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Install Triple Whammy

2K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  Mondorah 
#1 ·
Just got the Kury Triple Whammy today. Before I start this project, what do I need to know? At least there is no gas tank to drop a console bolt into!!! Yeah, I 'm the newbie that did that and had to take the tank off again and remove the fuel pump to get it back out. About that Triple Whammy - any problem spots on the 1800?
 
#4 ·
I installed the triple on my X and it was a fairly simple install. Just a couple of suggestions though. Take a look at the Honda wiring diagram. The colors that Kuryakyn gives in their instructions weren't right. At least for my bike. Have a good test light handy. Also, do NOT use the clamshell type wire taps they supply in the kit. In fact, don't ever use these on ANY wiring project. You are setting yourself up for problems with these. It's best to solder all connections and use heat shrink tube if possible or plenty of good quality electrical tape.
The Triple Whammy is a great piece. You will like it. Makes a big difference in rear visibility.

One more thing about the bolt. If you haven't got it out yet and still can't find it, it's probably stuck in that big wad of stainless steel wool at the end of the fuel return. I was really kinda surprised when I pulled my fuel pump assembly and saw this mass hanging off the end of it....lol
 
#6 ·
It's not that hard. You'll have to attach the connector for the ground but other than that everything else just plugs in. They are pretty well marked as to what line is in and out and which one is the brake and left and right turn signal.
The wiring harness to everything on the rear comes up under the fender and through a hole then to the main wire harness under your side cover. The Triple whammy just plugs into it. Then just set the modulator for your blinking speed.

It should look something like this when you're done. The orange connector you see is the supplied ground.

 
#7 ·
thanks for posting a pic.
always helpful
i have a triple whammy plug and play kit i need to install.
i've been nervous about it.
looks simple though
 
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#9 ·
I wrote up the 2006 1300VTX. I had never done an 1800 before. I also wired my brother's 2004 1300VTX. Was too long to remember how I did it. Glad to have others in the group here to help you.
 
#17 ·
This may save you a little time

I have been learning a ton here, reading for the last year or so. Thanks everyone. I hope this helps some one. 1st post, Newbe poster's instructions, please correct if needed.
VERY EASY! Worth every penny, maybe my life.

I believe you can safely do this mod easier than the instructions.
If you are having problems especially a few years after installation see # 7


1. Purchase the plug and play. For my VTX 1300 2004: Kit 4601

2. Quick wire guide 2004 VTX 1300 C ( I believe all VTX 1300 and 1800 are the same, but check)


Orange: Left turn
Light Blue: Right turn
Brown: Tail light. This is the wire Kuryakyn calls " imput tail light power wire", the one you attach the clam shell connector to.
Green with yellow stripe: Brake
Green: ground, leave these alone, you will ground to the frame.


3. You can confirm wiring simply by unplugging one at a time and checking which function was lost. No need for a test light.
For example unplug the Light Blue and your right turn signal stops.

4. To separate connectors, hold the plastic insulator and pull hard on the wire coming out the wide end not the other end. I did know this DUH...

5. You don't have to worry which is the input/ output side of the device or the motorcycle, if you have the plug and play version (mine was 4601). It can only be plugged in one way.

6. The connectors snap tight. If you use the dielectric grease included you should have no problems. I like to solder, but didn't feel it was needed. And if the device should fail, I can plug back to stock in a few minutes.

7. The "ground" that is shown in the photos and in all the videos (at least on my VTX C) may not be a reliable ground! With time and corrosion it is likely to fail.
If you completely remove that bolt, you will see it does not thread into the frame, but threads into the battery/ electrical tray (battery ground does not attach to this tray). The bolt rests in a painted bushing portion of the frame. This portion of the bolt was well corroded on my bike. The paint in the frame bushing was completely intact as was the paint where the bolt pushes against the frame. Until the bolt was tightened down hard and the paint scratched a little with the ground spades there was no power.

Easy solution is to sand off a little paint where the spade contacts the frame and coat the area and spades with dielectric grease. This should prevent rust too.


Tim
 
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