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Discussion Starter #1
A little back story......

Two weeks ago I hopped on my bike to go to work. It started up and seemed to be idling very weak. Every time I would twist the throttle, the bike would die. After a couple restarts the bike wouldn't start at all, so I hopped in my Ford Explorer (which died the next day) and went to work. I have a 2003 VTX1300 which had a fuel pump. I assumed that it was the fuel pump that went bad. I diagnosed this by bypassing the fuel pump and running the fuel line directly into the carb. The bike would then start. So at this point I decided to upgrade to the vacuum operated petcock that is found on the 2004 and newer 1300s. While I did this I decided to do the scar mod. I have the stock airbox with Roadhouse Classic 2 into 1 exhaust. All I did was snip the tit. I did not add any shims. I got everything installed and the bike will start but the idle still sounds weak and when I twist the throttle the bike dies. If I twist the throttle very slowly the engine will rev and not die. But If I twist it normally, the bike dies.

I sent a PM to Charlie D last night and he suggested to take the top of the carb off and make sure the boot is properly seated. I did this and it is still doing it. After I did this remembered that it started dying before I did the scar mod because initially, I thought I jacked it up by snipping the tit.

That last thing is I noticed the vent line that runs off the fuel tank has a "T" fitting on it as it runs down under the seat. There is no other line attached to the "T". Is that supposed to be that way?

So, does anyone have any ideas? Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks,
Jeff
 

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Yes that tee fitting is supposed to be open

Since you really haven't made any changes to the air box I would venture to say your low speed circuit has some crap in it.

You will need a can of carb cleaner and an air supply to correct it.

Take the carb loose from the manifold then remove the float bowl.
Take out the main and the hex tube it screws into then take out the pilot jet which is right behind it.
then take out the A/F adjustment screw.
You will clean these and blow them out with the air.
Next is on the face of the carb there are 3 openings 12,9,7 clock positions spray cleaner in them and let sit 15 minutes blow out and do again should do this several times.

Spray the rest of the carb openings in the bowl area and blow them out too.

put all the jets back in place and put the A/F screw back in all the way then open it back up 2 1/4 turns.

Now you are ready to put back up in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Charlie, I will get to work on this. What are your thoughts on new jets with my current setup since I will have it apart anyway? Would I benefit from different size jets?
 

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If you stay with a stock air box and no mods to it other than maybe a K&N filter.
200 main 58 pilot stock needle A/F set at 1 7/8

This will increase top end speed and torque in the passing speeds and it will have better bottom end torque for take off.
 

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So should I get the Factory Pro Stage 1 kit?
Stage 1 and 3 are the same and the smallest jet in the kit is a 210 which would be a little to big for a stock air box, if you did a decap of the box it would be fine.
 
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