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Darksider
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Ok...let me preface this by saying I'm also upgrading the fork lowers to chromed units from Stump. But I did have a leaking seal so why not upgrade. :coffee:

And I'd like to warn that I kept the pics bigger for details. If they need to be smaller let me know.

This is what I've got to change out on the bike. New fork lowers, new fork seals and a chromed kick stand which I'll cover later.



Tools I used..
M6 and M8 T-handled allen wrenchs
12mm, 14mm, 17mm & 22mm 6point sockets
3/8 racket
Small and medium flat head screw driver
Hook pick
Locktite-blue tube medium strength
2 cheap 13x9 aluminum cake pans
Bungee cords
Newspapers for laying the forks and internals on
Plenty of shop towels. This is a messing job.
Brake cleaner
32oz bottle of fork oil...10w or 15w your preferance
Cheap plastic measuring cup. At least 20oz size.

First thing I recommend is to break loose the front wheel(22mm), the pinch bolts(6mm allen) and break loose the two 12mm front brake caliper mount bolts from the forks.

Once that's done, if you have a windshield that mounts to the forks you'll need to remove that.

Now jack the bike up and secure it on a stand.



Once you have it up and secure, remove the brake completely from the wheel, securing it to the right side footpeg or anywhere out of the way with bungee cords.


Remove the wheel by pulling the axle out the left side, but make sure you're holding the wheel. ;)

Now, with the M6 allen wrench loosen the top triple tree pinch bolt just a little bit. You're gonna leave the lower one tight for right now.

Take the 17mm socket and remove the fork cap. It's under some pressure from the spring. Have a shop rag handy when you pull the spacer, washer and spring out. They will drip quite a bit of oil. Do this to both forks.


Now that the springs are out you can take the M6 T-handle and remove the center bolt and washer through the hole in the bottom of the fork lower. Make sure you have one of the cake pans under the fork you're working on. Removing this bolt drains the fork.


Be sure to get the copper washer with the bolt. I did have one stay in the fork, but the pick got it out to be cleaned and reused.


Once both forks are done draining for the most part you can loosen the lower triple tree pinch bolt(m8) and slide each fork out carefully.

Take one fork, stand it on it'd lower end and take the smallest flat head or pick and gently pry the dust seal up and slide it off the fork. If undamaged it can be reused after a light cleaning.

And I'd highly recommend working on one fork at a time just to keep the parts on the same side they came off of.


Now to remove the retaining ring. I used the smallest flat head I had to pop one side of the ring out of the retaining groove.


Once the retaining ring is out, grasp the lower fork in one hand and the upper fork(slider) in the other hand. With quick pulling motions pull the two apart.

Once apart slide the old seal up off the slider


Slide the guide bushing up with the flat washer.


Now, here's a big tip I learned doing this. You need a special tool according to the service manual...nah...not really.

When you take the forks apart the guide bushing expands back and is a bear to put back in without said tool. But, the easy and much cheaper way is to buy new guide bushings.

Honda part #51414-krc-003 $22 at my dealer vs $70+ for the tool.

This is the forks completely apart. Labeled in order from bottom to top. Reverse the number order for reinstallation.


Now, since it's all apart and you have a bundle of parts laid out it's time to clean them with some brake cleaner.

Once all the parts are clean, drop the Oil lock piece closed end down into the fork lower. Or like me drop the piston ring and rebound spring down into the fork slider and then slide the oil lock piece onto it to keep it on alignment.

Slide the slider with the piston ring and oil lock piece back into the fork lower. Add some lock tight to the center bolt and reinstall it. This locks the two pieces together.

Once you're here you can reinstall the guide bushings. I slide them down as far as I could by hand then put the thick washer back on top to drive the bushing back into the fork with a flathead or chisel. Careful not to dent/scratch the slider tube.

Once the bushing is flush with the lip leave the washer in and you may now install the new fork seal.

I got the Leak Proof Classics part #7247..J&P part #zz23193

Coat the seal with some new fork oil and slide it into the fork per the instructions of which ever brand you get.

I used the rounded part of the pick to push the seal all the way in, placed the new seal washer over it and reinstalled the retaining spring.

Clean up the dust seal and reinstall it. Congrats, you've done one side of the seal install.

Once you've got the other one done, reinstall the forks onto the bike.

I dropped the spring and washer in each side, then refilled each side with 15.5 oz of oil..more or less changed the ride...less makes it softer and more makes it firmer.

Just a small tip to reinstalling the fork cap. Have a helper gently pull the lower fork down a bit as you reinstall the cap to help make things alot easier than you trying to press down and turn the cap at once.:cheers:

Once you have both forks reinstalled and refilled reinstall the front wheel and brake in reverse order of the removal.

This is the front end back together with the chromed lowers and the new front Undertake mocked up. I ran outta weekend to do the write ups on it and the HID light. I'll do those my next days off.:choppersm

 

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Thanks Toasted! NOW STOP with all of the shiney stuff......PLEASE. Oh, and when did you grow a boob and start painting your nails? LOL
 

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Darksider
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Toasted! NOW STOP with all of the shiney stuff......PLEASE. Oh, and when did you grow a boob and start painting your nails? LOL

That happened sometime last week...accident at work caused it. :p
 

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Great write-up Joe. Can't wait to see pics of it back together with the chrome.
 

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Great write up Toasted, thanks.
 

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Verynice...looks great. Just curious, where did you get the fork seals they don't look like Honda, are they better .
 

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Darksider
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Discussion Starter #13
Verynice...looks great. Just curious, where did you get the fork seals they don't look like Honda, are they better .

I got the Leak Proof Classics part #7247..J&P part #zz23193
 

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did you rechrome your oid forks or buythem already cromed. If you dont mind me asking where did you have them done and at what price
 

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Thanks for the how to my left seal is leaking, if you still look at this thread and if u dont mind i would like a little more info on how to get past using the special tool, thanks in advance i just got my 02 1800c last week
 

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Write ups like this have helped me plenty of times already, thank you!
hey off topic but kinda on.... The saddle bags in the second pic... Where can I find some like them. I really like the look.
 

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Hello all!
Getting ready to tackle replacing the fork seals on my 2005 1300c. Can't find a mechanic in my area that will do it for less than $400; so I hit a sale and got a jack, seals, and fork oil.
My question... does anyone have a 1300c maintenance manual they can send, or tell me where to download? I'm mechanically inclined but have never done a lot of M/C overhauling, just general maintenance. Any helpful hints or tricks would be appreciated.

BnD aka "Shorti"
 
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