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There has been a lot of discussion of the "Wobble" on the VTX. Well, I had the wobble and decided to fix it once and for all. I replaced my stock tires with Metzler 880's. It helped a bit. However, not all the way. The next step is the steering bearing replacement.
Here is my write-up for the process. I must give a great amount of credit to Catoma (Chuck) for his experience with his own bearing R&R a couple of weeks before. He custom made the tools for the top stem nut removal and tools for re-seating the bearing races. You will see them in the pictures. I really could not have done it without him. He is a great guy. Thank you.
Now for the stats:
Cost: Bearings - about $31 + shipping
Moly Bearing Grease - $7
Steering Nut Lock Washer - $7 (didn't really need)
Time: 4 1/2 hours including driving to shop to press on new bearings on steering stem.
Special Tools: Service Manual
Steering Stem Nut Removal Tool (Catoma made one)
Bearing Race Removal Punch (Catoma made one)
Bearing Race Installation Tool (Catoma made one)
Lightweight pull scale. We used one for fish.
Torque Wrench
Normal set of metric tools and allen key sockets
Bike Lift
Here are the bearings:
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I wanted to take a lot of pictures to show the routing of brake lines, clutch cable routing, etc. I found this very valuable when putting things back together.
Throttle cable:
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Cable routing:
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More cable routing:
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Clutch and turn signal:
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OK, enough cable routing, let's get to removing stuff:
Lift the bike and remove the front fender, front brake caliper, and front tire. We let the brake caliper hang until we removed the brake control lever later.
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Axel and spacer:
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Front forks with the brake hanging:
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Remove headlight screws:
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Pull out assembly and disconnect headlight. It can be kind of tough. Then unbolt the headlight housing and remove.
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Headlight removed. You will need to disconnect the green, orange, and blue wires in order to remove the turn signals later. They are quick connect and pretty easy.
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Remove Handelbar
Remove clutch holder:
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Remove turn signal housing:
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Remove brake holder:
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Remove throttle screws. We didn't have to take the assembly completely apart; just enough to slide off the bar. There is a small notch in the handlebars that keep the throttle assembly from twisting. Once you loosen the screws you can split the housing. This will enable you to slide the throttle off once the handlebar is detached from the tree.
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Handlebar bolts:
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Handelbars removed. After removing the turn signal housing and the handlebar bolts we lifted the handelbar off the trees and ended up sliding the throttle off the end of the bar. That way we only had to loosen the throttle and not take is apart. It slid right off.
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Front fork removal:
Loosen both turn signals. You can remove them if you want. We just loosened them up and they slid off the forks.
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Measuring the top of the forks. Mine were 5mm. Loosen the upper and lower tripple tree pinch bolts. The forks slide down fairly easily.
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Forks removed:
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Remove the steering stem nut and lift off the top bridge of the tripple tree. You will see the top steering nut.
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Take a small screw driver and bend down the two tabs for the steering nut lock washer. The lock washer comes off fairly easily.
![]()
This is the steering stem nut removal socket that Catoma made. It doesn't look anything like a normal socket and it would be very difficult to do this job without this tool.
![]()
Steering stem nut removal:
![]()
Steering stem nut removal. When we removed the nut the entire steering stem dropped on the floor. No damage done but it was kind of embarrassing.
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Remove the upper bearing:
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Slide down and punch out the lower bearing race:
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Knocking out the lower bearing race:
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Knocking out the upper bearing race:
![]()
Old bearings, races, and steering stem with lower bearing race still attached. The original bearings really do look cheaply made compared to the new taper bearings.
![]()
We elected to grind off the lower bearing race. Here is Catoma at work:
![]()
Lower bearing race and dust seal after careful grinding:
![]()
Off to the shop to press the new lower bearing onto the steering stem. We packed the bearing with moly grease. This stuff is really good and really nasty to get off.
![]()
New bearing and dust seal:
![]()
We used the old bearing for the press directly on top of the new bearing. This ensured a good fit and no offset between the press and the new bearing.
![]()
A hand made tube for pressing the bearing over the stem:
![]()
Catoma pressing the bearing:
![]()
We drove back to my garage and now had to assemble the rest of the bike. The next tricky part would be to install the new races into the steering head.
