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Thread: Speedometer Light Color Change

  1. #21
    Gonzo1970's Avatar
    Gonzo1970 is offline Equito Passim Missouri Riders Group
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    Quote Originally Posted by drparkwood View Post
    There are many types of LEDs, sizes, angle of light coverage, power, etc. it's not as easy as a trip to radio shack. I dabble in making LED stuff but haven't ventured "under the hood" of the X yet. Be careful which lights you pick up, as it can cause un-intended feed back or pull to many amps and potential cause problems. I'm not an expert, just very conservitive on things that may cost me money.

    Thats correct. The correct LED's need to be used. I think I have the spec sheet somewhere.. I think I emailed that to Mortikus, but I dont remember. Ill see if I can dig it up when I get home..

    For some reason, 1.5 comes to mind.. but its been awhile.. And Im no soldering expert, so Im not going to tear it into myself.

    -Gonz

  2. #22
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    There was a link to the LEDS in his post on the OA board, but it is dead now. I remember they were very tiny.
    Doing it yourself would be difficult unless you were very good at soldering. Too much heat and you could ruin other components.

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    Glad this thread got some life.. I had forgotten about it.

    I found the spare speedo I had in the garage.

    Took the covers off to expose the pcb board. Damn those LEDs are tiny.

    I will take & post some pics tonight.

  4. #24
    Mortikus's Avatar
    Mortikus is offline Slayer of Chickens
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    Found it... posting info and pic:
    NOTE: There are two separate writeups here... enjoy both!



    ---------------------------------------------------
    Honda VTX Speedometer Backlight Modification

    1) Disconnect speedometer wiring assembly (tank remains on bike)
    a. Remove rubber housing (simply pull or work back) – Right side, front, underneath tank.
    b. Disconnect two (2) small green connectors. Use small (eyeglasses sized) screwdriver to release catch
    c. Work wiring harness out behind tank support, bend flexible tab/finger on underside of tank
    2) Remove three (3) screws holding chrome speedometer assembly (lower three – closest to rider). Remove gas cap, lift rear of assembly up over gas neck and then entire assembly forward. Replace gas cap.
    3) Moving to work bench, remove remaining four (4) screws holding speedometer assembly to chrome housing.
    4) Remove two (2) short silver screws – separate speedometer assembly from bracket.
    5) Remover two (2) long thin silver screws – reset switch wires
    6) Remove two (2) black screws from wiring collar ring, push grey rubber seal through opening (at least free it from seal)
    7) Remove four (4) black screws, remove back of speedometer assembly.
    8) Remove four (4) black screws, white washers from speedometer assembly faceplate.
    9) Remove face plate, place in a non-abrasive area (soft plastic?)
    10) Remove two (2) small black screws from back of circuit board.
    11) Mark (magic marker) a stripe on speedometer needle motor
    12) Unsolder speedometer motor pins (8), I used solder wick, straighten tabs
    13) Unsolder digital readout pins (#?) long row of pins in middle of board. Make sure pins are free, when they are, board will separate from display.
    14) Mark original LEDs on non-solder side ( I used a red marker – to make sure you don’t reuse the originals)
    15) Unsolder the seven (7) LEDs. I used a hot air station at work to remove mine, this was very simple. I also tested using solder wick, and this also works. The hot air is quick; using wick will take a bit longer but works. ( A hot air soldering station costs about $600 – I do not own one)
    16) Verify placement, the notch in the LED is placed where the triangle is printed on the circuit board.
    17) Use your soldering iron and flatten the solder at each LED trace to a smooth level.
    18) Using soldering iron, ‘tack’ the first side of the LED to the solder pool. Then solder the other side, go back to the first and resolder the first tack.
    19) When complete seven (7) LEDS replaced, put a towel or cardboard on tank, plug in unit and verify that LEDs work. If good, then reassemble unit in reverse order from disassembly.
    20) Solder digital display, needle motor.
    21) Faceplate, back plate so that speedometer assembly complete.
    22) Attach switch wires, bracket, and mount to housing. Reattach housing to tank, while making sure wires are properly routed.
    23) Test and verify operation.
    24) Ride bike, display cool new backlight when ever opportunity presents.

