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Bike Doesn't start after taking it apart.

2757 Views 43 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  eagleinthewind

OK the bike was running ok. The problem I had was/is the choke would close all the way during long drives or short quick throttle burst. So after it closed when I come to a stop the bike would die unless I opened the choke or applied some throttle.

My Goal was to adjust the A/F screw, however not know where the screw was I pulled the bike apart assuming it was on the carb, which it is. I did not know that there was an adjusting screw down at the bottom of the air filter housing.

steps of what I did (remember bike ran before this)

Removed Seat
Removed Gas Tank (Petcock off)
removed air filter cover (saw fuel and oil in there. is that a concern?)
Removed air filter
Removed back of air filter housing from carb

No Adjustments made Re-assemble now

Attached the 2 air hoses at the bottom of the back of the air filter housing
Attached the back of the air filter housing to the carb (Carb looks like it could use a new o-ring)
put air filter back in
put the rubber gasket back in the air filter housing put cover back on
Put on gas tank
Attached electric from gas tank
put hose back in place at rear right of tank (if looking from the top of tank)
Put fuel line back on petcock and turn on petcock
Started bike

The bike ran very low idle for a few minutes then died. Now it won't start. does not seem to be getting fuel so I pulled the air filter to look at the carb I could smell the fuel could not see it spray though. (thought I would)
Put air filter back on.

now bike won't turn over like the battery is dead.

I am think about trying to jump the bike to see if it starts.

Does anyone have suggestion of what I can loook at or for?
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You can just loosen the band clamp and tug the carb loose then turn up enough to get to the A/F screw.

Turn it all the way in till lightly seated then open 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns.
It is a "D" shaped screw head.

Some use a spent 22 case with the side dented in to turn it and others use a blue electrical butt connecter
the oil and crud in the air box is normal and is caused by the crank case vent hooked to the back of the box.

Make sure you get the A/F set at 2 1/2 turns or under or it may fall out on you.
You need to turn the screw out another 1/4 to 1/2 turn 1 1/2 is the factory lean setting.

You may also need to adjust your idle up 800-900 sounds real fast but is the proper setting.
ok Back again. Lets make sure I am doing this right.

1. turn the A/F screw Clockwise until it doesn't turn anymore
2. turn the A/F screw Counter Clockwise 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns

If this is right, then this is my issue

at 2 1/4 turns I need to keep the fuel en-richer (choke) all the way open when at stops.

at 1 1/2 turns I only need to pull the fuel en-richer (choke) only a little bit when at stops.

With this said I think the carb needs to be re-jetted.
Your actions should be reversed but use of the choke at all is not recommended.

Sounds to me like the carb jets are dirty and need to be pulled and cleaned along with cleaning all the ports on the carb.
when you open the A/f to 2 1/2 turns it makes it richer at idle.
opening the choke all the way makes it even richer.

when the A/F is set at 1 1/2 you are leaner at idle
opening the choke a little makes it just a little richer.

The A/F is a pilot control needle is has nothing to do with the amount of air as suggested in the name we have all placed on it.
when we open it it allows more fuel to flow at idle.

You need to adjust the idle up and it should sound a little fast so with the bike sitting in you drive adjust the idle up there is no turning it half way it is turning till it idles fast and it must be done with the filter in place or the bike will not run.
After you get the idle up close to where it should be then you can adjust the (A/F) pilot screw correctly.

Here is what it should sound like by Gonzo1970
Good to hear
Now put some miles on it and most of all have fun and be safe.
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