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Clutch switch (Will not start in gear)

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clutch switch
10K views 27 replies 14 participants last post by  ibified 
#1 ·
I can not get my VTX1300C to start/crank over when it is in gear with the kickstand up. The kickstand works because it will stall if I put it down when in gear. I tested the clutch switch and it works fine. The odd thing is that the power source for the switch (coming from the start relay) only give 10.5 volts. Is that normal? The battery is giving 12.2V and starts the bike fine if it is in neutral. It worked fine last year. The problem started when I took it out of storage this spring. Any help would be appreciated...Thanks
 
#2 ·
Does it even try to crank or make "clicking" noise or absoulutely nothing when you hit the switch. And the 10.5 Volts is not normal. You may try charging the battery. You could have gotten a dead cell over the winter storage. Did you have a battery tender on the battery while stored. A dead Cell in a battery can fool you when checking voltage, but you don't have enough amps to start. That being said you can start in neutral. You could try pulling the Clutch switch connector and using something to "short" across the 2 terminals to simulate the clutch pulled in. Just be sure to actually have the clutch pulled if in gear:D
 
#7 ·
The bike doesn't do anything at all when I try to start it in gear. The battery is fine. It starts strong when in neutral. I do have custom levers but I tested the swittch with an ohmmeter it turns on and off fine with the lever. For the heck of it I did jump the switch but no difference. I suspect the 10.5v source coming to the switch. There is also a diode in the circuit. Does anyone know how to test it.
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#9 ·
The bike doesn't do anything at all when I try to start it in gear. The battery is fine. It starts strong when in neutral. I do have custom levers but I tested the swittch with an ohmmeter it turns on and off fine with the lever. For the heck of it I did jump the switch but no difference. I suspect the 10.5v source coming to the switch. There is also a diode in the circuit. Does anyone know how to test it.
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I promise U its that little tab on it....hold the lever next to your stock one..its alot thicker and just a hair longer than the stock.....we had to try it (grinding it) several times before we got it...

Well I'll be...

I just experienced the same thing about 20 minutes ago. Went out for a quick spin and pulled over for a few minutes to smell the flowers. Hopped back on with the bike in first and pulled the lever in and... nothing! Just put Kury wides on last week. Gonna go get muh file out now :D

thanks!
hehhee....you were suppose to check that before you went riding...lol....
 
#8 ·
Well I'll be...

I just experienced the same thing about 20 minutes ago. Went out for a quick spin and pulled over for a few minutes to smell the flowers. Hopped back on with the bike in first and pulled the lever in and... nothing! Just put Kury wides on last week. Gonna go get muh file out now :D

thanks!
 
#11 ·
I've had there levers for years without any trouble. I don't want to grind them down without testing it first but I will take the switch out of the lever assembly and test it with nothing it the way. Thanks for the info.
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#12 ·
This morning I had the same problem, started my bike, went to leave for work and stopped to talk to a neighbor. Killed the engine but left it in gear. Went to start it again (kickstand up, clutch in) and nothing. No noise just like pushing the starter without a key in it. Don't know how long it's been like that but my controls are basically stock. Replaced handlebars and grips but levers are stock.
 
#14 ·
I do 100% agree with the others on the levers but,If you had the levers on for a while, I would take the switch apart and clean it. The di-electric grease could be contaminated (water, corrosion, lever lube) thus still making a contact when it should not be.
 
#17 ·
Problem solved!!!

Thanks for all the input. I finally got a chance to get back to working on the bike. It was the switch after all. I took it out and noticed that the switch "tit" was not sticking out very far. I tested it with an ohmmeter again with it out and it had no continuity while pushing it in and out. I tried to pull it apart and the "tit" popped out. It then had low resistance. I must have been hitting the lever with the meter probes while pulling the lever in. It is a tight spot. Next time I'll get help. Apparently 2 hands wasn't enough. I hooked it up and it started fine. I have one on order now. Hopefully it'll be back to normal within a week.
 
#18 ·
call me stupid, but unless you've stalled out somewhere, why would you want to start the bike in gear if goes to neutral just fine? i don't mean anything by this, i'm just curious is all.
 
#22 ·
It wouldn't normally be an issue but the bike stalled on me in cold weather as I pulled out into traffic the first time it happened. It took a few to figure out how to get it started again. I didn't like the feeling.

It never runs great in cold weather or if it isn't started just right. It seems to be a recurring theme about the carbs on these bikes. It runs perfect in ideal conditions so I am hesitant to rip off the carb and risk making it worse. At this point I think I will take my chances and pull it off because I do ride a lot in cool temps. I don't want that to happen again. At least for now though, I can get it restarted fast if I need to.
 
#23 ·
It wouldn't normally be an issue but the bike stalled on me in cold weather as I pulled out into traffic the first time it happened. It took a few to figure out how to get it started again. I didn't like the feeling.

It never runs great in cold weather or if it isn't started just right. It seems to be a recurring theme about the carbs on these bikes. It runs perfect in ideal conditions so I am hesitant to rip off the carb and risk making it worse. At this point I think I will take my chances and pull it off because I do ride a lot in cool temps. I don't want that to happen again. At least for now though, I can get it restarted fast if I need to.
You do not have to pull the carb all you need to do is adjust the A/F (pilot screw) open it 1/4 to 1/2 turn and you should be good to go.
 
#25 ·
Finally remembered to take another look at mine today. The kury wide levers hit the switch housing before the safety switch disengages. I could tilt the clutch perch but my mirrors are already adjusted all the way up so that is not an option. I'll file it down one of these days.

Whiskeyrockr, to answer your question... not only is is useful to be able to start in gear when stalled but I often park facing uphill and leave the bike in gear to keep it from rolling. Its just a convenience thing for me :cheers:
 
#26 ·
Back from the dead! What of those that have the switch and levers working properly? I did have to grind to get the switch to give proper resisrance open n closed.

Mine is still not starting in geAR and clutch in. Don't have the manual with me to find the end of the circuit. Anyone have an idea?
 
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