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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I ordered a Baron Big Air kit for my 2005 VTX-1300S. When I got the kit my needle was in the same plastic compartment as the pilot jet. Looks as if it was shaken around pretty good as the needle has two very small nicks on it. I have two questions:
1. Will small nicks (scratches) on the needle hurt anything?
2. the directions said to change the main jet to 210 and set the new needle to the 4th position, but nothing about replacing the spring and pilot jet that came with the kit. I did however replace them is this correct?

I have Vance & Hines Exhaust, and blocked off my reed valves.
 

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yes you use the 58 pilot and your A/F screw should be real close to 2 turns open.

the nicks won't hurt you any but you could polish with some 400 grit paper if you wanted.

Stock spring works better than the lighter spring in the kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Charlie, I did notice the spring was shorter than the stock, but have read where guys cut theirs down sometimes as well. Another question, the Pilot jet was shorter than the stock and did not stick out the bottom into the fuel bowl. Is this OK?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great thanks Charlie. I did this Saturday and started it with the A/F screw 2 1/2 turns out like the directions said, but it smelled rich. So I am just under 2 turns out, factory was 1 3/4. Good call, what is the best air kit setup you have found for this bike? It is snowing here this time of year, so all I can do currently is idle test.
 

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The best kit is the one you like.

I ran stock with a K&N at first
Next was the Hyper Charger (pure junk)

Have been running the BAK for over 50,000 miles and am happy.

If you get a chance a Factory Pro kit stage 3 kit and the BAK will really wake the bike up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK Charlie, I really wanted to wake my bike up so I got the Factory Pro Stage 3 Kit. Question now is what jets and settings do I use? What are you running?
 

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put in the 210 or 215 main and the 58 pilot (210 should be enough)
set the A/F (pilot screw to 1 3/4 open
Clip will go on the 4th position from the blunt end.

On the needle retainer cap you will need to unscrew the little spring and cut the post to half height, if you already cut the post down some just see if the retainer will depress and lock the needle then push on the needle tip and see if it depresses a little as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Charlie, Done. The quality of the Factory Pro needle and jets over what shipped with the BAK is incredible. I really like how much heavier and stronger the Factory Pro needle is and how they packaged it to protect from any damage. It was -6 F here and the bike started first shoot with no enricher. Wow even on warm days during summer it needed the enricher for at least the first 15 min to even run before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cannot wait, I can already tell in the way it starts and sounds. Thanks for the Great Advice.
 

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what considerations do you make when deciding on air box mods and re-jetting verses the scar mod?
From factory just a A/F screw turned out 1/2 turn helps

adding pipes also just a A/F adjustment

and mod to the air box then depending on how much would lead to the Scar mod for light or a Factory Pro kit for heavy mod.

a mod could be a few holes or snorkel removed to a total decap to a full out change in the type of airbox.

Decide what you want to do then ask for some starting points.
 

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i have a 2003 1300s only done claton mod

i bought block off plates and glen's perm a/f adjuster

what i would like is better sound and no hesitation when i engage 1st gear,

i don't need more power just yet because i am a new rider

would adding a k&n filter help
 

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i have a 2003 1300s only done claton mod

i bought block off plates and glen's perm a/f adjuster

what i would like is better sound and no hesitation when i engage 1st gear,

i don't need more power just yet because i am a new rider

would adding a k&n filter help
Just do the block off plates and install the adjuster set it 2 1/4 turns open from lightly seated then when you add the K&N open maybe another 1/4 turn.
 

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thanks Charlie,
will that help w/ the poor throttle response? is that normal?

have a unrelated question, i have on occassion forgot to open the fuel petcock and went out riding, but gas flows, what would cause that?
 

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thanks Charlie,
will that help w/ the poor throttle response? is that normal?

have a unrelated question, i have on occassion forgot to open the fuel petcock and went out riding, but gas flows, what would cause that?
Low end torque and throttle response should be better.

On the fuel valve lever down is on lever up is reserve facing forward is off, so take the fuel line off with the lever forward some gas (small amount in the line will come out) once the line is off turn lever up and see if gas flows then all the way down if no gas flows the petcock is working properly.
 

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dealer said it was due to some vacumn, can the fuel pump work w/ valve closed.
Dealer is full of crap, the valve on yours should not have the vacuum opening and if it was off then it wouldn't flow gas.

With the valve off it should be off period and the fuel pump wouldn't be able to draw gas from the tank.
 

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Newbie here getting the required posts in...
 
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