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Airbox decapitation how-to....

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Boz50

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#141 ·
Quite a post man. I am getting ready to decap my airbox this weekend, I already have the tank removed and the airbox is sitting beside me on the table just waiting for my Dremel tool. I noticed that you talked about the SCAR mod and how the carb needed to be adjusted after completion. Will I need to do any adjustments after decapping the box alone? I still have to order my parts for the PAIR mod and get the shims for the SCAR so I'm not quite ready to do it all. I know I will have to adjust them per the instructions on the other mods but I wanted to make sure it was rideable until I finish the others. Thanks a lot for letting us learn by your mistakes. You da man. Peace.
 
V

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#142 ·
If you decap the airbox, then you really should rejet the carb or, at lest, do the Scar mod. The bike is lean from the factory and decapping makes it even leaner which is not good. It will run hot and be even harder to start than a normal stock bike.

G'day,

Vinish
 
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Donut

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#144 ·
When decapping it is a good ides to go to the K&N filter wich lets in more air and is waterproof. Also don't let the decapping bother you because it is done way at the top of the airbox under the tank. I have ridden in many hours in downpours and flooding 1' foot across the road. Mist from rain won't even cause sputtering.
Decapping is even better than drilling a bunch of holes because the holes are drilled much lower and will never draw as much air as decapping. (The only way to go). (Thanks Bill for comming up with the Decap years ago).

Donut/Doug
 
T

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#145 ·
I have read through every page of this and just want to make sure I understand it. I don't have to rejet with this mod right? My Glens permanent A/F adjuster should be here on Tuesday and I got some washers for the scar mod so I am thinking about doing the decap while I'm in there.
 
Baker6x6

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#146 ·
titanium2007r said:
I have read through every page of this and just want to make sure I understand it. I don't have to rejet with this mod right? My Glens permanent A/F adjuster should be here on Tuesday and I got some washers for the scar mod so I am thinking about doing the decap while I'm in there.
Click to expand...
I just decapped mine, though I didn't go as far to remove the front wall that goes up under the tank. I probably would have if I still had the Cobra Longs on it.
The seat and tank is easy enough to remove (for me). and I'm not going in there much anyway.
I have Glens AF screw but haven't installed it yet.
I did the scar mod using a .023 thick #4 brass washer (my radio shack didn't have the ones listed here), and it's running just great.
NO rejetting is necessary if you have stock pipes, or quiet baffles.
 
M

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#148 ·
Well...I'm assuming this would work on a VTX 1800...??? But I want to be sure before I get the tools out tomorrow...Thanks
 
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BLACKHAWK1

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#150 ·
Does anyone have a part number for the K&N air filter? I ordered one from Amazon and my air box cover will not close competely. If I make it work my filter will crimp. Also the groove cutouts In the air filter will not line up with the air box. I have a 2007 1300 C. Thank for the help.
 
Badmunky

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#152 ·
I am about to order a K&N filter for my 1300R so I can do the decap mod. I have a question.
Is the filter for the 1300 and the 1800 the same?
I ask because I found a deal on a filter for $40 but its listed as fitting the 1800.

Thanks!
 
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GvilleDave

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#154 ·
So I've read through the whole thread and really appreciate the great info. At this point, I'm planning the Airbox Decapitation and will rejet and tune the carb as suggested in the thread. I have Cobra Speedster long exhausts on already with everything else stock. Right now I'm having to use the choke to get started and warmed up, which I'm guessing is showing I'm tuned lean already. Based on my cobra exhaust and the decap mod which carb tuning kit do I need? My bike is a 2005 VTX 1300R. I'm also getting some decel popping on occasion so I'll probably do the pair valve mod as well. Thanks!
 
FRNKCAT

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#156 ·
The "Factory Pro" stage 3 kit is the easiest one to tune, everything lines up very well...

Do yourself a favor and get Glens Permanent A/F tool at the same time. Will save you hours and hours of taking tank off to set A/F ratio when tuning... Life saver...
http://www.glensvtxgarage.com/

When everything is delivered and your ready to start, follow these directions on HOW TO tune it correctly.....
http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php/45937-carb-and-what-affects-what

I wasted many hrs and stressed myself badly before I went this route and did it right!!!!





.
 
V

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#158 ·
PowerSax said:
Definitely do the pair valve.
As far as the tuning kit, everything I read here says use the DJ stage 3 kit. It's been cheapest on Amazon .com for a long time now!
Click to expand...
Is it possible that you mistyped your response? The strong consensus on the VTX Cafe is that the Dynojet carb jet kits are .... let's say... not good (as Bassdude has already mentioned) and that Factory Pro jet kits are optimum. You would be hard-pressed to find many DJ kit supporters here on the Cafe. I'm sure you can find a couple but the vast majority not only espouse the FP kits but recommend that if you have installed a DJ kit, replacing it with a FP kit.

G'day,

Vinish
 
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GvilleDave

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#159 ·
So I've pulled the trigger on: K&N filter, Glen's Permanent AF adjuster, pair valve covers, stage 3 kit from a Factory Pro and plan to tackle the whole enchilada this weekend if the parts arrive. Thanks for the help and advice!
 
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