02 1800c


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Thread: 02 1800c

  1. #1
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    02 1800c

    Got a scrubbing nose coming from rear end any ideas thanks

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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  4. #2
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    probably have to jack it up and roll the tire,brakes?just dont know lotta guy's on here better than me.best of luck

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  6. #3
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    Sorry,,, you MUST help us to understand what you are saying..

    50 moving parts... and nothing to pin point your issue..

    from brakes,, wheel bearings.. to shocks... to final drive... to rocks stuck in tire treads....

    riding down a gravel road... concrete.... up on a bike stand...

    URGENT HELP.. and 24 hours later.. nothing.

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  9. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by pop pop View Post
    probably have to jack it up and roll the tire,brakes?just dont know lotta guy's on here better than me.best of luck
    I've jacked it up hear it coming from in side the hub

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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  11. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver F View Post
    Sorry,,, you MUST help us to understand what you are saying..

    50 moving parts... and nothing to pin point your issue..

    from brakes,, wheel bearings.. to shocks... to final drive... to rocks stuck in tire treads....

    riding down a gravel road... concrete.... up on a bike stand...

    URGENT HELP.. and 24 hours later.. nothing.
    I can push it back an hear it definitely not brakes coming from inside hub

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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  13. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by twillistw.9 View Post
    I can push it back an hear it definitely not brakes coming from inside hub

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    my guess... flange bearings.... a common problem.. since 2002.. mine failed at 45,000 miles..
    its the flange assembly where the rear wheel connects to the final drive....
    you can just replace the bearings... or the flange assembly...

    remove the rear wheel... and rotate the flange bearings with your fingers..... easy.

    there is a link to download a service manual around here "FREE".... a great value..
    I have the Honda paper manual.. ordered it when I ordered the bike in 2005... ( NEW )..

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  15. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by twillistw.9 View Post
    I've jacked it up hear it coming from in side the hub

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    Flange bearings inside the hub have some failures. You're going to have to pull the back wheel assembly off and check it out. Failure of same is probably due to lack of periodic maintenance and use of Moly 77 paste. And pressure washing to drive water inside the hub.

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  17. #8
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    Here's a post about a Foots/Slapjack mod that, embedded within it, are photos and the pertinent details and inner workings of an 1800's rear wheel and its final driven-flange assembly. If one or more of your bearings are shot, then this is a 'step-by-step' guide on how to replace them. I realize that you still need to troubleshoot your issue further, but I totally agree with these fine gentlemen that it could be a bearing failure - so, just ignore the parts about the brake rotor as that doesn't apply here (that was the Slapjack part of the mod I did) - and simply focus on the info that's important to you... good luck, brother... I hope this helps you.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjklaser View Post
    Okay, folks… finally… here is the rest of my write-up on this Foots/Slapjack mod that I finished in June… maybe I’m posting too many pics, LOL, but this was supposed to be a detailed “how-to”, so here it goes…

    When I got the rotor back from machining, I did a fit-check on the 1800C wheel – bolts in but not tightened… my friend did a great job, exactly how I wanted it. I thought I took pictures of the modded rotor at the time, but couldn’t find them, so this pic is actually from when I was about to mount it (later in the process being detailed here):


    For completeness, I’ll repeat the first couple of steps posted earlier… when I got the very-low-miles 1800C wheel it was in amazing condition, but I still wanted to start with all new bearings, so here I am removing the old dust seal:


    Next, removing the old wheel bearings, rotor side shown (on the final driven-flange side, I didn’t take a pic):


    Then I went through the cleaning process, detailed earlier in this thread… here again, the cleaned wheel, rotor-side:


    The cleaned wheel, final driven-flange-side:


    I put the wheel bearings in freezer to shrink/contract them:


    Here I am gently and uniformly heating the rotor-side wheel bearing counterbore with an air-acetylene torch (lower temperature than oxy-acetylene) to expand the bore – Aluminum has a high CTE (coefficient of thermal expansion), so no need for very high temps:


    I used a bearing driver set to safely seat the rotor-side wheel bearing, keeping it ‘square’ to the bore:


    A little persuasion to drive it home:


    I had measured the bore depth and the bearing thickness at room temp beforehand, so here I am checking the set depth to verify that the bearing is properly seated:


    Flipped the wheel over and here I am inserting the long spacer (aka, “Distance Collar” in the service manual) from the driven-flange side:


