[Flying Hawaiian]

This is my story. www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php?t=30944
Okay, I'm whipped. I'm just making a mess of this bolt. I've drilled, dremeled, and pounded. Why are the bolts so soft yet unyeilding? Any suggestions. The last photo is how I want it to look. From the other side. The only thing I haven't tried is a diamond bit and carve it out. Messy. Afraid to ruin fork threads. I haven't riden in two weeks and I'm getting the shakes.
+ = ..........Help me.


Attached Thumbnails

Will this help me in the future, or is it the same crappy soft bolts?
Will it work on an 06 12300R?
ebay Item number: 190319841382

[jagarcia]

For me, I'd seek professional help. I don't know what your capabilities are (mechanically), but it sounds like you've done what you can reasonably do!

[STEELHOGG]

I know a lot of times that things look and sound easier on apaper but if it were me, I would try drilling straight into the head of the bolt (after center punching the exact middle) and then go for the asy out or step up to the next drill size till you can get an easy to work...if all else fails call the pros

[Flying Hawaiian]

Originally Posted by STEELHOGG I would try drilling straight into the head of the bolt (after center punching the exact middle) and then go for the asy out or step up to the next drill size till you can get an easy to work...if all else fails call the pros

It's just in a hard place to make absolutely certain I'm straight. Unless I take off the head to see better. I guess if I go slanted, it'll just cost me a fork. Not the end of the world, but I was trying to save money. I need a beer and a good night sleep. I'll read this in the morning.

[brem310]

I had an allen bolt refuse to come out of a caliper I was trying to rebuild. I carefully drilled dead center with a drill bit slightly larger than the diameter of the threads. Went a little at a time until just the head of the bolt would sepearate from the threaded part of the bolt, stopping before actually drilling into the threaded part. Once the head was gone the threaded part could be unscrewed with my fingers.

If that does not work you could still drill a small pilot hole and use an easy out.

[wanderingbear]

I'd put it back together and take it in and have a pro change that bolt and make sure the others are free to. You keep going and you'll be having big repair bills.

Originally Posted by Flying Hawaiian it'll just cost me a fork. Not the end of

How's $130.45 for that part grab ya!!!!!!!

[doug48317]

Professional help is a good call if your not sure, they will most likely do the same thing.

IMO... I would go buy a good quality set of easy outs and the right size bits. An easy out can be off center a little and still work. Once you have the hole drilled for the tool use "some" heat on both the bolt & into the threaded hole on the other side of the fork to aid in getting it to break loose. Then tap the easy out into the hole and give it a shot.

Worst case if it all goes to sh** you can do as you said and drill all the way through it in 2 stages 1st with a small pilot bit making sure its centered, then with a bit one size smaller then the bolt. Then taking it slow & easy run a oiled tap in and out from the back side where you still have good threads to start it.

Many might disagree with this idea & thats fine, but in my early years I couldn't afford professional help and if I didn't fix it... it didn't get fixed. I have done this trick many times over the years and it does work... The best tip I can give is when you start getting fustrated or angry "walk away" for a while then come back to it.
Good luck & hope it turns out well for you

Originally Posted by wanderingbear How's $130.45 for that part grab ya!!!!!!!

Hate to say it, but still cheaper than the pro's bill will be.

[Flying Hawaiian]

Well, Pro Grabit didn't work. All it did was break in the hole. Dremel diamond bit is my last chance. Or.....what?

[wanderingbear]

No offense but throw in the towel and seek help. It'll be cheaper in the long run and you can go riding instead of busting your hump on that bolt.

[STEELHOGG]

ok....I wasnt going to share this but I guess it's time. Anyone who works on this from here on out is going to fight it as you have so here is my last though.
At work when we have such an issue arise, we ALWAYS take a nut...that would fit the size of the bolt that you are working with and then we will tack weld the nut to the damaged head using a mig welder. After letting the nut cool...99% of the time we are able to twist out the damaged bolt by using a wrench or socket as per the nut size. This is not for the faint at heart...it is you bike and you have to ask yourself...what price do you want to pay?
What if it does cost you a fork either way? What do you have to lose and what is your time and peace of mind worth.
Good luck brother.

