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The cons are that it takes some time and about $30 worth of stuff (dimpled block off plates). I suppose if you are a tree-hugger then another con is that you are hurting the environment slightly. The pros are that the bike will have less gurgling and popping when decelerating. You will also have more room to check and adjust the valve clearances which is a maintenance item that should be done on the scheduled mileage intervals.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The cons are that it takes some time and about $30 worth of stuff (dimpled block off plates). I suppose if you are a tree-hugger then another con is that you are hurting the environment slightly. The pros are that the bike will have less gurgling and popping when decelerating. You will also have more room to check and adjust the valve clearances which is a maintenance item that should be done on the scheduled mileage intervals.
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Thanks for the prompt response. Well I have the time and the $30. Although I don't notice any gurgling and/or popping, it is something I am considering.
 

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The cons are that it takes some time and about $30 worth of stuff (dimpled block off plates). I suppose if you are a tree-hugger then another con is that you are hurting the environment slightly. The pros are that the bike will have less gurgling and popping when decelerating. You will also have more room to check and adjust the valve clearances which is a maintenance item that should be done on the scheduled mileage intervals.
dimpled block off plates? I did the desmog on my '05 years ago and mine were smooth. I do notice a bit of a wood knocking sound that didn't exist before. Maybe that's why my acoustics changed slightly
 

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If you use the flat blockoff plates, then you have to remove something called the "reed valve" that is under each stock cover. Unfortunately, the reed valves are held in place by some sort of weird screw that cannot be unscrewed. Instead, this weird screw (I think it is brass), has to be broken loose from its position.
 
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If you use the flat blockoff plates, then you have to remove something called the "reed valve" that is under each stock cover. Unfortunately, the reed valves are held in place by some sort of weird screw that cannot be unscrewed. Instead, this weird screw (I think it is brass), has to be broken loose from its position.
Oh really? That's intriguing. Been so long I forgot the details of what I did, but I bet that reed valve is what is making the woody noise. Thanks for that bit of info. I need to check that out on my bike. About to put in new plugs and clutch anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh really? That's intriguing. Been so long I forgot the details of what I did, but I bet that reed valve is what is making the woody noise. Thanks for that bit of info. I need to check that out on my bike. About to put in new plugs and clutch anyway.
The video I watched show him removing the housing and just lifting the reed valve assembly off the top of the cylinder. The aforementioned screw held the valve to the rubber gasket assembly. He just unscrewed it - with a phillips- separated the valve from the gasket and used the gasket (with a coating of RTV) under the plate. Why not just plug the hose fittings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you use the flat blockoff plates, then you have to remove something called the "reed valve" that is under each stock cover. Unfortunately, the reed valves are held in place by some sort of weird screw that cannot be unscrewed. Instead, this weird screw (I think it is brass), has to be broken loose from its position.
The video I watched show him removing the housing and just lifting the reed valve assembly off the top of the cylinder. The aforementioned screw held the valve to the rubber gasket assembly. He just unscrewed it - with a phillips- separated the valve from the gasket and used the gasket (with a coating of RTV) under the plate. Why not just plug the hose fittings?
 

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The video I watched show him removing the housing and just lifting the reed valve assembly off the top of the cylinder. The aforementioned screw held the valve to the rubber gasket assembly. He just unscrewed it - with a phillips- separated the valve from the gasket and used the gasket (with a coating of RTV) under the plate. Why not just plug the hose fittings?
I just checked my box of removed parts and see that I drilled the head off the screw to disassemble the reed valve and replace the original gasket plate and then installed a new flat cover plate. So it appears I did it correctly. I don't know what causes the woody sound on my bike. So I guess you can't count this as a "con" for the OP.
 

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Leaving all the pair valve hoses and other "stuff" in place and only plugging the hose ends leaves a place for water to condense and run back into the engine. In addition, one of the benefits of the pair mod is the removal of all of this junk on the top of the engine which makes the periodic valve clearance job easier.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I believe you misunderstood me. Remove all the hoses and such, but rubber cap the pair valves. My real question for this post is: "Is it worth going through this mod? Has anyone realized more power, better gas mileage, smoother running, etc.?"
 

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Capping the stock pair valve covers would be better than leaving the hoses in place and capping the hoses. Still, this would leave a little more space for water to condense since the stock caps have somewhat of a dome-like shape whereas the dimpled blockoff plates would minimize any unnecessary space. In addition, rubber deteriorates over time so you would be adding a maintenance item (rubber caps) to check and, periodically, replace.

There is no fuel mileage or power to be gained from this mod. I have already listed the two benefits above in post #2 under the "pros". After doing the periodical valve clearance adjustment only once, you will be happy that you removed the pair valve system.
 
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I believe you misunderstood me. Remove all the hoses and such, but rubber cap the pair valves. My real question for this post is: "Is it worth going through this mod? Has anyone realized more power, better gas mileage, smoother running, etc.?"
If that is your objective, NO, you will NOT get any better power, mileage, or smoother running. The main gain is the clean look on top of the engine. And about 2# weight reduction. The dimpled plates have a small indentation for the head of that screw to fit, rather than remove it. Saves a couple minutes when removing all the junk. Same price, so why not?
 
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From ID, GO VANDALS!
2005 VTX 1800N Spec 1
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On my 1800N I did this mod along with the VTXexhaust.com exhaust mod and the Cobra Fi management system. I did the exhaust mod first and was getting a lot of deacceleration popping in my exhaust. The De-Smog/Pair valve mod helped with that popping, but what ultimately made it go completely away was the Cobra Fi system.

This mod does make servicing the valves easier as it created extra free space on the top of the heads for getting into the valve train for adjusting. If, I had chosen to leave the bike exhaust stock, I would have left the all of the smog/pair valve stuff intact, as it all worked with the factory exhaust. But I wanted a little more grumble. I don't regret it.

Ride Safe!
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I would like to thank all that replied and put up with me though out this post. I believe I will do the mod in the very near future. Safe riding to all.
 
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