    Expanding the bore for the flange-side wheel bearing with a little heat:


    Flange-side wheel bearing installed:


    With the wheel bearings installed, I am now ready to transfer all of the re-useable parts from my 1300R wheel over to the 1800C wheel. Here, I show all of the final driven-flange parts after disassembly and cleaning (with the new flange bearings in the foreground):


    Job one is to install the driven-flange bearings, so here I am gently and uniformly heating the flange (aka, “Final Driven Flange A” in the service manual) to expand the bore:


    Driving the first freezer-contracted flange bearing:


    Here are both flange bearings properly set:


    This is what the backside of flange-A looks like with the bearings installed:


    And again, now with the spacer (aka, “Distance Collar A” in the service manual) installed:


    Showing the bearing-side of flange-A with the spacer (distance collar-A) installed:


    Ready to start assembling the aluminum flange (aka, “Final Driven Flange B” in the service manual):


    I installed the flange-A assembly onto the flange-B studs:


    Tightened the flange/A-B assembly hex nuts (using a ‘star pattern’, with gradually increasing torque) to the service manual specified torque:


    Now, flipped the flange/A-B assembly over to show the backside:


    Here again, the wheel ready for the final driven flange/A-B assembly installation:


    First, install the neoprene(?) rubber dampers:


    Here’s a close-up of the installed dampers:


    Here’s the new o-ring for the final driven flange/A-B assembly-to-wheel ‘friction-fit’ – it goes in the o-ring gland on the wheel, and the bore on the backside of flange-A in the assembly slides over it:


    Installing the o-ring onto the wheel – that’s Moly60 paste:


    Ready for the final driven flange/A-B assembly:


    Also, some Moly60 paste on the bore of flange-A (backside view of flange/A-B assembly):


    Here, I’m installing the flange/A-B assembly (yes, I put the camera down to put it in straight):


    Flange/A-B assembly installed, nice and snug on the wheel… “like a glove”:


    Here’s a view with the retaining snap ring (aka, the “Stopper Ring” in the service manual) installed:


    Here’s the new flange-A o-ring… it goes into the o-ring gland under the splines:


    So, that was the last step to complete the transferral and re-assembly of the final driven-flange components onto the 1800C wheel. At that point, I took the wheels and new tires over to my local MC shop and had the Metzeler ME880 radials and new valve stems mounted. Then, got back to my garage with the wheels+tires and finished the job…


    As stated in Post #31, I went 0.018” larger on the I.D. of the rotor than the wheel’s rotor-side ‘hub’ or ‘collar’ feature that the rotor fits over. That means there should be a 0.009” gap between the rotor and this collar feature, all the way around, when the rotor is properly centered – so what you see here are three 0.010” Teflon (compressible) shims that I used to maintain concentricity between the rotor and this collar feature of the wheel, while tightening the rotor mounting bolts. I removed the shims after torquing all rotor bolts (using a ‘star pattern’, with gradually increasing torque) to the Service Manual spec (I used red thread locker on the bolt threads):


    Here’s a pic of the ‘finished product’ before installation on my bike:


    The requisite Moly60 paste on the final driven flange splines:


    The requisite Moly60 paste on the final-drive (ring gear shaft) splines of the gear case – the Moly60 color difference between the above pic and this one is due to lighting only – I used the flash to get this pic – the paste on the ‘male’ and ‘female’ splines is from the same tube at the same time:


    Here’s a pic taken after I fully installed the completed 1800C rear wheel (axle, 1300R caliper bracket, 1300R rotor, all service manual torque specs, etc., etc.):


    Here’s the (lovely) view from the rear of my bike:


    I’ll follow up at a little later time with my (by now) long-term impressions of how wonderfully this mod has performed in the curves and at highway (and up) speeds, but I’ll cut to the chase and tell you now… I really love it… it was worth every bit of the effort and money spent – and I think that you’ll be surprised at how little I had to spend to make this happen… I hope that you enjoyed the (lengthy) read!

    ‘laser (Mark)

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  19. #9
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    .^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    Way better then ANY service manual..... WAY BETTER...
    and

    Worth way more then anyone is Paying you....

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  21. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver F View Post
    .^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    Way better then ANY service manual..... WAY BETTER...
    and

    Worth way more then anyone is Paying you....
    Well, thank you kindly, sir! ...coming from a true motorcycle Guru like you, Chuck, that certainly means a lot to me!

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