Race installation tool that Catoma made along with the new race and dust seal:
![]()
It fits perfectly with the new lower race:
![]()
Fitting the lower race:
![]()
Tapping in the lower race:
![]()
Lower race installed:
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Switching out the size to install the upper race
![]()
Upper bearing race:
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Tapping down the upper race:
![]()
Upper race installed:
![]()
Insert the steering stem from the bottom. Install the upper bearing. Don't forget the dust seal:
![]()
Now we need to replace the steering stem nut:
![]()
The book calls for a torque of 15 ft-lb. Then move the steering assembly back and forth to help seat the bearings. Loosen the nut, re-torque to 15 ft-lb and do this again. The bearings felt tight at first but loosened up considerably with more turning.
Install the lock washer to align its bended tabs with the grooves in the adjustment nut.
Install the lock nut and fingert tighten all the way.
Further tighten the lock nut, within 90 degrees, to align its grooves witht he tabs of the lock washer. Bend up the lock washer tabs into the grooves of the lock nut.
Install the top bridge, washer and stem nut.
Temporarily install the fork legs into the bottom and top bridges.
Tighten the stem nut.
Torque: 103 N-m (10.5 kgf-m, 76 lbf-ft)
Remove the fork legs. Make sure the steering stem moves smoothly, without play or binding.
Install the lower and upper fork covers with the four bolts.
Install the fork legs, handlebar holders, cables guides, turn signals, headlight assembly. Remember to connect the turn signals.
Install the handlebars and front wheel.
Next you will do the steering bearing pre-load test. Hook a spring scale to the fork tube between the fork top and bottom bridges. Pull the spring scale at a right angle to the steering stem. Read the scale at the point where the steering stem just starts to move.
You should have between 1.8 and 2.6 lbs. If the reading isn't between these values, readjust the steering bearing adjustment.
I am glad I took pictures of the cable routing so I could refer to them.There are a lot of bolts (fork pinch bolts, turn signal bolts, throttle, brake, turn signal, clutch, handlebar bolts, headlight assembly, brake caliper, front fairing, front wheel, lower fork pinch bolts, etc.) so take your time and double check. The front brake will need a couple of good applications before you take it out for a ride.
Results: Fantastic. Turning is much smoother and lighter to the touch. So far, no wobble.
I really enjoyed this project. Working with Catoma was great. I hope this write up helps and gives you a good idea of what is involved in a steering bearing replacement.
The end.
--Please let me know if this can be edited and corrected, or if I should just add on another post onto the thread.
Thanks,
Rich
Here is my write-up for the process. I must give a great amount of credit to Catoma (Chuck) for his experience with his own bearing R&R a couple of weeks before. He custom made the tools for the top stem nut removal and tools for re-seating the bearing races. You will see them in the pictures. I really could not have done it without him. He is a great guy. Thank you.
Now for the stats:
Cost: Bearings - about $31 + shipping
Moly Bearing Grease - $7
Steering Nut Lock Washer - $7 (didn't really need)
Time: 4 1/2 hours including driving to shop to press on new bearings on steering stem.
Special Tools: Service Manual
Steering Stem Nut Removal Tool (Catoma made one)
Bearing Race Removal Punch (Catoma made one)
Bearing Race Installation Tool (Catoma made one)
Lightweight pull scale. We used one for fish.
Torque Wrench
Normal set of metric tools and allen key sockets
Bike Lift
Here are the bearings:
I wanted to take a lot of pictures to show the routing of brake lines, clutch cable routing, etc. I found this very valuable when putting things back together.
Throttle cable:
Cable routing:
More cable routing:
Clutch and turn signal:
OK, enough cable routing, let's get to removing stuff:
Lift the bike and remove the front fender, front brake caliper, and front tire. We let the brake caliper hang until we removed the brake control lever later.
Axel and spacer:
Front forks with the brake hanging:
Remove headlight screws:
Pull out assembly and disconnect headlight. It can be kind of tough. Then unbolt the headlight housing and remove.
Headlight removed. You will need to disconnect the green, orange, and blue wires in order to remove the turn signals later. They are quick connect and pretty easy.
Remove Handelbar
Remove clutch holder:
Remove turn signal housing:
Remove brake holder:
Remove throttle screws. We didn't have to take the assembly completely apart; just enough to slide off the bar. There is a small notch in the handlebars that keep the throttle assembly from twisting. Once you loosen the screws you can split the housing. This will enable you to slide the throttle off once the handlebar is detached from the tree.
