adjusted with a flat bladed screwdriver. -- Car radio antennas have also been used... also those "blue" wire/crimp connectors seem to fit over the "D" screw and work for a lot of people.

    To make things easier to work on, loosen the hose clamps on the rubber intake manifold so the carb can be rotated slightly and it will make it easier to work on the A/F screw -- DON'T FORGET TO PUSH THE CHOKE KNOB IN after you have finished working... it will be pulled out a little from moving the carb body around.. it will give you headaches if you forget and the bike will run like crap (check it now in fact if you haven't before).

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlorange View Post
    Hi All.... I'm new to the forum, not cycles though. question for anybody, is the carb tuning useful for all stock bike? got an '03 1300S, runs like crap when cold, if i pull the choke, it won't stay on, immediatly starts creeping back in. wondered if Scar's carb procedure will help?
    Using the choke on this engine is a bad idea.. loads up the plugs really fast.. you might want to clean them up and start over again.

    Your bike doesn't want to run when cold.. lean.. turn the A/F screw out maybe 1/8th turn.. not too much at a time... just a little does a lot.

    When you start the bike, do not use the choke, but instead use the throttle to keep revs up to idle speed or a little above... it will eliminate a lot of problems... the choke really is a bad deal.

  9. #39
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    Sep 2007
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    Thanks Scar, i'll see if I can get to that A/F screw.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scar View Post
    With 3 shims in there, be sure that you have trimmed the tit under the needle holder cap.. that will cause problems if the needle does not have free movement.

    If you find something that will fit into the hole of the "D" screw, then it must be "dented" a little and rotated until the dent slips in where the "D" is and then unscrew the needle.. now you know why (one of the reasons) that I recommend removing the needle the first time that you go in there and putting a notch in the head so it can be adjusted with a flat bladed screwdriver. -- Car radio antennas have also been used... also those "blue" wire/crimp connectors seem to fit over the "D" screw and work for a lot of people.

    To make things easier to work on, loosen the hose clamps on the rubber intake manifold so the carb can be rotated slightly and it will make it easier to work on the A/F screw -- DON'T FORGET TO PUSH THE CHOKE KNOB IN after you have finished working... it will be pulled out a little from moving the carb body around.. it will give you headaches if you forget and the bike will run like crap (check it now in fact if you haven't before).
    Finally got the screw. Sheesh, those engineers obviously never had to take one out. Anyway, had to improvise. Small flathead screwdriver jammed into about a 8 inch piece of 1/8" clear gas line. I was able to thread the gas line screwdriver in the and twist the thing out. Once out I carefully modified the end of it with a "permanent" extension so I can just reach my hand in the and turn it. With all that put back together I will start fiddling with the actual adjustment tomorrow.

    I did make sure the tit was trimmed far enough to let the main needle wiggle and I will check the choke tomorrow though I did not really move the carb around any. I'll post my anticiapted "success" story.

    Thanks for the help!
    Kurt

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