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Vibration

5K views 23 replies 12 participants last post by  PaXman11 
#1 ·
Just got bike back from having new tires installed. Now have vibration from 55-60 mph. Very bad when accelerating through that range. Also saw where oil had pushed out vent and rear end very hot to the touch. Any thoughts by you mechanically minded folks?
 
#4 ·
Vibration -- later.
Right now we are more worried about the oil leak.

IMPORTANT:

I do this every time I get my X back from the stealer

If the air-box is ever removed by you or the stealer, there is a possibility the breather hose for the crankcase could get pinched. (This hose is the pressure relief for the crankcase, so pressure dose not build up.)You could have a pinched hose.

If it is pinched, pressure will build up in the crankcase and blow the seal out around the shifter lever.
If this seal is ever blown out, you can put it back in by tapping it back in.
A simple way to check is:
Take the air cleaner cover off.
Take the dipstick out and lay a 3x3 single layer of tissue paper over the opening.
Take a common drinking straw and hold it over the smaller hole in the air-box, (the one that sticks out), and give it a puff of air. If it blows the tissue off, you’re OK. If not, the hose is pinched behind the air-box.



If the hose is kinked or blocked how long does it take before you start leaking oil as you're riding. As the engine warms up the oil expands and build up pressure in the crankcase and if the hose is pinched it build up enough pressure to blow the seal out around the shift lever. You just have to put it back in. I have heard of some that have driven many miles without any damage except for a mess to clean up and a dangerous oil covered rear tire.

Donut, Doug,Coloma, Mi.
******************************************************************************************


Don't feel bad. It has happens to a lot of Xriders out there and i have been posting the same message since 2004 to all of them. Some have rode their bikes for miles before they ever found out about it with no damage to the bike. Some were sick thinking they had done major damage to their bike and was very happy that i saved their B*&&. And not to take it to dealer and getting a big bill. I also know of a few dealers that have posted my post on the shop wall.

Donut:patriot:
 
#5 ·
This oil is coming out of the rear end/shaft drive. There is a silver cap on top of the housing that I thought was a vent. It may just be a cap to add oil. But I could see where oil had run down the side of the housing. Also had oil splattered on the inside of the rear wheel. Do they have to lose some of the oil when they pull the rear wheel? They said they had a hard time removing the rear axle. With the vibration and oil leak I'm worried they didn't put something together right and/or damaged something. The vibration is very noticable when you accelerate from 55 to 65.

Sorry, I'll be more clear in my future post. That is good info on the breather hose. Forgive me if I ask stupid questions sometimes, the last time I owned a bike was way before the internet, I'm just getting back to riding after about 30 yrs.
 
#8 ·
Definitely came from the vent. Had a path from the vent all the way down to a drip at the bottom of the housing. I once had a gearbox that was overheating and would blow the oil out the top vent. Is there anything they could have done when putting the wheel back on that could cause this?
 
#9 ·
Took bike to another shop to have the tire balance checked. Apparently the first shop only charged me for balancing. Also the left rear shock lost the top bolt on the way to the shop on the trailer. Can only guess the first shop I took it to took the shock off for some reason. Anyway bike is riding smoothe again. Not sure about the leak, maybe they took the rear end off and overfilled it. Thanks for the replies.
 
#10 ·
Don't ever go back to the first shop not even to give them crap.

You should download the service manual and do the tire swap yourself from now on, this way you can inspect things and do it correctly.

If they did the front you need to align the axle per the book.
 
#18 ·
It will, I have an R and can get the rear out with the HF yellow jack.
 
#13 ·
I dont have to lift mine 30in.

Back to OP.
It may have more than 4oz in it.
They do get hot. Because of this. I would drain and get a qt. of syn. 80-90wt oil. and put 4 oz in it.
They probably didnt know how much tp put in and got as much as poss. in it.

they do get hot to touch, at times, you wont be able to hold you had on it. Syn oil will help some.
 
#15 ·
elmerfud....What did you find on your rear end? Was there to much oil put into it? Thanks for the update and wishing you well.
 
#16 ·
Still got the leak. Getting a few drops out the final drive after each ride. I guess the first shop I took it to must have damaged a seal when removing the axle. Not seeing any oil on the wheel so I guess it's not leaking too bad. It may have been overfilled initially because the 1st time I checked it the oil ran out pretty good. After checking around I found a mechanic with a good reputation that lives about an hour away that I plan to take the bike to this winter to check the leak. Looked like there are special tools needed to replace that seal so I'm not sure I want to try doing it myself. Until then I'll keep a close check on it to make sure it doesn't get worse.
 
#20 ·
I had a flat on my rear tire on the road a few weeks ago, and had to take my bike to a Yamaha Dealer to buy a new rear tire. I had no choice but to let them remove the rear tire and mount a new tire. I was a little concerned since they were not a Honda Dealer. I always like to do this myself so I can follow the manual, but I must admit that I have had no problems. I have used them before to mount new tires that I had removed and taken in. Anyway, when I took the rear wheel off a few months ago to mount a new tire, the axle was almost welded in. My bike is a 2006 R and I have had it about 18 months, and I guess it had never been removed before. When I finally got it out after a lot of work it was dry as a bone. When I mounted the new tire, I put a coat of grease on the axle so that I would not have that problem again. I noticed that the Yamaha dealer did the same when he changed out the rear tire. Anyway, when I removed it I had to loosen the shocks to get the wheel in. That is what your dealer probably did. Not sure what happened to the rear drive Oil etc.
 
#22 ·
Oil coming from the final drive vent cap is most likely from over filing the final drive oil. You need to check the manual to see if the bike is supposed to be on its side stand or straight up and down for filling. Fill until the oil is at the bottom of fill cap hole and or till it starts to run out. No need for extra. I believe excessive heat could be caused by over tightening the axle shaft. Lift the rear tire off the ground and make sure rear tire spins freely with no binding or tight spots and torque the axle shaft with a torque wrench always. I hope this helps.
 
#23 ·
While it is always the optimal option to tighten all fasteners to the specified torque, it can be difficult to access the axle nut with a socket to allow use of a torque wrench. The exhaust may be in the way. It is probably acceptable to just tighten the axle nut with a wrench (6 point box end is preferred if available and if it can fit past the exhaust but an open end or even adjustable crescent will work) and just get it "gudentite". I've done this on many bikes including VTX1300s without a problem. Of course, it is possible to use a torque wrench with a crow's foot and make the necessary calculations to tighten the rear axle nut to the specified torque. Unfortunately, few people have the necessary tools to do this or the knowledge to make the necessary calculations.
 
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