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Discussion Starter #1
It was a beast to get out. It seemed as if someone used some lock tight on it or maybe it was corroded in. Any way it’s out but before I put the new screw in I want to re-tap it and clean up the threads. The new screw won’t go in anyway. So I know it is a 6 mm screw but I cant tell what the thread pitch is. I know it is either 6 x .5 or a 6 x .75. Any help would save me a bunch of cash. I don’t want to buy a new carb body if I can ovoid it.
Wes
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the help. I fired off a message and meanwhile i was able to find both the tools on amazon and get them both on order. The shipping is going to be more than the tools themself. I also found where I can find a new carb if it come to it without having to go to a dealer. Pricy but i shutter to think what the dealer would charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mine was tight and I sprayed mine with WD40 after I got mine out.

Doug:patriot:
I tried that. I think there was some corrosion in there. It wouldn’t budge at all in either direction. I got my taps in the mail today. Just need to drop by Sears and get a gage to measure the threads on the new A/F screw and a magnifying glass so I can see. The eyes just don’t see little things anymore. I’ll have her together tonight or I’ll be buying a new carb for Christmas.
 

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I tried that. I think there was some corrosion in there. It wouldn’t budge at all in either direction. I got my taps in the mail today. Just need to drop by Sears and get a gage to measure the threads on the new A/F screw and a magnifying glass so I can see. The eyes just don’t see little things anymore. I’ll have her together tonight or I’ll be buying a new carb for Christmas.
Careful not mess up the seat surface with a tap, meaning don't crank that tap all the way in or you will mar the surface the needle seats on...
 

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You all just wait!! lol

Donut/Doug
:patriot:
I guess your right Doug. ;) Not everybody operates on our hours, do they? :cheers:

I just got home from work a couple hours ago. Still wide awake wanting to go out to the garage and finish a project. Can't though. :(
I'd wake up all them night time sleepers. :rolleyes:


:D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ya its done. Got it all back together last night. It runs even. Its going to be a while before I can tune it. There is still a bunch of ice around. If anyone is curious it is a 6mm x .50 screw. I needed my kids to make the comparison. I dont know if im am out of the woods for having to buy a new carb or not. I only get about 3 turns and the Screw will fall out. I think the next task is replacing those crush gaskets. The step i skipped when I got the pipes. It really pops and sputters on decel and ive already pulled the PAIR sys out.

Thanks for the help


Wes
 

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a Honda 58 pilot would be just as good, no? I am a little bit past 2 1/2 turns on Glens Perma A/F and worry a little bit about the chance of it falling out:(
 

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a Honda 58 pilot would be just as good, no? I am a little bit past 2 1/2 turns on Glens Perma A/F and worry a little bit about the chance of it falling out:(
You'll be fine up to 2-3/4'ish, for piece of mind you could always zip tie the cable to your idle adjuster. Then if by chance it did fall out you'd only need the spring, washer & O-ring, lol
(I'm running the FP needle on the #4 notch, 215 main and the 58 pilot @ 1-7/8)
 

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You'll be fine up to 2-3/4'ish, for piece of mind you could always zip tie the cable to your idle adjuster. Then if by chance it did fall out you'd only need the spring, washer & O-ring, lol
(I'm running the FP needle on the #4 notch, 215 main and the 58 pilot @ 1-7/8)
Thanks for your input Doug, i think i will zip the two together until i put in a larger pilot screw, either a 58 or a 60. I might be at the 2 3/4 limit now with the temperature usually in the 30s.
Bry :patriot:
 

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I would recommend going with Glenn's Permanent Mount A/F screw. You will be able to see at a glance if it falls out, plus you can adjust it without removing the tank etc. Only 40 bucks shipping included. It was the best way to go for me anyway.
 
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