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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello

OK the bike was running ok. The problem I had was/is the choke would close all the way during long drives or short quick throttle burst. So after it closed when I come to a stop the bike would die unless I opened the choke or applied some throttle.

My Goal was to adjust the A/F screw, however not know where the screw was I pulled the bike apart assuming it was on the carb, which it is. I did not know that there was an adjusting screw down at the bottom of the air filter housing.

steps of what I did (remember bike ran before this)

Removed Seat
Removed Gas Tank (Petcock off)
removed air filter cover (saw fuel and oil in there. is that a concern?)
Removed air filter
Removed back of air filter housing from carb

No Adjustments made Re-assemble now

Attached the 2 air hoses at the bottom of the back of the air filter housing
Attached the back of the air filter housing to the carb (Carb looks like it could use a new o-ring)
put air filter back in
put the rubber gasket back in the air filter housing put cover back on
Put on gas tank
Attached electric from gas tank
put hose back in place at rear right of tank (if looking from the top of tank)
Put fuel line back on petcock and turn on petcock
Started bike

The bike ran very low idle for a few minutes then died. Now it won't start. does not seem to be getting fuel so I pulled the air filter to look at the carb I could smell the fuel could not see it spray though. (thought I would)
Put air filter back on.

now bike won't turn over like the battery is dead.

I am think about trying to jump the bike to see if it starts.

Does anyone have suggestion of what I can loook at or for?
 

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Just from what I got from reading your list is you didn't mention putting the vacuum line back on the left side of the petcock. If you didn't connect that one it will only run for a few minutes on the gas that's in the carb then die as you described. The petcock is vacuum operated, without it the valve stays closed and won't let any gas come out.

The other thing that jumped out at me is the adjustment knob you found under the airbox isn't the A/F, that is for the idle adjustment only. The A/f screw is on the bottom of the carb towards the center of the engine

Here's what will help you actually get to the A/F screw: http://glensvtxgarage.com/aftool.html

And here's where you'll find it
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry when I said connected the fuel line that is what I meant that I connected the hose to the petcock. Thanks for the pick that is very helpful.

Yes donut Bike in neutral and the kill switch is in the run position.

Just tried to jump the bike. that battery on the bike probably needs to be replaced from another thread I read on here. There is fuel in the bowl but I don't think it is getting to the carb.

Wish I had same carb cleaner fluid or brake cleaner.
 

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It wont get gas without the vacuum connected to the petcock. Still you are saying fuel line - there are two lines that go to the petcock. I may have misread your explanation. And you probably ran the battery down trying to start it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It wont get gas without the vacuum connected to the petcock. Still you are saying fuel line - there are two lines that go to the petcock. I may have misread your explanation. And you probably ran the battery down trying to start it.
I only disconnected one hose, but I will see if there is something I missed seeing. I also got some starter fluid. Will eat then check and let you know.
 

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If you've been riding with the choke partially pulled, you've probably fouled the plugs...Not really a choke like a car carb, but it's an enrichment circuit that just dumps extra gas into the carb...Properly used, is just for a few seconds to start the bike, then it should be fully seated for riding...Get the A/F screw adjusted properly and you'll never need to touch the choke knob ever again...I haven't used mine in over three years now...

Also if you're jumping the bike with a car, DO NOT start the car engine...Just hook the cables to the car battery and do it that way...Jumping with the car running can easily fry the electrical system in the bike...

It wont get gas without the vacuum connected to the petcock. Still you are saying fuel line - there are two lines that go to the petcock. I may have misread your explanation. And you probably ran the battery down trying to start it.
If his bike is a 2003, it only has a fuel line...2003 has a fuel pump, and the petcock is not vacuum operated....
 

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On a 03 there is one hose - 04 and up there is two.
One on the left (small hose) is the vacuum.
One on the right is the gas line going to the carb.
If the vacuum hose is disconnected it will run for a few seconds and die the first time then it will not start.
Leaving that vacuum hose off is a common problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is an 06' and yes that vacuum hose on the petcock disconnected and I didn't even see it. connected it and the bike started up. had to pull the choke out though and it sputter giving it gas. Going to check plugs re-gap if needed then try adjusting the A/F screw, which doesn't look easy

Just from what I got from reading your list is you didn't mention putting the vacuum line back on the left side of the petcock. If you didn't connect that one it will only run for a few minutes on the gas that's in the carb then die as you described. The petcock is vacuum operated, without it the valve stays closed and won't let any gas come out.

The other thing that jumped out at me is the adjustment knob you found under the airbox isn't the A/F, that is for the idle adjustment only. The A/f screw is on the bottom of the carb towards the center of the engine

Here's what will help you actually get to the A/F screw: http://glensvtxgarage.com/aftool.html


And here's where you'll find it
I take it I will have to pull the carb to adjust that screw
 

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This is an 06' and yes that vacuum hose on the petcock disconnected and I didn't even see it. connected it and the bike started up. had to pull the choke out though and it sputter giving it gas. Going to check plugs re-gap if needed then try adjusting the A/F screw, which doesn't look easy
A/F all the way in GENTLY then out 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns. 3 twist of the throttle, NO CHOKE, should start an run if idle is set properly

PS may sputter for a few seconds, feather the throttle for 15-20 seconds should be the most needed
 

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You can just loosen the band clamp and tug the carb loose then turn up enough to get to the A/F screw.

Turn it all the way in till lightly seated then open 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You can just loosen the band clamp and tug the carb loose then turn up enough to get to the A/F screw.

Turn it all the way in till lightly seated then open 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns.

ok call me crazy but this screw doesn't have a slit for a screw driver. any thoughts?

According to the picture I am looking at the right screw
 

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First glad it was something so simple.
If I were you I'd wait until you get Glen's permanent a/f adjuster - then it comes with a D tool to get that sucker out and that way you wont have to do everything twice. When you get it we can tell you the easy way of changing it.
 
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