Honda VTX 1300 / VTX 1800 Motorcycles Forum banner

1800c won't crank -- help!

3K views 27 replies 9 participants last post by  vfreek76 
#1 ·
So I turn the key, instrument panel lights up (kickstand up, in neutral). Hit the kill switch, and the injectors engage strong, headlight comes on strong. When I push the ignition switch, the headlight dims, nothing else happens, except a barely audible click (when ignition switch is released) that seems to come from the starter relay switch on the left side of the battery. How do I get her to crank? Starter problem?

Used deep-cycle mode to trickle-charge (2 amp) the battery last night. Haven't been riding much lately, only every few weeks.

Thanks in advance for the good advice.
 
#3 ·
If it's dirt or a short in the starter button, would the starter relay switch click when I push the starter button? Just wondering...I was going to clean the switch housing this morning, but couldn't undo the Philips screws underneath because they were stripped.
 
#5 ·
Okay, I tried wiggling the starter button, but nothing happened -- still could hear the starter relay switch clicking on and off. I may run and get a screw extractor so I can get in the switch housing. Do those extractors ruin the screw? I guess I should just buy new replacement screws while I'm at it.
 
#7 ·
Never mind, got the starter button apart, accessed the copper contacts and the spring and the ball bearing. Stretched the spring a little bit, but what's a good way to clean the contacts? Baking soda? Seems like I saw another thread about this....
 
#9 ·
You can jump across the contacts with the switch apart to determine if the problem is the switch. If not, then jump across the starter solenoid posts and see if the starter engages. For both of these things but especially for the latter, make absolutely sure that the bike is in neutral and then move anything important from in front of the bike and then check again that it is in neutral.
 
#22 ·
Okay, so I tested the battery, and it's fine, reconnected the battery, then used a screwdriver to bridge across the starter relay switch, and she fired right up. So the problem is a faulty starter relay switch?

And yes, first I made absolutely sure it was in neutral, then I checked to see if it was in neutral, but I forgot to move everything in front of the bike -- should I go back and do that? ; )
 
#10 ·
For follow-up, check those switch contacts every yr. or so. A weak battery will weld the starter contacts. Make sure your battery is good with a 100 amp load test, free at an automotive parts dealer.
 
#11 ·
Here's the "How-to" for the starter button maintenance. http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html
Quite easy, especially since you've got it apart.
This quite likely is the cause for the issue you're describing.
 
#21 ·
#13 ·
I had a BikeMaster POS. Spend a few $$ more and get an OEM Yuasa YTX20, or something like that. Invest in a Battery Tender for when not riding it.
 
#14 ·
I second Paxman's comment about OEM battery and a battery tender.
Costco has one of the best deals on Battery Tenders that I have seen. This is what I use, came with leads I permanently installed on my bike and access by pulling the side cover off...

Games Machine Recreation
 
#15 ·
I said good bye to the battery a long time ago and rely solely on the kick starter.:icon_dizzy:
 
#16 ·
Nothing compares to Kick Starting a good sized V twin..
Had several.. First was a 1963 Harley bought used in 1963..
Even first COP bike was kicker (think it was 1958 or so), this was in 1971ish.
Bottom of the food chain gets the oldest least desired bike of course...
Have had my world Rocked & sore foot by them many times.. Love/hate.... LOL :)



.
 
#17 ·
Both my old HD's were shovels. The '79 FXS had a kicker and the swap meet special that I built also had a kicker. I never got launched but I did hyper extend my knee on an occasion...or two.
 
#20 ·
Looks like I get to play with the starter circuit now. Last time out it started right up but it sounded like the starter was still running. So I hit the kill switch and the engine stopped running, but was still being turned by the starter. I turned off the main switch and it is still running. I put it in gear and popped the clutch and that stopped it. Sounds like starter solenoid contacts are ate up to me. I went to start it back up and all is fine now. For now. I'm gonna see if I can order a new one unless someone has a lead to one that works just as good as it's supposed to and is easier to get. Or maybe it can be cleaned up and made reliable again. I know a low battery can do stuff like this to some contacts, but it cranks good like it always has. Unless something else might be the problem.
 
#23 ·
I don't know what you mean by, "starter relay switch". Is this the switch on the bars that you press to start the bike or is it the solenoid? If the former, before buying a new one, clean the old one and stretch the spring. Watch out when disassembling it as there are some tiny little parts that like to go flying out and then quite effectively play hide-n-seek.
 
#25 ·
Sounds like you have the problem isolated. Good luck. Let us know how this works.
 
#27 ·
As long as the current rating is equal to or greater than the original one, it should be fine. Also assuming the triggering side doesn't draw more current, as well. Looks like I'm in the same boat as you. My starter relay stuck 'ON' the other day. I'm glad you looked that up as I was getting ready to.
 
#28 ·
Not good update -- I ordered an OEM starter relay solenoid (35850-ZJ1-811), installed it snugly, then wanted to test it before I buttoned everything up. Turned the key, panel lights up strong, hit the kill switch, injectors engage strong, hit the ignition switch, the bike does a half-crank then goes completely dead. No power at all now when I turn the key. What the hell just happened? Fuse? Another switch?? Battery's good.

And thanks to all for your help so far.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top