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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got glens permanent a/f screw in but I don't think I have it dialed in quite right. I have it at two and half turns out from what I believed was lightly seated. Now at take off when I first start the bike it bogs down a bit then runs fine, even on a stone cold engine. I've tried to adjust some more but can't hit the sweet spot. Should I turn it in more or out?
 

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If it bogs, turn it out (counterclockwise). 1/4 turn intervals - not to exceed 4 intervals. If you go too far, it will fall out. If 3 1/2 turns out doesn't do it, you may need 1 washer under the needle. Are you completely stock on exhaust and airbox?
 

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I got glens permanent a/f screw in but I don't think I have it dialed in quite right. I have it at two and half turns out from what I believed was lightly seated. Now at take off when I first start the bike it bogs down a bit then runs fine, even on a stone cold engine. I've tried to adjust some more but can't hit the sweet spot. Should I turn it in more or out?
we need more info here, are you runing stock exhaust , air box, pilot and main jet...but 2-1/2 mostly i good enough , probably you need to turn the idle up a litle since it bog just at the start, thats my opinion , i am not mecanic. :)
 

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Now at take off when I first start the bike it bogs down a bit then runs fine, even on a stone cold engine. I've tried to adjust some more but can't hit the sweet spot. Should I turn it in more or out?
I had the exact same issue.
At just above idle, my X would nose over, sputter a bit (or bog) and then after it revved a bit higher, it would run strong.

I will confess that I am not a carb expert, but I did study the issue in previous posts on this site. I cannot find the link now, but someone recommended turning the A/F screw in a bit to lean the mixture. This fixed my bog-off-idle problem.

When I installed my Glen's permanent A/F screw, I started at the requisite 2.5 turns out. When I noticed the bog, I turned it in (clockwise) in two separate 1/8 turn increments.

The first 1/8 turn-in yielded some improvement, so I added another 1/8 turn-in. No more bog.

You might want to run the screw back in until it lightly seats, then turn out to 2.5, and then back in 1/8 or 1/4 turn. See if that helps.

From what others have written, the A/F screw only affects the low RPM circuit. If yours is bogging at low RPMs, adding a shim may not help.
 

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After some thought - maybe Dan has a better idea. In retrospect, it is not a good idea to start turning the AF screw out when you don't know where you are simply because it may fall out. Increasing the idle speed slightly is also a good idea. 900 rpm will sound just slightly fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry about the lack of info. Stock airbox, and samson cannon exhaust (No baffles). I have not done anything to the carb (Scar, jets, etcs..havent touched it). It'll bog down for just a second then run strong. Ill try up'ing the rpms, I actually turned it down just a bit because it sounded like it was running fast after I put the pipes on
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well Ive been running around town toying with it, and I seem to have an improvement. 3 turns on the a/f and I increased the idle a hair, doesnt seem to bog on take-off, but Ill see what it does in the morning when the engine is cold
 

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Well Ive been running around town toying with it, and I seem to have an improvement. 3 turns on the a/f and I increased the idle a hair, doesnt seem to bog on take-off, but Ill see what it does in the morning when the engine is cold
Thanks for posting this info since I have had the same problem for awhile. I installed Glen's a/f adjusting tool as well and just went with the recommended 2.5 turns. Looking forward to your post after tomorrow so I can adjust my as well. :patriot:
 

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Well Ive been running around town toying with it, and I seem to have an improvement. 3 turns on the a/f and I increased the idle a hair, doesnt seem to bog on take-off, but Ill see what it does in the morning when the engine is cold
You are not set correct.

Go for a ride get the engine up to full temp takes about 10 miles.

Now put in neutral blip the throttle
If idle speed drops below your set idle you are rich turn in 1/4 and blip again.

If the idle hangs up stays high then drops you are lean and need to turn out.

Now I know you aren't set correct because of your elevation, most at sea level to around 1000 ft elevation only need around 1 7/8 to 2 1/4 turns open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You are not set correct.

Go for a ride get the engine up to full temp takes about 10 miles.

Now put in neutral blip the throttle
If idle speed drops below your set idle you are rich turn in 1/4 and blip again.

If the idle hangs up stays high then drops you are lean and need to turn out.

Now I know you aren't set correct because of your elevation, most at sea level to around 1000 ft elevation only need around 1 7/8 to 2 1/4 turns open.
Engine was at full temp, I probably had 30+ miles on when I tried to fine tune it. But Ill try your suggestion tomorrow. I usually run around 4-6000 ft in elevation. And about every weekend I take a ride thru the mountains which range from 7200, to 11,000 ft. Should I be closer to 2 1/2 turns then?
 

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Engine was at full temp, I probably had 30+ miles on when I tried to fine tune it. But Ill try your suggestion tomorrow. I usually run around 4-6000 ft in elevation. And about every weekend I take a ride thru the mountains which range from 7200, to 11,000 ft. Should I be closer to 2 1/2 turns then?
I would say closer the 1 3/4 maybe a bit less

Stock would be 1 1/2 then they turn in about 1/2 for elevations above 4000 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
wow Im really off then:icon_eek: Im sure its been asked before but since I have this thread going already, what is considered "lightly seated"? I turned it all the way in, or to the point where I thought it was hard to turn anymore then backed out to the 2 1/2 turns as per glens instructions. Should I keep turning til it stops or will this damage something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Alright thanks for the help Charlie! I owe ya one:cheers:
 

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I just looked in the manual and 6500 is high elevation and would be turned in the 1/2 turn.

I would still set for the idle drop then when you want to hit the higher passes you can pull over and adjust a bit for them.

I was running 2 1/4 at 800 foot elevation on mine with the 55 pilot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Alright, I got lost in the number of turns and the bike was running terrible, finally the whole screw came out:banghead: I got extremely lucky though and found the spring laying on the engine block along with the washer and grommet. Put it all back together lightly seated and set it at 1 3/4 turns. So far so good. I may turn it out another 1/4 turn. Bike doesn't bog and it seems to run smoother at highway speeds but maybe that part is just in my head
 
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