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Oil change gone bad...

6K views 33 replies 26 participants last post by  Fuman 
#1 ·
I think I stepped in the doo-doo...

Had to buy oil and filters to do oil changes on my 3 cars... fortunately, they all use the same 5w-30 oil. While I was in Autozone I figured I'd get oil and a filter for the bike. They cross referenced the Purolator oil filter and I picked up a Fram. Not my first choice, but it would do. At 3500 miles, I'm switching to synthetic, so I picked up 4 quarts of Castrol Syntec 10W-40.

Got back tot he house and figured I'd start on the bike first since I'd never done a bike. First lesson learned... buy a shorter oil drain pan for the next change. I managed with my existing one and one of my wife's round cake dishes. The filter was a bugger and I had to go back to buy another oil wrench. I practically destroyed the OEM filter to get it off, but it came off. The new filter was a bit taller, but it went on with no problems. Then I filled the motor with the Castrol Syntec 10W-40. Then it hit me...

This is motor oil for a car... not a bike.

Luckily, I haven't started the bike yet. So I guess I'm out the $28 for the oil I just put in the bike and I'll have to go to GET THE RIGHT OIL!!!!!

I feel like gouging my eyes out with a soldering iron. Maybe I'll drain the new oil out of the bike and throw it in the wife's Maxima :hmm2:

How bad did I just screw the pooch on this?
 
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#2 ·
Trust me, I have heard worse. Like forgetting to put the oil in and takeing it for a very expensive spin. DUH!

The smart ones will chime in but I would say pull the filter and drain as much out as possible. New filter, proper oil and see how she does. If have slipping drain and start over. Thoes would be my thoughts.
 
#4 ·
Yeah, just catch it something clean an re-use it for something else.
I'd be a bloody-pulp from smack'n "myself" around, if I beat myself up on a regular basis. Changed oil in 4wheeler last week, forgot to put the drain plug back in... not sure where my head was. Imagine my dismay as I watched what I poured in, just pour right back out on the ground....
all the while, thinking to myself "wes, you dumbass."
 
#5 ·
Well... that's the most expensive oil change I've ever had. Spent $91 on oil and filters for the three cars and the 4 quarts that I douched the inside of the X with. Went to the Honda MC dealer down the road and picked up a gallon of Honda MC 10W-40 and a new filter. $35 for that trip.

Changed the oil and filter... AGAIN... and everything went OK. Started her up and she ran fine. Let her idle for a little and took it down the street to run through the gears. Shifted fine and ran smooth.

I'm supposed to go out for a ride tonight with some friends... If the wife gets home from work in time. I'll run the bike on this oil and change over to MC synth by the end of July.

The new/used filter that I installed only had a bit of oil on it when I removed it, so I'll clean that up and keep it for the next change. So it's not a total loss. As for the synth oil I removed from the bike... I'll soak a HD tshirt in it and burn it like a tiki torch tonight to keep off the skeeters :drunk:

I hope I never have to go through this again.
 
#7 ·
on the vtxoa board an article in the power news on breaking in a new motorcycle engine actually recommends changing the oil after 20 miles of hard riding with your favorite brand of car 10w40 oil and then switching to synthetic after 1500 miles. Anyway what horrible thing would happen if you used the car 10w40 ? I`m not a mechanic or knowledgable wrench guy, just asking.
 
#10 ·
The only downfall I am aware of is that your clutch might slip a bit due to different formulation. That is "might!". Auto oil is not designed for wet clutches in bikes but I have been in tight spots in the past and used auto oil in my bikes and have never ever once had a problem. Like SilverVTX said, The wrong oil is still far better than no oil!

That being said, I am NOT advocating anyone go out and do this. I've never had problems but other people say they have. I use motorcycle oil for motorcycles unless I have no choice. :beer:
 
#9 ·
Actually, using "Energy Conserving" oil won't hurt, just will probably cause some clutch slippage. If that occurs, change the oil.

Whatever remains inside and in the filter will be minimal and not of concern.

Just like needing oil on the road. Buy whatever is available and drive on. An "EC" oil is better than none.

As for the "EC" oil, drain it into something clean and use it in the car. Nothing need be lost here.

Regards.
 