[wanderingbear]

I've done that too but didn't mention it beacuse of the difference in the surronding areas and the location of the bolt. He's having a terrble time and doesn't seem to ave alot of mechanical background or equiptment. As you know welding in that confined an area is trick. I didn't think this is was solution for him.

[Lone Rider]

Originally Posted by STEELHOGG ok....I wasnt going to share this but I guess it's time. Anyone who works on this from here on out is going to fight it as you have so here is my last though. At work when we have such an issue arise, we ALWAYS take a nut...that would fit the size of the bolt that you are working with and then we will tack weld the nut to the damaged head using a mig welder. After letting the nut cool...99% of the time we are able to twist out the damaged bolt by using a wrench or socket as per the nut size. This is not for the faint at heart...it is you bike and you have to ask yourself...what price do you want to pay? What if it does cost you a fork either way? What do you have to lose and what is your time and peace of mind worth. Good luck brother.

Originally Posted by wanderingbear I've done that too but didn't mention it beacuse of the difference in the surronding areas and the location of the bolt. He's having a terrble time and doesn't seem to ave alot of mechanical background or equiptment. As you know welding in that confined an area is trick. I didn't think this is was solution for him.

+1 Ditto

I can't tell from the picture if there is enough of the head left for this but, you could try tightening the bolt. Sometimes it's just enough force in the other direction to break the bolt free. Other than that, if you still have no luck and don't want to go to the pros... get a (good) metric tap set, drill the sucker out and tap it.

[BeefyBeefo]

Originally Posted by wanderingbear I've done that too but didn't mention it beacuse of the difference in the surronding areas and the location of the bolt. He's having a terrble time and doesn't seem to ave alot of mechanical background or equiptment. As you know welding in that confined an area is trick. I didn't think this is was solution for him.

His very words in his other thread... \/ \/ \/

Originally Posted by Flying Hawaiian I've not very mechanical.

Hawaiian, this is in no way meant to offend, because I wouldn't have messed with it this long personally.

I'm with WB on this one...

[Flying Hawaiian]

Yeah, guys. I'm calling my local bike shop to see how much it'll cost. Welding is something my son might be able to do if he wasn't so busy. But it's a tricky place. One last suggestion was to drill it from below to release pressure. Maybe up the size several times. It's a logjam at top with the broken Grabit there. I tried dremeling with a diamond point and was getting an ominous glow. I'll be back.

[Flying Hawaiian]

Okay. I took a day off to think about it. I thought of what I should of done and what I will do.
Some have said apply heat to break bond after rounding out pinch point bolt. One person said because the hole is aluminum and has a lower melting point, that's a bad idea. Any thoughts? Before I tried a big ez out, I should have made a slot with the dremel for screwdriver. I had so much mass drilled out by then that it didn't convey much torq. Then when the Grabit, another kind of ez out didn't work, I should have drilled with a slightly bigger drill until the head came off the threads. I think the bond is with the head. Then the Grabit, which is really made for "broken" bolts wouldn't have broken off as I applied more torq.
Here's what I'm gonna do. I'm not paying 2-3 hours labor. But my wife is tired of me spending all this time on the bike. So I'm ignoring the front fender for now, no matter how nasty it looks. I have new retro pipes to put on, clayton modding them, walmart lights to put on, buying fattie bars, chrome wrapping the clutch cable, (did throttle cables), find someone to help put on a new master cyclinder, (the mirror hole was torn out in the accident, but I don't know enuff about brakes and brake lines to try), figure out whether to paint stick or what to the tank, and THEN.....
When the bike's as good as I can do, I will either/and drive it around to bike shops and machine shops for a better deal, learn how to take off forks and bring only that to be drilled, find a cheap set on Ebay, or drill with a tiny drill from the back hole over time,until the front bolt head is hardly hanging on and punch it out from the back. With option three, I think I can still ride it, but continually watch for it to fall out from vibrations. I still think you can safely ride if one of these bolts did fall out. It's really a little overkill. It's not like I'm doing wheelies.

