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· Registered
444 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Planning the following changes on my 07 1300C (stock) this weekend:

1) Decap air box + add K&N
2) Factory Pro stage 3 - 58 pilot & either 210 or 215 main (as suggested previously), clip on 3rd spot from the top/flat end, with tit clipped and no spring cut.
3) Glen's permanent A/F tool set 1 3/4 to 2 turns out from lightly seated.
4) PAIR removal and plug back of breather box hole with supplied rubber plug and RTV high temp silicone.

Is there any particular order these should be done? Anything I need to do between these steps? Anything I'm not thinking of or should do (other than keeping my fingers crossed that I don't muck it all up)?

Exhaust on backorder........

· There Can Only Be One
2,780 Posts
How long until the pipes come in? The reason I ask is that more than likely, you'll have to go back in and dial the carb in again when you put the new pipes on later down the road. Usually a full rejet is done when you change the pipes and air intake at the same time.

With that being said, if you want to go ahead and rejet without the new pipes, I would not put in the Stage 3 kit just yet. Start with a little smaller main jet (maybe 200 or 205) and do the rest like what you've mentioned. Then go take her for a spin and go from there on any adjustments.

Dial-in steps:

1. Dial-in the main jet first. You'll be testing this at WOT. If she does fine there, move to next step.
2.'ll be testing this in the mid-range (roughly 1/4- thru 3/4 throttle). Any hesitations will be adjusted with the e-clip on the needle.
3. Pilot jet & a/f'll be testing this from off idle thru 1/4-throttle. Any hesitations can be eliminated with the a/f screw. If she stumbles off idle, turn a/f screw out in increments of 1/8- to 1/4-turns.

· Registered
444 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Boy, that's a good question. Ordered Bubs from PhatPerformance and all they could say is 'backordered - could be 3 - 6 weeks'. So do you think I'd be better off to do the SCAR for now, along with the decap, A/F tool and the PAIR - leaving the rejet until I do finally get the pipes?

I was hoping to only have to take the tank off once, so was trying to group things together with that in mind. However, I watched the Goheen Garage video on rejetting and it seems it can be done without removing the tank.

So what do you think? Do the SCAR in place of the rejet now - then rejet once the pipes are here and installed?

Also...........not familiar with WOT (dial in step 1) - Wide Open Throttle?

· Registered
18,986 Posts
Don't worry about the pipes.

You are going to do the pair valves so filter box has to come off for that.

While the box is off go ahead and take care of the carb after you do the block off plates.

On the carb if you loosen the 17 mm nut behind the choke knob it will then slide out of the bracket then loosen the band clamp at the manifold and work the carb loose so you can tilt it up to get to the bowl screws now with the bowl out of the way you can put in the 210 main and the 58 pilot.

now take the A/F screw out and make sure you have all the parts out screw spring washer and O-ring.
Put Glens screw in and seat it lightly then open it 1 3/4 turns from lightly seated.

push carb back into place and align the notch of the boot with the carb and tighten the band clamp then put choke back in the bracket and snug the nut don't kill it it is a compression fitting and holds tension on the knob.
Now go back and make sure the choke cable is seated in the carb body.

Take the top off the carb and notice the dimple in the top it has to go back the same way, pull the piston and take the nut loose inside it (push down and turn) set your clip on the new needle and insert it then unscrew the little spring and clip that post in half make sure you screw the little spring back in place don't just push it or yank it off.
Place the nut in and push down and turn to lock (it is a cam lock and feel it click in place) now you are ready to put the piston back infold the rubber down the sides of the piston then lower into the carb don't force it as the needle gos into the brass fitting once in place align the tab then the big spring and the top aligned properly evenly tighten the screws and you don't have to kill them.

Now you are ready to mod the box and put it back on.


Get the bike nice and hot takes about 5 miles or so then at 55 in 5th roll on the throttle and see how it reacts, if it hesitates then takes off you may need to add a shim to the needle if it bogs down then takes off (called flat response) and builds rpm better the higher it get then you may need to lower the needle half a clip.

Take your time and if you can take pics so you can refer back to them.

Wide open throttle is just what it says roll it all the way open in 3rd gear if you want to see how it handles the main jet.

· Registered
7,404 Posts
Thanks a ton, Charlie D - those step-by-step directions should help keep me on track! I really appreciate it.
I'd change the order and don't forget to get the block off palates.
And do one thing at a time - don't just jump in there ripping things apart. When doing the parvalve leave all hoses attached to it and plug them as you go even leave the hoses to the covers. that way you wont miss anything.
1. Par removal
2. Glen's a/f
3. FP kit
4. Decap
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