I was cruisin down a local road .. about 20mph .. let go of my bars to adjust my helmet, all was fine .. sped up a bit to get on an on-ramp was going about 40 and let go of the bars to get a buck out of my pocket .. bike wanted to throw me .. front wheel started going crazy.
Wheel out of balance?
I've got the bearings, just waiting for the tech session at Bully's in VA at the end of the month.
I've owned Yami, Honda's, etc.....Never had one that didn't wobble when I let go. I always figured it had to do with the air hitting the windshield. Nice ride btw.....being I have the same year and color as yours I'm a little predjudice...LOL
i had the all balls bearings put in at around 20k, it was fine till around 35k and i started noticing the wobble again. it seems as if everyone who's had the wobble, replaced bearings, have been okay, seems as if i'm the exception.
Like others the tapered bearings did fix mine but that's not to say that an adjustment will never be needed. I've had to tighten it down a bit once since installing mine.
Most sport bikes have steering dampers as the less trail you have the more the tendency to wig wag when you let goo of the bars. This is usually not a problem with the grater rake angles on cruisers. The verticle twins used to come with a knob on the steering head that you could tighten to prevent that tank slapping thing. Make sure that your bearings have been properly tightened. When first installed sometimes they have too much grease and when that squishes out the bearing are too loose. If it is the bearilngs, once tightened properly this should not be a problem. Windshilds can casue this as well, simply take yours off to see.
i'll have to wait on the appropriate time for that. i had to have the job done since i'm not that advanced mechanically, besides not having room or the tools. but yes, i had read before that perhaps an retightening or adjustment would probably do that trick. thank you and jbs89 both for the help. i was referring more to the fact that most people get it done and that's it. i guess i sounded a little whimpy and a victim. didn't mean that my any means, again thanks guys. bless, ride safe :choppersm atriot:
I have just started to notice the same issue around 40 mph on my 2007 1300 with 10,800 miles. Can anyone suggest a post or link on how to replace the bearing? Also, somwe suggestions on what bearing to buy?
I've had the wobble from day one when I rode it home bran new. Here is what I've had done with no luck.
1)Tried Removal of windshield no effect
2)Ballance and alignment checked
3)All Balls roller barrings replaced
4)Mechanic in shop noticed that the front springs were bad and missing about an inch of travel, most likely from crating (i bought a last years model deal so Honda replaced)
My next step is to replace the tires.
The problem in detail appears to be mostly between the 40 - 50mph range most notable during slowdown. What i'm hopping is the wobble, after riding with it for nearly 10,000 miles, have programed the tires and a new set of tires will finish off the problem. Honda will not recognize this as an issue due to the fact it is really only an issue of you release the handlebars, which 'you shouldn't do' as quoted from Honda. Still this aside the bike is awsome with the slight annoyance of that wobble.
I bought mine used, have 20K on it, had the front wheel wobble since I bought it last year but now it's getting worse. Wobbles anywhere from 25 to 60 mph, worse at higher speeds. Took it in for a spin balance. The mechanic checked everything else out, wheel and head bearings etc. Seemed even worse so I took it back. He rode it and was as mystified as me that as soon as you put your hands back on the bars the wobble disappears and rides smooth. He checked everything again including the rear tire which he had put on new a couple of months ago. (Front and rear are matched):hmm2: Said he doesn't have a clue. Bearings are tight and "like new." Suggested I try getting a new front tire. Current tire has a lot of good tread left and wear is even and smooth. Is there any way to tell if it's the tire without buying a new one and putting it on? I haven't tried the windshield thing but if it's doing it at 25 mph I would doubt it.
The stock bearings are junk and they are the cause of your problem - look's like they came out of a bicycle. They actually wear down and the side of the cheap races actually can get sharp to the touch and I have seen dimple worn into the race where the ball bearings were riding. Installing the All-Balls roller bearings will stop the problems. Dont try to tighten the stock bearings as it's a wast of time.
Everyone that has changed theirs to All-Balls have notice a great improvement in handling. I have installed them in 12 bikes so far.
