I was riding fine. Stopped. Get back on to go again but the DANG thing won't turn over. I checked the fuses, battery is fully charged, I checked the 9 pin harness in headlight housing and it shows hot. I checked the solenoid and it seems fine and now I'm lost. ANY SUGGESTIONS???
With the key on, does the headlight go out when you hit the starter button. They have been known to "melt' a little but are an e-z fix. Is it in neutral?
How did you check the battery, for 12 Volts? It can show correct volts, but have a weak cell or 2 and not have enough KICK, or amps, to turn it over. Take the fully charged battery to somewhere like Napa, Advanced Auto, Auto Zone, or ?? and have it 100 AMP load tested.
I'm still at a loss. I've done the starter switch clean. I've changed the spark plugs. New battery. I've checked the selanoid and starter but I cannot figure this out. Could it be fuel? It sounds very strong trying to start but its almost like the fuel is not flowing. I smell fuel with the plugs out but it won't start. Any suggestions? This is very frustrating. Please help.
So I just bought an 03 vtx 1800 and it currently does not start. All the lights work. The fuses have been checked. Fuel pump runs when the kill switch is flipped and the key is on. However nothing after that. I can hear a tiny singular click that comes from the starter solenoid. Brand new battery. Bike started and ran 3 months ago I was told. Bike seems like it was well taken care of so I feel pretty certain the previous owner kept up on everything very well
The click means your start switch is good, it is sending the signal to the solenoid. The solenoids on the 1800 have a fairly high failure rate and likely that is the problem. A weak battery is often the root cause of the solenoid going bad, the lack of voltage causes the contacts to not close smartly, they bounce, arc, sometimes weld together, or make no contact at all.
The way to test everything is to short the contact terminals of the relay and see if that turns over the motor. If it does then you know the relay is bad. You hear the click so you know it is getting triggered from the start switch but the contacts are not closing, you just simulated them closing by shorting the relay output terminals.
If the starter will not turnover shorting the terminals, then the battery could be weak or not charged, the battery connections may not be tight, or very unlikely the starter could be bad.
Here is a video on a 1300 that shows all of that, only difference is location on 1800.
The first place for you to look is in the starter circuit. I would start by determining if the starter motor is working properly. To do this, put the bike in neutral, double check that it is in neutral, remove any person, thing, or animal of value from in front of bike, and then triple check that it is in neutral. After all of this, locate the solenoid and use a wrench or large screwdriver to jump/bridge between the two main electrical connections to the solenoid. If the starter motor is working properly, this will cause the starter motor to turn which will then cause the engine to turn. The bike will not start because you do not have any of the electrical system turned on (kill switch, start button, key, etc.). Do this and then report back your results.
PaXman11, correct me please if I am mistaken.... I suspect that he leaves the kill switch on 100% of the time. He uses the ignition/key to turn the bike on, waits a second for the fuel pump to prime, and then presses the start button to engage the starter solenoid, starter motor, and fire up the bike. There is nothing at all wrong with this approach just like there is nothing wrong with using the kill switch in combination with the ignition/key.
PotaY-toes, potaH-toes. I did NOT say it was wrong. You do what you like. I have never seen the need to make something more difficult or time consuming than needed.
Yes, work backwards from the starter motor. It seems to be working correctly so try putting 12v power to the appropriate signal post on the solenoid (not the big two main posts on the solenoid) and see if this causes the starter to turn.
Some more info. I took apart the kill switch housing and quickly gave it a little tlc, removed a bunch of debris, lightly cleaned off the contact points and slightly stretched the spring underneath the kill switch contact. Put it all back together and no change. Then managed to test if the solenoid was getting power and then sending power to the starter. It seems there is no power leaving the starter. So I believe this means a bad solenoid correct?
The thing about this that's weird is on all the pictures of people showing their solenoids in the forums and such, they all have the yellow/red wire on the left post and the green one on the right. However it is the opposite on mine so I don't know if the person before put them on backwards or it's just opposite on my particular bike? I did try to swap them to how I have seen them and nothing changed. So would I put the power to the post with the yellow wire or the one attached to the green?
Yes, it sounds like your solenoid is bad. It should make no difference which trigger terminals on the solenoid holds the +12 v signal and which holds the ground. The electromagnet inside the solenoid will trigger with either connection arrangement. Just make sure you ONLY have one wire on each of the trigger posts of the solenoid.
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