    NOTES:
    1) A soldering iron with a very SMALL tip is required for soldering the surface mount components. The standard radio shack 25 watt iron does not look like it will work very well. I have a 35 watt Weller with interchangeable tips and I used the smallest tip you can get for the surface mount components.
    2) A magnifying glass will be helpful. Checking the solder joints will require a magnifying glass and very good light. I’d suggest a combo unit, lighted magnifying glass. I used one at work, but a regular handheld magnifying glass and a mini-mag flashlight will work just fine.
    3) I am pretty sure this mod will void warranty.
    4) I used Blue LED’s from DigiKey, part # 516-1464-1-ND.
    Part #’s: found on DigiKey catalog- Pg 2617
    http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T091/P2617.pdf
    BLUE LED’s: Digi Key # 516-1464-1-ND / Avago Technologies HSMN-A100-P00J1
    GREEN Digi Key # 516-1463-1-ND / Avago Technologies HSMM-A100-S00J1

    Rectangular Surface Mount LED’s
    SMD LEDs (3.2mm x 2.8mm)Standard PLCC Package
    3.20mm x 2.80mm 3.4v 30 ma 120 viewing angle $1.08 per unit

    I am sure other colors can be found at different sources. Here are some other sources to check:

    http://www.oznium.com/plcc-2

    http://www.newark.com/avago

    http://www.newark.com/jsp/content/printCatalog.jsp?cat=c126&page=1271&display=single

    http://www.led.net/markets/smt_index.htm

    http://www.ledtronics.com/products/ProductsDetails.aspx?WP=C397K1863

    http://www.bivar.com/pdf/04opto31.pdf

    Time Estimate:
    1) Housing removal (10 – 20 minutes)
    2) speedometer assembly removal ( 10 – 20 minutes)
    3) speedometer assembly disassembly / unsolder (20-30 minutes)
    4) LED removal replacement (30 – 45 minutes)
    5) speedometer assembly reassemble / solder (20-30 minutes)
    6) speedometer assembly replacement ( 10 – 20 minutes)
    7) Housing replacement (10 – 20 minutes)

    Total time estimate: between 1 hours to 3 hours











    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Honda VTX Speedometer Backlight Modification (by Jim-Eye)

    1) Disconnect speedometer wiring assembly (tank remains on bike)
    a. Remove rubber housing (simply pull or work back) – Right side, front, underneath tank.
    Right front sparkplug cover / cylinder trim



    b. Disconnect two (2) small green connectors. Use small (eyeglasses sized) screwdriver to release catch


    c. Work wiring harness out behind tank support, bend flexible tab/finger on underside of tank


    2) Remove three (3) screws holding chrome speedometer assembly (lower three – closest to rider). Remove gas cap, lift rear of assembly up over gas neck and then entire assembly forward. Replace gas cap.



    3) Moving to work bench, remove remaining four (4) screws holding speedometer assembly to chrome housing.



    4) Remove two (2) short silver screws – separate speedometer assembly from bracket.



    5) Remover two (2) long thin silver screws – reset switch wires




    6) Remove speedometer assembly from chrome housing.
    7) Remove two (2) black screws from wiring collar ring, push grey rubber seal through opening (free it from seal)



    8) Remove four (4) black screws, remove back of speedometer assembly.



    9) Remove four (4) black screws, white washers from speedometer assembly faceplate.




    10) Remove face plate, store in a non-abrasive area (soft plastic?)
    11) Remove two (2) small black screws from back of circuit board.

    Mark speedo needle motor




    12) Mark (magic marker) a stripe on speedometer needle motor
    13) Unsolder speedometer motor pins (8), I used solder wick, straighten tabs
    speedo needle unit

    digital display connections



    14) Unsolder digital readout pins (16) long row of pins in middle of board. Make sure pins are free, when they are, board will separate from display.
    15) Mark original LEDs on non-solder side ( I used a red marker – to make sure you don’t reuse the originals)
    16) Unsolder the seven (7) LEDs. I used a hot air station at work to remove mine, this was very simple. I also tested using solder wick, and this also works. The hot air is quick; using wick will take a bit longer but works. (a hot air soldering station costs about $600 – I do not own one)



    (Sorry, I did not get a good photo of LED’s on top side of board. They are small white squares, with corner notched for polarity. You can see by this photo where they are on the board.)

    17) Verify placement, note that the notch in the LED is placed where the triangle is printed on the circuit board.
    18) Use your soldering iron and flatten the solder at each LED trace to a smooth level.
    19) Using soldering iron, ‘tack’ the first side of the LED to the solder pool. Then solder the other side, go back to the first and resolder the first tack.
    20) When complete seven (7) LEDS replaced, put a towel or cardboard on tank, plug in unit and verify that LEDs work. If good, then reassemble unit in reverse order from disassembly.




    21) Solder digital display, needle motor.
    22) Faceplate, back plate so that speedometer assembly complete.
    23) Attach switch wires, bracket, and mount to housing. Reattach housing to tank, while making sure wires are properly routed.
    24) Test and verify operation.
    25) Ride bike, display cool new backlight when ever opportunity presents.


