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Hi all - my very reliable machine is having a problem. I went to take a ride last night and the bike turned over fine but wouldn't fire. Tried a few times, then put the choke in. It fired over for a split second but then just kept cranking. Battery seemed to be weak so I put it on the charger overnight, but still wouldn't start today. I'm not sure if it's related to putting leads on it the other night for a battery tender but even with a full charge on the batter today it just doesn't fire up. I have a full tank of fuel, the kill switch is in the on position, the fuel shutoff I've moved from on to reserve, so all that checks. Last summer the bike did something similar and there was a tiny rubber hose to the fuel shutoff that had come off, but that all looks in order right now. Any help on what to check next is appreciated.
 

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It sounds like a lack of fuel. This is usually caused by a lack of vacuum to operate the petcock. Check all the vacuum hoses for proper attachment and cracking. A disconnected hose or bad cracking anywhere in the vacuum system will prevent the necessary vacuum at the petcock and, hence, no fuel flow.
 

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Thanks - I could smell fuel when I was cranking and I took the air filter out - there's fuel on the inside of the cover. I actually thought it might be flooding somehow. I checked the vacuum lines and they look in order.
 

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With the air filter out when you crack the throttle do you see a stream of fuel? If not I bet your petcock failed, mine did the same thing this spring
 

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I did see the stream of fuel when I crack the throttle. And I think I just found the problem. I see a green wire broken just before it goes into the ECM over the battery. Is it safe to pull the broken piece out of the ECM and solder it back on the broken end of the wire (maybe with an extension)?
240652
 

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I did see the stream of fuel when I crack the throttle. And I think I just found the problem. I see a green wire broken just before it goes into the ECM over the battery. Is it safe to pull the broken piece out of the ECM and solder it back on the broken end of the wire (maybe with an extension)? View attachment 240652
That’s precisely how I’d do it. Remove the connector from the ECM, release the locking tab for that pin and remove it from the connector, strip a lil bit from each end, add a short bit of bare wire, twisted tightly to each end, solder and heat shrink the Union, return the pin to the connector...u get the idea


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Releasing the pins is very possible but requires use of a long needle and knowledge of exactly where to insert the needle to release the pin. Each pin in each connector type is a little different. I have never messed with the pins going into the ECM so I cannot help you. Once you do get the pin properly released, it comes out easily but you have to keep the pressure on the release tab while you are pulling the pin out.

If you cannot get the pin released, is there enough wire sticking out of the ECM to solder on an extension wire?
 
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Thanks - I think I will try to strip and solder what's there first before I try to mess with the ECM. I have a feeling it might make things worse if I try extracting that wire at this point.
 

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Any updates ? Im curious how it worked out. Im also thinking why that wire would keep the bike from starting. Take pics of your progress please and leave details on what you did to fix it. I want to learn from this so when i have a loose or broken wire to the ECM i will know how to fix it. And i had the same problem as you but there was not a broken wire. The engine would turn over but not fire. It ended up being the petcock diaphragm and i fixed the vent hose the very end of it was split. Has not happend since. Now i have a new tiny problem LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Any updates ?
Well I stripped the wire at both ends but am afraid to solder it for fear of heating up the ECM. Not sure I feel good about disconnecting the ECM either as I've heard the pin connections are fragile. So I'm planning on calling the dealer tomorrow to see what they would charge to fix it. I have done a lot of automotive repairs, but I want to be sure this is fixed right (I could try to fix it but I definitely don't want to make the situation worse or do a poor job and end up stranded someplace if it breaks again. If only Honda didn't make this connector such a pain in the backside!
 

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Nix on the dealer. You can disconnect the entire male pin connector from the ECM. This is the connector into which ALL of the wires going to the ECM connect via pins. This would separate the ECM from the wire/pin on which you will be soldering and hence, no worry about damaging the ECM.
 
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9c1 i would do what Vinish says hes knows his stuff , unless you just have allot of extra money. Me i do all the work on my bike myself unless i just dont have the machines like breaking tire beads and certain big engine jobs. If you need further decription on how to work on this wire just ask people , they will help. Also you can look on youtube or rumble for videos on it , just type in some key words. Many times i learn from videos and its not even a vtx thats being worked on , but whats the difference if its an ecm on a vtx or not with a broken wire, get it?So there are options
 

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This isn’t so difficult, but please remember to install some heat shrink to the longer wire before I you add heat/solder. Try to keep the heat shrink far enough away that heat from the soldering iron doesn’t shrink the tubing prematurely. Wait for the iron to be fully hot...test it by touching it with the solder, it should melt rather instantly. Having twisted the wires tightly together (sometimes a challenge with so little wire to handle,) touch the iron to the bottom side of the twisted wires, using the freshly melted solder on the tip of the iron readily transfers its heat into the wires. Now touch the solder to the wires close to the iron and move it solder stock along the twist as it absorbs into the union. Remove the iron, wait for the union to cool prior to moving the heat shrink over it, use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing.

PS: IF you decide to remove the pin from the connector, I always bend the locking tab back outwards just a tad, just in case I may have flattened it too much during removal.


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That wire and the black one being too short are known issues. I think its those two. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Black one is 12v and green is ignition pulse generator. You can find the tool and the connectors in the link below if you wanna do it professionally. You'll find many threads about this ecm wire fix with a search too.

 
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