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Winterizing bike

10K views 34 replies 20 participants last post by  beitz67 
#1 ·
Since it has been 30 years since I last had a bike, and things have changed since then, I was wondering what you all do to get bike ready for winter. I am most interested in hearing from those of you who cannot ride over the winter months (ie northern, cold weather areas). Do you have a checklist you go through to get it ready. I had a boat for 20+ years and I always used a checklist to make sure I didn't forget something.

If you have something you use or simply have ideas, please share them here for the benefit of all of us who are doing this for the first time. What is important to do, what is a good idea, etc.

Thanks again to all on this forum. It sure makes owning a bike much easier when you have a group like this to ask questions, bounce ideas off of and just chat with.
:hmm2:
 
#2 ·
Let's see if I can get it right off the top of my head...

Change the oil (put in cheap stuff and change it again in the spring)
Wash and wax
Seafoam in a full tank of gas (run it a bit to make sure it is all thru the system)
Pull the battery and take it inside, hook up to battery tender or charge it occasionally
If you have a lift then put it up on blocks to take weight off tires
Cover

I probably forgot a few things... hmmm, a checklist would be nice.
 
#3 ·
Is Seafoam similar to Stabil?
 
#4 ·
Yeah, but I bet there are a bunch of folks that will say it's much better. Any decent fuel stabilizer will work. Just mix it right.
 
#6 ·
If you use Stabil, make sure you get the Marine (Green) and not the normal (red).

The normal Stabil does not mix well with ethanol and has been found to cause problems. They had alot of trouble with it in boats and motorcycles.

I am one of those that prefer Seafoam over Stabil. I have been using it for along time and never had any problems.
 
#7 ·
I ride to the gas station 2 miles down the road with the bottle of Stabil in the saddlebag...Dump the correct amount of Stabil in the tank before topping it off...Ride back home and clean bike, waxing all metal chrome..Manuever it to the back of the garage, and remove right sidecover...Plug battery tender into the pigtail I have stashed behind the right sidecover...Put the bike cover on it and count the days until springtime again....
 
#8 ·
Plus what has been mentioned, top off the coolant system, test anti-freeze and probably need to circulate every couple of months. Wishing all a nice day.
 
#9 ·
Winterizing

+1 to all suggestions. I've never had trouble with red StaBil, and I run ethanol--maybe it's because ethanol is made here in Iowa! Buy by price. Tank should be full, engine run till StaBil is through the fuel system. No need to change oil in the winter, but do change it in the spring. I use Honda synthetic in the red bottle. Bring tires up to correct pressure, and roll the bike a few inches every week or two to prevent flat spots. Check the pressure again in the spring. No need to remove the battery if you do one of two things: Connect the line that came with your charger to the battery terminals (only remove the seat once), let it dangle inside the side cover, and plug in the maintainer when you need to; or install a power outlet that is connected directly to the battery and simply plug the maintainer into it. I use a Coliant Powerlet which also serves my heated vest, but there are ways to hook up a simple lighter socket. Your maintainer should come with a lighter plug as one of the options. Finally, start the engine once a week and let it come to full operating temperature (when the cooling fan comes on). Raise the kickstand and shift the transmission through the gears while holding in the clutch lever, returning it to first gear. You'll be ready to rock and roll when it starts getting warm!
 
#14 ·
Winterize? Too much work - I just keep driving! :)

(and I live farther north than any of the above)
You, sir, must have antifreeze for blood. North Dakota and you keep riding in the winter? What do you do about snow/ice? Studded motorcycle tires?

:icon_eek:
 
#11 ·
Cant remember who it was, but I got scolded for starting my bike every other week during the winter.
:nono:

You will get condensation in the engine and it will rust from the inside as the engine will not get warm enough just idling there.

Button her up and let her sit there until spring. No need to start her up.

:choppersm
 
#15 ·
Snowmobile Suit
Good Gloves
Windshield
Full Face Helmet


Only time I dont ride is if precipitation is called for (being Rain or Snow)

Roads have to be dry, and Ice-Free.

Other than that, I dont really care what the temperature is. The snowmobile suit works perfectly.

The only problem I have with it is its so warm I start sweating before I get outside! :)

-Gonz
 
#16 ·
Snowmobile Suit
Good Gloves
Windshield
Full Face Helmet


Only time I dont ride is if precipitation is called for (being Rain or Snow)

Roads have to be dry, and Ice-Free.