    NOTES:
    1) A soldering iron with a very SMALL tip is required for soldering the surface mount components. The standard radio shack 25 watt iron does not look like it will work very well. I have a 35 watt Weller with interchangeable tips and I used the smallest tip you can get for the surface mount components.
    2) A magnifying glass will be helpful. Checking the solder joints will require a magnifying glass and very good light. I’d suggest a combo unit, lighted magnifying glass. I used one at work, but a regular handheld magnifying glass and a mini-mag flashlight will work just fine.
    3) I am pretty sure this mod will void portions of warranty.
    4) I used Blue LED’s from DigiKey, part # 516-1464-1-ND.
    Part #’s: found on DigiKey catalog- Pg 2617
    http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T091/P2617.pdf
    BLUE LED’s: Digi Key # 516-1464-1-ND / Avago Technologies HSMN-A100-P00J1
    GREEN Digi Key # 516-1463-1-ND / Avago Technologies HSMM-A100-S00J1

    Rectangular Surface Mount LED’s
    SMD LEDs (3.2mm x 2.8mm)Standard PLCC Package
    3.20mm x 2.80mm 3.4v 30 ma 120 viewing angle $1.08 per unit

    I am sure other colors can be found at different sources. Here are some other sources to check:

    http://www.oznium.com/plcc-2

    http://www.newark.com/avago

    http://www.newark.com/jsp/content/printCatalog.jsp?cat=c126&page=1271&display=single

    http://www.led.net/markets/smt_index.htm

    http://www.ledtronics.com/products/ProductsDetails.aspx?WP=C397K1863

    http://www.bivar.com/pdf/04opto31.pdf



    TIME ESTIMATE:
    1) Housing removal (10 – 20 minutes)
    2) speedometer assembly removal ( 10 – 20 minutes)
    3) speedometer assembly disassembly / unsolder (20-30 minutes)
    4) LED removal replacement (30 – 45 minutes)
    5) speedometer assembly reassemble / solder (20-30 minutes)
    6) speedometer assembly replacement ( 10 – 20 minutes)
    7) Housing replacement (10 – 20 minutes)

    Total time estimate: between 1 hours to 3 hours





    ---------------------

    From Mort: Again I am not taking credit for this writeup, and it was given to me somewhat in secrecy... so... it's out there now. I say, if someone can improve upon it... DON'T keep that to yourself, hook the community up with knowledge.

    I plan to engineer this system into a model you can adjust intensity 'and' color, on the fly... but it will take time and research to do it right so it is environmentally protected etc. Also I'm working on a method to change the LCD backlights for you guys (like me) that have digital speedos.

    Happy modding, Mort
    Last edited by Mortikus; 12-22-2011 at 03:36 PM.

  5. #25
    Mortikus's Avatar
    Mortikus is offline Slayer of Chickens
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    Update for Gonzo...

    (well for everyone else, Gonz decided to put some faith in my work so he sent me his speedo... neat process)


    Chopp already pointed out my desk is messy... but wtf ever, lol I think messy desks are working desks... I'd show the whole shop, but not sure how much I post up on the web.


    ESD practices are a must... in one write up I saw the guy explain how to do this 'on his carpet'... oh boy.


    Here's the back opened up:


    These are those annoying pins...


    Then you can get them off... see the front side:


    They're flimsy little buggers!! (the brown is from flux, not burn lol)


    My let hand is not steady enough to take a non-blurry pic, but I have nice tweezer MetCal Talons to remove... much safer for the board as only need a few seconds to pull the LED off... two soldering irons is clumsy and one jumping back and for is simply amateur and asking for damage.


    All off, new boys on:


    Closer view of new LEDs... they are the white rectangle guys, the tops are a clear film


    Smart Honda put in test points! Great idea guys. A DMM's diode check provides plenty of voltage limited to check diodes.


    Putting the body back together is probably the most annoying part... all those flimsy lines have to be lined up individually with tweezers while not pushing too hard on the speedo needle motor... uggg...


    Then it was just covers again...

    It'll be in the mail on Monday Gonz, thanks for letting me experiment... annoying little project, but hope you like the new lights.

    Oh, one sad part... you sent me 1 green LED... well I guess you wanted it on one of the other LEDs, but they're all through hole and MUCH larger (refer to other pics), rather than the same size surface mount. So no go there. I'll find out what those bigger LEDs are and we can try again or simply enjoy the bluuuuuuuue.

    Mort

  6. #26
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    cool beans. i like it.

  7. #27
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    Who's next?

  8. #28
    rs42sport's Avatar
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    Me.....................................

  9. #29
    Eagle One's Avatar
    Eagle One is offline Senior Member
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    Would love to have orange LED backlight and a dimmer bright! Up for it Mortikus? What would cost be for your services?

  10. #30
    rs42sport's Avatar
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    i'd love to have green

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