I have many times let go of my bars at 60mph and let it go all the way down to 10 mph with no wobble at all - I can set my throttle lock on the highway and let go of the bars and it runs straight and true.
Doug
Donut,
Are you talking head bearings or wheel bearings for the all-balls? Previous poster, SargentHD, said he did the all-balls switch without success. Just askin'. Thankx.
I changed my neck bearings to the all balls and it helped alot but I still have a 40-60 mph decel wobble, I done everything listed on the site for a cure (new springs, tire, shock bushings, dyna beads ect) but cant seem to find true root cause.
Rotate the wheel and look at where the tire meets the rim and rotate the tire and see if is equal.
Her's an idea but don't know if it will help.
I'd try breaking the bead and then put air to it again but have a soapy moist rag and wipe the bead before you add the air - it may help the brad neutralize itself better when it seats to the bead. Otherwise you might have a bad tire. Also is there a dot on the tire that lines up near the valve stem for alignment/balancing.
I recently had the 35-45 MPH wobble on my CB750. Installed new front wheel bearings which were slightly rusted and dry, as well as tightening the steering bearings. Neither resolved the problem. So I then removed the front wheel balancing weight and installed about an ounce of dyna-beads. That also did not resolved the problem.
Now my front tire was a Metzler Lasertech with about 12K miles on it. Although it still had some center tread, the rubber was a hard. Which makes sense because it was nearly 8 years old.
So I figured with 12K miles and 8 years old, I had gotten my money's worth and went ahead and replaced the front tire. Once I replaced the tire with the same Metzler Lasertech and installed an ounce of dyna-beads, the wobble has completely gone away. The ride and handling is like night and day.
Even though my old tire was not completely worn down and was not dry rotted, the hardness of the tire was very bad. Leads me to understand that a number of factors have to be within the correct parameters on motorcycle tires, in order for them to operate correctly.
Once I replaced the tire with the same Metzler Lasertech and installed an ounce of dyna-beads, the wobble has completely gone away. The ride and handling is like night and day.
Even though my old tire was not completely worn down and was not dry rotted, the hardness of the tire was very bad. Leads me to understand that a number of factors have to be within the correct parameters on motorcycle tires, in order for them to operate correctly.
+1... The tire condition can play a huge part in a wobble, if the tread is cupped or it's just old & dried out it can make for a scary ride if you let go of the bars.
Couple of things here. One, always check the dot # on the tire for manufactuer date, I never ride on a tire over 6 years old regardless how long on the bike and I have see some that were on dealer/tire house shelfs that old. Two, dynabeads; 2 oz in motorcycle tires, if running darkside (car tire on rear) then 3 oz.
I have found that the the replacement bearing seem to knock over bumps when they are loose.
Not all bikes are manufactured perfect. Somtimes you need to pull a string on the alignment and check out the relationship of the 2 wheels to each other.. This is a rare occurance but it does happen. Both wheels need to be plumb or strange things happen.
Are you sure it's the bearings. Before I changed my front springs to progressive I was getting a knocking sound over bumps and after I installed the spring the knocking sound went away. I don't know if the C model has the knock but my S did and I expect the R could very well have it to.
Mine knocked with the OEM bearings and when I installed the new tapered bearings they started knocking a week later after when the grease I packed them with had worked out.. Retightened them and all has been good for thousands of miles.
I had a VT1100 with wobble, especially while decreasing speed. Tried everything, including new tire, and nothing helped. Finally, got a second new front tire, and problem solved. First tire had 400 miles on it, but I chose a cheap tire. Second go round I bought Perrelis!
mine were bad that they would to shake at hiway speeds too.. After i got them changed it was sooo smooth that at 100mph i can do no handers like nothing
Had the Wobble at 40 mph with stock Dunnies on. Changed them for Metzelers at 13K, filled them to 40 psi front and rear...wobble gone. Approaching 21K now and it's very, very slightly noticeable and not all the time. Bearings are probably dying. All Balls will be going in soon. Hope this helps.
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