Other than that, I dont really care what the temperature is. The snowmobile suit works perfectly.

The only problem I have with it is its so warm I start sweating before I get outside! :)

-Gonz
Hmmm... I suppose that would be doable, though I get cold pretty easy. I think my wife would finally sign me up for that long "vacation" at the sanitarium. Would make for some talk at work too... waddling down the hallway with snow boots, suit, etc. would likely get some comments.
 
#19 ·
Since it has been 30 years since I last had a bike, and things have changed since then, I was wondering what you all do to get bike ready for winter. I am most interested in hearing from those of you who cannot ride over the winter months (ie northern, cold weather areas). Do you have a checklist you go through to get it ready. I had a boat for 20+ years and I always used a checklist to make sure I didn't forget something.

If you have something you use or simply have ideas, please share them here for the benefit of all of us who are doing this for the first time. What is important to do, what is a good idea, etc.

Thanks again to all on this forum. It sure makes owning a bike much easier when you have a group like this to ask questions, bounce ideas off of and just chat with.
:hmm2:
Ride her all year and dont sweat the winterization:mosh:
 
#22 ·
Mine only sat for about 2 weeks last winter without being ridden. Granted, I was riding in 20 - 30 degree weather when the roads were clear, but nontheless....winterize......nah....I'll just ride!!
 
#23 ·
anyone getting condensation on the outside of the engine? I put my bike away last week in my shed and everyday I have to go out and wipe the condensation off the clutch housing and sometime the cylinder heads. I don't get any condensation on any other metal parts. Can anyone tell me how to prevent this?
 
#26 ·
Winterize??

I rode all year in Connecticut, Maryland, and Virginia. I live in North Florida now. It was 50 deg F this morning. First 'brisk' morning we've had. Rode for an hour. Felt great!

They ride bikes in Russia during the winter.

Get some winter riding gear and a windshield and ride the d** thing. Nothing's gonna freeze and fall off.

Geezer
 
#27 ·
You guys are always very thorough and ingeneous.

But I've gotta say that I think the measures sound over the top to me. Heaters and fans, oil in and out, too much!

I too ride all year. I think 8 degrees Farenheit (without wind chill) was my lowest. So long as it's dry, I ride. Even in the dead of Winter, we get days where the roads are dry. If you let her sit a couple of weeks at a stretch, you don't need to do anything. I'd try by all means to ride it a couple times per month, and just keep to your regular maintenance schedules (accounting for miles and time).

Good luck.
 
#34 ·
I work in the city, and as long as the roads are clear and dry we ride. It's fun to see the looks on peoples faces when the temperature is in the teens and we are out riding.

I don't mind the cold so much. Worst I rode in so far was 14 degrees. The issue that I have heard of is the road salt pitting the heck out of you chrome and aluminum parts. I know they are built to ride but they don't have the same level of corrosion protection as automobiles. I just don't want to see the mistress looking like a piece of crap in a couple of years.

Jason
Exactly why I put my personal bike away for the winter!
 
#30 ·
Put in a small fan to bring in (yes in) some cold outside air into your storage area. The cold outside air is very dry and will stop the condensation from the warm ground if you are using a shed with a bare ground floor. Temperature doesn't matter - you want it cold and dry in there. Leave the bike uncovered and hooked to a battery tender.
 
#31 ·
how often would you need to ride it to not do a full storage routine?

i'm hoping on the next fill up or so i can start adding sta-bil and keep the tank topped off (maybe an extra can of sta-bil mix to for easy top offs?), and add a battery tender, but ride when i can.

i don't really like riding in the cold (today was about my limit to ride and actually enjoy it, mid 50's) but we get the ocassional odd warm day through the winter and i'd like to get a ride in when i can.
 
#33 ·
I don't mind the cold so much. Worst I rode in so far was 14 degrees. The issue that I have heard of is the road salt pitting the heck out of you chrome and aluminum parts. I know they are built to ride but they don't have the same level of corrosion protection as automobiles. I just don't want to see the mistress looking like a piece of crap in a couple of years.

Jason
 
#35 ·
I usually follow the same process as Bassdude, except if it's clean and dry I'll get her out for a ride from time to time. Ice armor gloves, Tek Socks, and first gear HT overpants really do the trick!!

After my knee surgery Sept 22nd, my goal is one more ride by year's end. So I'll do the seafoam and cleanup, then wait for the sawbones to forget to tell me not to ride. LOL
 
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