When you put your timing cover back on, dab a very little bit of anti seize on the threads. I torqued mine to specs last time, and Bill and I broke the 17mm center of it. It twisted the nut in the center of the cover, but it didn't turn at all. Had to dremel a slot for a screwdriver and tap it with a mallet to get it off. Cover was $16 through Ronayers.com. also, use a six point socket instead of a twelve. Better grip, and you won't round it off if its tight.
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I have been learning a ton here, reading for the last year or so. Thanks everyone. I hope this helps some one. 1st post, Newbe poster's instructions, please correct if needed.
VERY EASY! Worth every penny, maybe my life.
I believe you can safely do this mod easier than the instructions.
If you are having problems especially a few years after installation see # 7
1. Purchase the plug and play. For my VTX 1300 2004: Kit 4601
2. Quick wire guide 2004 VTX 1300 C ( I believe all VTX 1300 and 1800 are the same, but check)
Orange: Left turn
Light Blue: Right turn
Brown: Tail light. This is the wire Kuryakyn calls " imput tail light power wire", the one you attach the clam shell connector to.
Green with yellow stripe: Brake
Green: ground, leave these alone, you will ground to the frame.
3. You can confirm wiring simply by unplugging one at a time and checking which function was lost. No need for a test light.
For example unplug the Light Blue and your right turn signal stops.
4. To separate connectors, hold the plastic insulator and pull hard on the wire coming out the wide end not the other end. I did know this DUH...
5. You don't have to worry which is the input/ output side of the device or the motorcycle, if you have the plug and play version (mine was 4601). It can only be plugged in one way.
6. The connectors snap tight. If you use the dielectric grease included you should have no problems. I like to solder, but didn't feel it was needed. And if the device should fail, I can plug back to stock in a few minutes.
7. The "ground" that is shown in the photos and in all the videos (at least on my VTX C) may not be a reliable ground! With time and corrosion it is likely to fail.
If you completely remove that bolt, you will see it does not thread into the frame, but threads into the battery/ electrical tray (battery ground does not attach to this tray). The bolt rests in a painted bushing portion of the frame. This portion of the bolt was well corroded on my bike. The paint in the frame bushing was completely intact as was the paint where the bolt pushes against the frame. Until the bolt was tightened down hard and the paint scratched a little with the ground spades there was no power.
Easy solution is to sand off a little paint where the spade contacts the frame and coat the area and spades with dielectric grease. This should prevent rust too.
Thanks for sharing your info, Tim. Also, welcome to the Cafe.
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