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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver F View Post
    not difficult.. but required..
    Ahyar, the last thing anybody would want to do is deform a bearing seat counterbore in an aluminum wheel! That would totally suck, man.

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  4. #22
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    ...well... ...speaking of 'suck'... the last thing anybody would want to do, is miss out on a "threve"!


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    Quote Originally Posted by mjklaser View Post
    Ahyar, the last thing anybody would want to do is deform a bearing seat counterbore in an aluminum wheel! That would totally suck, man.
    < OLD NEWS >

    1984.. Honda did a recall on the 83 Wing... rear wheel bearing failure.. damaging the counterbore of the wheel.
    Honda fix.. send wheel to machine shop.. re-cut bore.. then press special steel ring/sleeve into wheel.. use new stock wheel bearings...

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  8. #24
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    ^^^ ...it only made sense next to my other post... Chuck, yer too fast!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mjklaser View Post
    ^^^ ...it only made sense next to my other post... Chuck, yer too fast!
    that would be a "FIRST" when I am not on my "F"....

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  12. #26
    Vinish is offline Super Moderator
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    Would putting the part in the oven to heat it be safer than using a torch to heat it? When I start a wheel bearing job, the first thing I do is put the races in the freezer. Okay, that is the 2nd thing. The first is to inspect the All Balls package to make sure all six parts are present since there was a spate of packages missing one of the dust seals a few years ago. Maybe using an oven on the part you want to expand and setting the oven to maybe 300-400 F would work well.

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  14. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vinish View Post
    Would putting the part in the oven to heat it be safer than using a torch to heat it? When I start a wheel bearing job, the first thing I do is put the races in the freezer. Okay, that is the 2nd thing. The first is to inspect the All Balls package to make sure all six parts are present since there was a spate of packages missing one of the dust seals a few years ago. Maybe using an oven on the part you want to expand and setting the oven to maybe 300-400 F would work well.
    sure... I would not go from room temperature to 400.. but in steps...

    item in oven.. set to 200... 10 minutes later 300.. ... aluminum is sensitive...

    wife will allow a plastic bag of parts in the freezer.. but the oven.. "NO"

    if interested... research the engine aluminum "piston"... was not easy to get there..

    I still remember the first "HOLED" engine piston... over active carb tuner.. aka no idea what he was doing..


    NOT MY PHOTO


    from a messed up carburetor

    YES, a water cooled motorcycle engine..

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    Quote Originally Posted by mjklaser View Post
    Using care and technique for uniform application of the heat, constant motion, slowly, gently heating... cannot be captured in a single photo... intelligence and patience are required...
    The difference between a professional, or a craftsman, and most of us back yard mekaniks.

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  18. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaXman11 View Post
    The difference between a professional, or a craftsman, and most of us back yard mekaniks.
    Iffin' a numbnutz like me can do eet, hell, then anybody can do eet... just care and patience appropriately applied...

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  20. #30
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    An oven is fine, the melting point of aluminum is 1200 deform temp is 600, personally I would just freeze the bearing then drive it in with an installer you can get them for 30 bucks.
    Your only talking about an inference fit of about .002 the bearing will shrink .0015 at 0* so you will just be tapping it in.
    I just changed the gears in my Chevelle along with all of the bearings and axle bearings, I only froze the bearing races and tapped them right in.

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