#13 ·
I just ran 3000 miles on automotive grade Royal Purple with a Purlator filter. Changed the oil last week with the same stuff. No problem. As others have mentioned. As long as it does not say energency conserving on the label you are OK. I've searched several cycle web links on oil.
 
#14 ·
Not that I am knowledgeable but, for those that have had bikes for a while...What kind of oil did you run in your older bikes? I remember an '80 CB750 that I ran automotive oil in for years. I don't think they even offered Motorcycle oil until the last 10-20 years.

I did read an article or two that reaffirms the wet clutch and the composition of the MC oil helping to maintain the binding. Now I won't ever run Automobile oil in my VTX but again, I do remember buying the oil and filter off the automotive shelves when that CB750 needed it.
 
#15 ·
buettner:

I had a 1980 CB750 as well, and i ran whatever was on sale when i did my oil change. I really didn't care much about that bike, because I was pretty sure I wasnt going to kill it any time soon. And, I didnt. =)

10W40 car oil isn't going to do any long term damage to your X. heck, it probably wont do any short term damage either. As said, you MAY have some clutch slippage, etc, but I doubt it.
 
#17 ·
Well... hindsight gives you 20/20 vision.

I swapped it out for the Honda oil because I was going for a ride that night to Mohegan Sun and didn't want any problems. None were had. Since the Castrol Syntec is cheaper than Synth at my Honda dealership, I'll probably pick up some more for the next change.

Glad to hear that it won't hurt anything.
 
#20 ·
Yeah you would have had no problem with that oil. i use castrol gtx in all my engines. Now the fram oil filter could cause trouble. the end caps are made of cardboard and glued together there have been reports of them coming apart in extreme heat . the walmart super tech filter is better and less expensive. there made by puralator. bosch is a good filter also.
 
#21 ·
Amen on the Rotella T Syn. Run it in the cars, boat & bike. Just got back from a 255 mile run in 90+ heat and the X just keeps on running as sweet as can be.
 
#25 ·
Oil change No-no, maybe...

just did the 600 mile on my x. Did a no-no and want to hear how bad....
Missed the front drain plug. Drained the rear plug and filter.
put in 4 qts of AMSOIL w/AMSOIL filter.

Took it out for a few miles, maybe 20.
THEN was reading the manual and discovered I forgot the front plug.
Checked the oil and it was overful (hard to tell with new oil)
Pulled the front plug and let it drain til it stopped.
Checked the oil again and it still appears to be over-full.

QUESTION - There is ONE oil reservoir, correct?
I assume draining both plugs is because of the way the reservoir is constructed. (The front plug drains oil the rear plug can't get to?)
Did I screw up? how bed?
Thanks...
 
#27 ·
just did the 600 mile on my x. Did a no-no and want to hear how bad....
Missed the front drain plug. Drained the rear plug and filter.
put in 4 qts of AMSOIL w/AMSOIL filter.

Took it out for a few miles, maybe 20.
THEN was reading the manual and discovered I forgot the front plug.
Checked the oil and it was overful (hard to tell with new oil)
Pulled the front plug and let it drain til it stopped.
Checked the oil again and it still appears to be over-full.

QUESTION - There is ONE oil reservoir, correct?
I assume draining both plugs is because of the way the reservoir is constructed. (The front plug drains oil the rear plug can't get to?)
Did I screw up? how bed?
Thanks...

Do yourself a favor, drain completely & start over, no need to guess on something like this.
 
#29 ·
I've changed my own oil 3 times now. I use Castrol GTX 10w/40. No problems here.
50 licks for resurrecting a 3 yr old post! :spank: :spank: :spank:

(Oh well, at least we can't say "Use the Search feature!" :D)

Start all over, or just keep draining 'some' and re-fill back to correct level. If you didn't drain the front and added 4, you are less than 1 qt overfull. The 'range' betwwen add and full on the dipstick is 1/2 qt.
I didn't even notice this was an old post. I was responding to the original post. :spank:bad me
 
#28 ·
50 licks for resurrecting a 3 yr old post! :spank: :spank: :spank:

(Oh well, at least we can't say "Use the Search feature!" :D)

Start all over, or just keep draining 'some' and re-fill back to correct level. If you didn't drain the front and added 4, you are less than 1 qt overfull. The 'range' betwwen add and full on the dipstick is 1/2 qt.
 
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