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1300 Rear brake pad R&R Write-up with pics

104K views 100 replies 64 participants last post by  footprintsinconc 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I replaced my rear brake pads yesterday and figured while I was at it I would take some pics and do a quick write up.
It’s a fairly straight forward job that probably takes less than ½ hour provided you don’t have saddlebags to remove.

-----------------------------
Push the caliper all the way in toward the center of the wheel to compress the piston, and make room for the new, thicker pads.
Remove the plug that covers the pad pin and loosen the pad pin.
Remove the bracket pin bolt.
Pivot the caliper up away from the disc, and remove the pad pin and pads.
A vice grip C-clamp or similar tool can be used to gently compress the caliper piston further if needed, to make room for the new pads.
Slide the new pads in, seating them on the spring, and install the pad pin hand tight.
Pivot the caliper back down over the disc and into place. Making sure the ends of the pads seat correctly on the retainer.
Install the bracket pin bolt and torque to 17 ft/lbs.
Torque the pad pin to 13 ft/lbs.
Install the pad pin plug.
Pump the brake pedal to seat the caliper and pads.
That's it.
Ride Safe.
----------------------------- ORIGINAL INSTRUCTION RETAINED IN CASE SOMETHING IS MISSING IN THE NEW POST.

-John

Added in from Re-post with new images:

The pictures from my original thread have disappeared, and I have had several request for this thread so I have remade the original post.
Hope it helps.

It’s a fairly straight forward job that probably takes less than ½ hour provided you don’t have saddlebags to remove.

First, push the caliper all the way in toward the center of the wheel to compress the piston, and make room for the new, thicker pads.

Remove the plug that covers the pad pin and loosen the pad pin.









Remove the bracket pin bolt.



Pivot the caliper up away from the disc, and remove the pad pin and pads.










Clean all caliper and rotor parts well with brake cleaner spray.

A vice grip C-clamp or similar tool can be used to gently compress the caliper piston further if needed, to make room for the new pads.



Slide the new pads in, seating them on the spring, and install the pad pin hand tight.




Pivot the caliper back down over the disc and into place. Making sure the ends of the pads seat correctly on the retainer.




Lubricate the bracket pin bolt so that the caliper will slide easily, re-install the bolt and torque to 17 ft/lbs.



Torque the pad pin to 13 ft/lbs.



Install the pad pin plug. Torque to 2.2 ft/lbs.

Pump the brake pedal to seat the caliper and pads.

That's it.
Ride Safe.

-John
 
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#3 ·
Thanks Bass,
I think it took longer to do the post than it did to replace the pads, but I figure if it helps someone else it's well worth it. :cheers:
 
#4 ·
Nice write up! I had done brakes on cars tons of times, so brakes on a bike wasnt much different. But nice to have since there can be those "little details" that one might not know about.

Thanks!

-Gonz
 
#6 ·
nice only 2 things I have to offer is have a can of spray brake clean and some high-temp grease.

brake clean to remove the dust and build up on the calipers and to clean the rotor, and as per the book the lock pin on the caliper that holds the pads is supposed to have a light coating of high-temp grease on it to keep it from binding.
 
#7 ·
Thanks Charlie, good points.
 
#11 ·
thanks for taking the time to write it up! a picture is worth a 1000 words.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Jstar61 -

Great write-up and pictures, thanks.

In addition to jstar61's write-up, I'd like to add a few tips.

Brake Pad Replacement procedure

1.) - While replacing your pads, first crack the bleeder screw loose and just lightly snug it up.
2.) - Lightly clamp the brake hose off with a special hose-pincher tool or use needle-nose vise grips with the jaws wrapped in electrical tape.
3.) - Put a 12" long piece of vacuum or clear vinyl tubing on the bleeder screw and the open end into an old soda bottle.
4.) - Remove the caliper.
5.) - Open the bleeder screw about a half turn, then gently push the caliper piston back into its bore and bottom it out.
6.) - Close the bleeder screw.
NOTE - This keeps any "crud" that has accumulated in the brake system from being pushed back up into the Master Cylinder.
7.) - Since the caliper is off, spray the rotor down with brake cleaner and wipe it off with some rags or paper towels. Also, spray the caliper down from the inside out to remove any brake dust that has accumulated.
8.) - Install your pads, watching that you position the pads correctly in relation to the spring (anti-squeal) hardware
9.) - Lube the caliper mount pins where they come into contact with the rubber caliper mount boots with disk brake Silglyde (silicon-based, high temp lubrication that will not harm the rubber components - available at most CarQuest and NAPA stores). Do not put the lubricant on the mounting threads of the caliper mounting bolts!!!
10.) - Mount the caliper and torque the bolts to factory specs as provided in the service manual.
11.) - Remove your "hose clamp" and pump the lever or pedal several times to seat the pads.
12.) - Lightly apply pressure to the brake pedal and open the bleeder screw to squeeze out any air that may have entered.
NOTE - It's a good idea to flush the old brake fluid out every 2 to 4 years or 24k miles, any way.
13.) - Top off the fluid in the master cylinder and spray the area around (and in) the bleeder screw and master cylinder with brake cleaner and replace the little dust cap on the bleeder.
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the write up. I was 45 minutes into changing my rear brake pads and could not figure out why the new pads would not fit. Then, I noticed after loooking at your post, that my caliper was not pressed in.

After that, it was a breeze. (other than when I popped the brake pad spring out that goes inside the caliper assembly---looked at the service manual and put the spring back in)

Everythings back together now and I appreciate your write up.
 
#19 ·
I had 16,000 on them when I changed them. I could have gotten a few 1000 more, but I had the time so I went ahead and did them. I'm harder on my back pads, I guess because I tend to hit them first, just enough to activate my brake light when I am slowing.

Make sure to note the post by Charlie and Madness, as to a few things I missed.
 
#20 ·
I also tend to use the rear a bit more and did the first change at around 23,000 rear was gone and front had about 25% left, next set was around 48,000 and I did them with around 25% left on rear and 30% left on front.

I am on the 3rd set now and really don't like them went with an Italian brand that was recommended, they squeal a bit with light pressure but work well and are quiet with heavy use.
 
#25 ·
I am doing my brakes next weekend so this post had perfect timing. Thanks! What is everyone's brake pad recommendation? I have no idea what brand to get so any info would help alot. Also, am I right in assuming that they are available at an auto parts store?
 
#29 ·
Yes, That was my first set. I had my bike just over a year. All the dealers around me only stock aftermarket pads and I wanted to stick to OEM so I ordered from HDL, ended up a little cheaper that way anyway.
 
#27 ·
I got 14K out of my rear breaks, most likly because I rode on the dirt for so long, before the street. I now use the fronts at about a 70% to 30% for the rears. Also my rears were draging for a while.

I picked up my EBC breaks up on E-bay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EBC-FA174-HH-FA-174-Brake-Pads-R6-R1-CBR-600-RR-929-954_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35a48e4d23QQitemZ230394055971QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Brakes
Front = FA196
Back = FA174

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/d...ry_ID=24&manufacturer_ID=352&product_ID=13201
 
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