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Spark Plugs

4K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  Gunner53 
#1 ·
After installing the jet kit (and realizing how bad off it was before, plus having to use the choke/enricher before), I decided it wouldn't be a bad idea to change the spark plugs. Should be EASY right??? I went to my local auto parts store looking for the part number posted in the "answers to common questions" post:

Spark Plugs…..Stock are NGK DCPR6
They said the closest thing they can get is NGK DCPR6E (didn't even have those in stock, would have to order). They might be the same, then again they might not. I can't find a cross reference to any other brands. I could probably get them at the dealer, but they would be crazy high... and everything I have ever gotten there was ordered. Dealer doesn't keep ANYTHING in stock. Went to Wal-Mart and looked in the handy-dandy cross reference book they have hanging there... no VTX's listed under motorcycles. It had Goldwings and Shadows... but no VTX.

What spark plugs are you guys running?

 
#3 ·
I was just wondering the same thing; what plugs would fit my '03 1300R. This site might help. http://www.clubplug.net/champ_ngk.html

It might take a bit to scroll through and find your plugs, but they should be there.
 
#4 ·
I was hoping to find them locally so I wouldn't have to wait for shipping. It is looking like that may have been wishful thinking...lol. There are still a couple of places around here I will check.
 
#5 ·
The plugs in our bikes are like and the same quality as the ones you have in our car and are good for well over 100 k miles"
I have 30k on mine now and don't plan on changing them for we'll over 100k.
I use a small brass wire brush (looks like a tooth brush) sold in the welding dept. of home improvement stores.
Spray them with WD 40 brush them a coupe times , reset them. Keck mine were sutty black from over choking the bike before resetting ad I just cleaned them up and they are fine. I would not wast the money.
If the tip ever burns off or gets thin then I will change them.
Yea they don't cost that much but save your money.

Doug
.
 
#7 ·
Kevin -- Asking about spark plugs is like asking about your favorite oil, seat, exhaust, tires, etc etc. Lot of different views based on personal preferences. I liked the NGK DCPR6E's only I set them to .028 gap that was recommended in a "behind the counter" book published by NGK. That gap helped them stay pretty clean and the bike ran well. I decided to try out E3-36 plugs. For me they made a big difference I could actually feel in the ol' butt dyno. That was about two years ago. The E3's cover three heat ranges, cruising around up to super slab. I also like the fact that there's no gapping, they have a triangle shaped ground strap. Don't know if you ever get into indexing your plugs, but I'd think the unique ground strap of the E3 would be already indexed. I've probably got over 10K on these with continued good results. And as always with a subject like this -- JMHO.
 
#8 ·
I am in process of jetting... so I want to remove all the other variables to get a good tune. That is why I am looking to put new plugs in. Already put on a new air filter.

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#9 ·
Recently been down that road too: K&N filter in a decapped airbox, V&H Bigshots, 220 main jet, 58 slow jet, clip on the 4th, 1 turn out on the a/f. Using 87 reg gas with no ethanol. Running really good, so I'm not gonna touch it. If behaving/being smooth, I'm getting 43 - 45 MPG. Haven't made a long run on the super-slab yet to check gas mileage. And yes, I'm a Charlie D disciple - he's helped me a lot.
 
#11 ·
Ended up getting DCPR7E plugs. I am shooting for the fat side (tad rich) and these 1 degree cooler plugs will reduce the chance of fouling. Had nothing to do with the fact that there are no DCPR6E's in this whole stinkin' town!...lol.

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#12 · (Edited)
the cooler plugs will foul easier. the temp range of a plug refers to its temp. the hotter the plug the better its ability to clean the carbon deposits. the colder the plug is the harder it is to clean itself. you shouldnt aim for the richer side. just aim for what gives you the best power. this will be richer than stock. it will also give you a spark plug that looks like this



also autozone does not stock the ngk dcpr6e but advanced auto does.


the best way to tune is main jet first. find the main jet that gives you the most power at full throttle. one of the ways i have found to do this is in third gear run the bike until it hits the rev limiter. if the main jet is very small it rpms will stall before it hits the limiter. if its close it will be slow to climg to the limiter. the best main is the one that climbs to the limiter and hits it the fastest. then you have to set the needle. this one is easier. start on the 4th clip and take the bike out. start in 2nd gear and rip on it and let the rpms climb high. get a good feel for the power. try the 5th clip. and run the same test. if it has more power than your set if it has less go back to the 4th clip and add a #4 washer. test again. if its better the the 4th clip then leave it there. if its worse then set it on the 4th and leave it. now you have to set the slow jet and a/f screw combo. this takes some regular riding and cruising. its all about feel. go for a back road cruise and see how it feels. then set the a/f screw according to the instructions in the FP kit. if you feel you have a loss of torque while cruising try the 60 slow jet. and reset the a/f
 
#13 · (Edited)
Not the one here. Advance and Napa could order it, but none in stock. O'reillys only had 2 in stock.


the cooler plugs will foul easier
That sux... dude at Dickson Auto Parts straight up lied to me. Guess those are going back. Glad I haven't put them in yet.

you shouldnt aim for the richer side.
Yea, I know it's not optimum... but I have a birthday coming up in a couple of weeks, and the GF has been asking what I want. Been looking at these. THey require you to be a little rich to work properly (on the smaller kit... no injector. I just want the cute little blue flame :47b20s0:).

http://www.hotlicksexhaust.com/
 
#17 ·
That sux... dude at Dickson Auto Parts straight up lied to me.
That's the Difference Between Salesmen & Tech's.
Never trust salesmen for anything - other than handing you what was ordered.
Your dealing with Al Bundy at best. He didn't lie - he's simply clueless.

Taking old plug numbers from whats in any engine - Google the answers in advance.
Always arrive with loaded gun.
 
#15 ·
I got 4 NGKs with only a couple hundred miles on them that I'll send you. Can get them in the mail tomorrow. Just sittin' in my plastic box with other bike parts. Let me know.
 
#19 ·
I wanted to do a little research on the sparkplug temp thing, just to be sure I was clear on how it worked. Found a good explanation on the NGK website. I thought I would post it here in case anyone else was interested. The info on temperature is on page 2.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/p2.asp
 
#20 ·
Thanks for posting the link. Great info from NGK and when looking up the recommended plug (DCPR6E), it does recommend .028 gap. Just like I'd read in one of their pamplets at the parts dealer. I'll have to use their info to make sure my plugs (E3-36) are not getting too hot and are self-cleaning. Good data.
 
#22 ·
:cheers: Glad to help you out.
 
#25 ·
So what would be better as a gap, .028 or .031-.035 like my 2003 1300S manual calls for? I just replaced my plugs with NGK DCPR6Es and gapped them at .034. However, I don't mind pulling them again if I need to regap them. The pic below is what the old ones look like. Left to Right, Front to Rear, Top is Right Side, Bottom is Left Side.
 

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