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Thread: Install Triple Whammy

  1. #11
    Mondorah's Avatar
    Mondorah is online now Pie liker/Snow Hater
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryanbeam View Post
    thanks for posting a pic.
    always helpful
    i have a triple whammy plug and play kit i need to install.
    i've been nervous about it.
    looks simple though
    Very simple. You can do it BB!

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by hollywood64 View Post
    I installed the triple on my X and it was a fairly simple install. Just a couple of suggestions though. Take a look at the Honda wiring diagram. The colors that Kuryakyn gives in their instructions weren't right. At least for my bike. Have a good test light handy. Also, do NOT use the clamshell type wire taps they supply in the kit. In fact, don't ever use these on ANY wiring project. You are setting yourself up for problems with these. It's best to solder all connections and use heat shrink tube if possible or plenty of good quality electrical tape.
    The Triple Whammy is a great piece. You will like it. Makes a big difference in rear visibility.

    One more thing about the bolt. If you haven't got it out yet and still can't find it, it's probably stuck in that big wad of stainless steel wool at the end of the fuel return. I was really kinda surprised when I pulled my fuel pump assembly and saw this mass hanging off the end of it....lol
    I did pull the fuel pump and when I saw that brillo pad hanging on the end I was wondering what the heck that was... then I realized it was a strainer. The bolt I was looking for was laying in the tank directly under the hole for the pump... easy grab.... thanks for the tips about the clamshells... BG66

    Quote Originally Posted by hawkvtx View Post
    It's not that hard. You'll have to attach the connector for the ground but other than that everything else just plugs in. They are pretty well marked as to what line is in and out and which one is the brake and left and right turn signal.
    The wiring harness to everything on the rear comes up under the fender and through a hole then to the main wire harness under your side cover. The Triple whammy just plugs into it. Then just set the modulator for your blinking speed.

    It should look something like this when you're done. The orange connector you see is the supplied ground.

    That pic is really helpful. I am not afraid to tackle this because I know there is always good help a click away. Your description and pic is a great start - thanks.

  3. #13
    bryanbeam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mondorah View Post
    Very simple. You can do it BB!
    Thanks ray!!
    I'm gonna be busy this week
    Doing valves, fork springs, triple whammy, power block mod, and oil change

  4. #14
    Mondorah's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryanbeam View Post
    Thanks ray!!
    I'm gonna be busy this week
    Doing valves, fork springs, triple whammy, power block mod, and oil change
    Yeah ya are!

    When you put your timing cover back on, dab a very little bit of anti seize on the threads. I torqued mine to specs last time, and Bill and I broke the 17mm center of it. It twisted the nut in the center of the cover, but it didn't turn at all. Had to dremel a slot for a screwdriver and tap it with a mallet to get it off. Cover was $16 through Ronayers.com. also, use a six point socket instead of a twelve. Better grip, and you won't round it off if its tight.




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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mondorah View Post
    Yeah ya are!

    When you put your timing cover back on, dab a very little bit of anti seize on the threads. I torqued mine to specs last time, and Bill and I broke the 17mm center of it. It twisted the nut in the center of the cover, but it didn't turn at all. Had to dremel a slot for a screwdriver and tap it with a mallet to get it off. Cover was $16 through Ronayers.com. also, use a six point socket instead of a twelve. Better grip, and you won't round it off if its tight.




    Sent from Sasquatch's secret hideout using Tapatalk.
    thanks for the tips
    much appreciated!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigGuy66 View Post
    I did pull the fuel pump and when I saw that brillo pad hanging on the end I was wondering what the heck that was... then I realized it was a strainer. The bolt I was looking for was laying in the tank directly under the hole for the pump... easy grab.... thanks for the tips about the clamshells... BG66



    That pic is really helpful. I am not afraid to tackle this because I know there is always good help a click away. Your description and pic is a great start - thanks.
    No problemo. I couldn't do anything without the help from my friends I have made here on this forum either.

  7. #17
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    Lightbulb This may save you a little time

    I have been learning a ton here, reading for the last year or so. Thanks everyone. I hope this helps some one. 1st post, Newbe poster's instructions, please correct if needed.
    VERY EASY! Worth every penny, maybe my life.

    I believe you can safely do this mod easier than the instructions.
    If you are having problems especially a few years after installation see # 7


    1. Purchase the plug and play. For my VTX 1300 2004: Kit 4601

    2. Quick wire guide 2004 VTX 1300 C ( I believe all VTX 1300 and 1800 are the same, but check)


    Orange: Left turn
    Light Blue: Right turn
    Brown: Tail light. This is the wire Kuryakyn calls " imput tail light power wire", the one you attach the clam shell connector to.
    Green with yellow stripe: Brake
    Green: ground, leave these alone, you will ground to the frame.


    3. You can confirm wiring simply by unplugging one at a time and checking which function was lost. No need for a test light.
    For example unplug the Light Blue and your right turn signal stops.

    4. To separate connectors, hold the plastic insulator and pull hard on the wire coming out the wide end not the other end. I did know this DUH...

    5. You don't have to worry which is the input/ output side of the device or the motorcycle, if you have the plug and play version (mine was 4601). It can only be plugged in one way.

    6. The connectors snap tight. If you use the dielectric grease included you should have no problems. I like to solder, but didn't feel it was needed. And if the device should fail, I can plug back to stock in a few minutes.

    7. The "ground" that is shown in the photos and in all the videos (at least on my VTX C) may not be a reliable ground! With time and corrosion it is likely to fail.
    If you completely remove that bolt, you will see it does not thread into the frame, but threads into the battery/ electrical tray (battery ground does not attach to this tray). The bolt rests in a painted bushing portion of the frame. This portion of the bolt was well corroded on my bike. The paint in the frame bushing was completely intact as was the paint where the bolt pushes against the frame. Until the bolt was tightened down hard and the paint scratched a little with the ground spades there was no power.

    Easy solution is to sand off a little paint where the spade contacts the frame and coat the area and spades with dielectric grease. This should prevent rust too.


    Tim

  8. #18
    Mondorah's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing your info, Tim. Also, welcome to the Cafe.


    Ray

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