THOUGHTS OR SUGGESTIONS WELCOME. And thanks for all the previous help.

[wanderingbear]

Spend the $131 and get the new fork tube and quit messing around, if your not going to use that fender cut the bracket off and take the tube out. What you've created through lack of knowledge and not asking sooner is a snafu leading to a fubar. Just replace the scrap with new then you can play with that tube all you want without fear of messing it up. Get you butt back on the road.

[Lone Rider]

Originally Posted by wanderingbear "snafu leading to a fubar"

Oh, how I love it when someone can use my two favorite words in a sentence!!

[wanderingbear]

Hey it took some cafeful wording to get them in there. Glad you liked it, I know some are going,--------- Huh???? I love it.

[Lone Rider]

Originally Posted by wanderingbear Hey it took some cafeful wording to get them in there. Glad you liked it, I know some are going,--------- Huh???? I love it.

If they only knew, Bear... if they only knew!!

[Flying Hawaiian]

Originally Posted by wanderingbear Spend the $131 and get the new fork tube and quit messing around, if your not going to use that fender cut the bracket off and take the tube out. What you've created through lack of knowledge and not asking sooner is a snafu leading to a fubar. Just replace the scrap with new then you can play with that tube all you want without fear of messing it up. Get you butt back on the road.

Good suggestion. Let me get everything road worthy first, then I'll decide if I'll go that way. (Did want to keep fenders to sand up for eventual repainting.) Seems reasonable at this point. Cheaper than bike shop. Also I'll get some riding in first. The fender was purely cosmetics. And the damaged bolt doesn't harm anything for now.
Even if it's a SNAFUBAR - Situation Normal: All F*d Up Beyond All Repair/Recognition/Reason. Yes, you can combine them.

[RcBigAl]

Well, I figure I throw in my .02. Get a can of PB Blaster and spray the bolt every 15 min for a couple hours and every time you spray it put a center punch on it and give it a few wacks with a hammer to break it loose. after about 8 sprays/wacks then try to loosen it. PB Blaster is a miracle worker. Heat will help, use a propane torch not a welding torch and you should be fine. It might ugly up the fork though.
Good luck.

[Flying Hawaiian]

Close to the advice I got from a workmate who was in Army engineers. I may try it once I get the rest of the bike done. I'm done with this bolt for now, though I welcome more suggestions. Thanks.

[frostbite]

FOUND IT!! Saw this a while back, then couldn't remember where:
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm

Lots of tips and tricks.

[wanderingbear]

Originally Posted by frostbite FOUND IT!! Saw this a while back, then couldn't remember where: http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm Lots of tips and tricks.

Good article, I bookmarked it for future usage.

[frostbite]

Originally Posted by wanderingbear Good article, I bookmarked it for future usage.

GOOD! Next time I need it I'll call you!

[wanderingbear]

Originally Posted by frostbite GOOD! Next time I need it I'll call you!

Anytime pal anyime.

[Flying Hawaiian]

Originally Posted by frostbite FOUND IT!! Saw this a while back, then couldn't remember where: http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm Lots of tips and tricks.

That was a great article!! Should be a sticky reference. I bookmarked it too. Thanks.

[techhead]

Still trying to get this bolt out? What part of NJ are you from? With the ez-out broken off inside, gonna make it 100 times harder to get it out.

[Flying Hawaiian]

Yep, it'll be tuff. I'm gonna concentrate on some other bike work and get back to the bolt next week when I'm off. I live in New Egypt, near Great Adventure.

[Goldsmith]

Hey, not sure if it has been mentioned befor but here goes.

Cut a deep enough and wide enough groove parallel to the knurled grooves in the outside of the hex head for a flat head(large) screwdriver to fit in to. Put the blade of the screwdriver into the groove and hit the end of the screwdriver. What you are trying to do is turn the screw. Good luck. I know this is a pain in the ass!