Handlebar bolts:
Handelbars removed. After removing the turn signal housing and the handlebar bolts we lifted the handelbar off the trees and ended up sliding the throttle off the end of the bar. That way we only had to loosen the throttle and not take is apart. It slid right off.
Front fork removal:
Loosen both turn signals. You can remove them if you want. We just loosened them up and they slid off the forks.
Measuring the top of the forks. Mine were 5mm. Loosen the upper and lower tripple tree pinch bolts. The forks slide down fairly easily.
Forks removed:
Remove the steering stem nut and lift off the top bridge of the tripple tree. You will see the top steering nut.
Take a small screw driver and bend down the two tabs for the steering nut lock washer. The lock washer comes off fairly easily.
This is the steering stem nut removal socket that Catoma made. It doesn't look anything like a normal socket and it would be very difficult to do this job without this tool.
Steering stem nut removal:
Steering stem nut removal. When we removed the nut the entire steering stem dropped on the floor. No damage done but it was kind of embarrassing.
Remove the upper bearing:
Slide down and punch out the lower bearing race:
Knocking out the lower bearing race:
Knocking out the upper bearing race:
Old bearings, races, and steering stem with lower bearing race still attached. The original bearings really do look cheaply made compared to the new taper bearings.
We elected to grind off the lower bearing race. Here is Catoma at work:
Lower bearing race and dust seal after careful grinding:
Off to the shop to press the new lower bearing onto the steering stem. We packed the bearing with moly grease. This stuff is really good and really nasty to get off.
New bearing and dust seal:
We used the old bearing for the press directly on top of the new bearing. This ensured a good fit and no offset between the press and the new bearing.
A hand made tube for pressing the bearing over the stem:
Catoma pressing the bearing:
We drove back to my garage and now had to assemble the rest of the bike. The next tricky part would be to install the new races into the steering head.
Race installation tool that Catoma made along with the new race and dust seal:
It fits perfectly with the new lower race:
Fitting the lower race:
Tapping in the lower race:
Lower race installed:
Switching out the size to install the upper race
Upper bearing race:
Tapping down the upper race:
Upper race installed:
Insert the steering stem from the bottom. Install the upper bearing. Don't forget the dust seal:
Now we need to replace the steering stem nut:
The book calls for a torque of 15 ft-lb. Then move the steering assembly back and forth to help seat the bearings. Loosen the nut, re-torque to 15 ft-lb and do this again. The bearings felt tight at first but loosened up considerably with more turning.
Install the lock washer to align its bended tabs with the grooves in the adjustment nut.
Install the lock nut and fingert tighten all the way.
Further tighten the lock nut, within 90 degrees, to align its grooves witht he tabs of the lock washer. Bend up the lock washer tabs into the grooves of the lock nut.
Install the top bridge, washer and stem nut.
Temporarily install the fork legs into the bottom and top bridges.
Tighten the stem nut.
Torque: 103 N-m (10.5 kgf-m, 76 lbf-ft)
Remove the fork legs. Make sure the steering stem moves smoothly, without play or binding.
Install the lower and upper fork covers with the four bolts.
Install the fork legs, handlebar holders, cables guides, turn signals, headlight assembly. Remember to connect the turn signals.
Install the handlebars and front wheel.
Next you will do the steering bearing pre-load test. Hook a spring scale to the fork tube between the fork top and bottom bridges. Pull the spring scale at a right angle to the steering stem. Read the scale at the point where the steering stem just starts to move.
You should have between 1.8 and 2.6 lbs. If the reading isn't between these values, readjust the steering bearing adjustment.
I am glad I took pictures of the cable routing so I could refer to them.There are a lot of bolts (fork pinch bolts, turn signal bolts, throttle, brake, turn signal, clutch, handlebar bolts, headlight assembly, brake caliper, front fairing, front wheel, lower fork pinch bolts, etc.) so take your time and double check. The front brake will need a couple of good applications before you take it out for a ride.
Results: Fantastic. Turning is much smoother and lighter to the touch. So far, no wobble.
I really enjoyed this project. Working with Catoma was great. I hope this write up helps and gives you a good idea of what is involved in a steering bearing replacement.
The end.
--Please let me know if this can be edited and corrected, or if I should just add on another post onto the thread.
Thanks,
Rich
atriot:
