Bike Doesn't start after taking it apart.

2757 Views 43 Replies 10 Participants Last post by eagleinthewind, Jul 10, 2011

Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · Jun 19, 2011

Hello

OK the bike was running ok. The problem I had was/is the choke would close all the way during long drives or short quick throttle burst. So after it closed when I come to a stop the bike would die unless I opened the choke or applied some throttle.

My Goal was to adjust the A/F screw, however not know where the screw was I pulled the bike apart assuming it was on the carb, which it is. I did not know that there was an adjusting screw down at the bottom of the air filter housing.

steps of what I did (remember bike ran before this)

Removed Seat
Removed Gas Tank (Petcock off)
removed air filter cover (saw fuel and oil in there. is that a concern?)
Removed air filter
Removed back of air filter housing from carb

No Adjustments made Re-assemble now

Attached the 2 air hoses at the bottom of the back of the air filter housing
Attached the back of the air filter housing to the carb (Carb looks like it could use a new o-ring)
put air filter back in
put the rubber gasket back in the air filter housing put cover back on
Put on gas tank
Attached electric from gas tank
put hose back in place at rear right of tank (if looking from the top of tank)
Put fuel line back on petcock and turn on petcock
Started bike

The bike ran very low idle for a few minutes then died. Now it won't start. does not seem to be getting fuel so I pulled the air filter to look at the carb I could smell the fuel could not see it spray though. (thought I would)
Put air filter back on.

now bike won't turn over like the battery is dead.

I am think about trying to jump the bike to see if it starts.

Does anyone have suggestion of what I can loook at or for?

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jun 19, 2011

Sorry when I said connected the fuel line that is what I meant that I connected the hose to the petcock. Thanks for the pick that is very helpful.

Yes donut Bike in neutral and the kill switch is in the run position.

Just tried to jump the bike. that battery on the bike probably needs to be replaced from another thread I read on here. There is fuel in the bowl but I don't think it is getting to the carb.

Wish I had same carb cleaner fluid or brake cleaner.

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jun 19, 2011

Donut said:
It wont get gas without the vacuum connected to the petcock. Still you are saying fuel line - there are two lines that go to the petcock. I may have misread your explanation. And you probably ran the battery down trying to start it.

I only disconnected one hose, but I will see if there is something I missed seeing. I also got some starter fluid. Will eat then check and let you know.

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jun 19, 2011

This is an 06' and yes that vacuum hose on the petcock disconnected and I didn't even see it. connected it and the bike started up. had to pull the choke out though and it sputter giving it gas. Going to check plugs re-gap if needed then try adjusting the A/F screw, which doesn't look easy

doug48317 said:
Just from what I got from reading your list is you didn't mention putting the vacuum line back on the left side of the petcock. If you didn't connect that one it will only run for a few minutes on the gas that's in the carb then die as you described. The petcock is vacuum operated, without it the valve stays closed and won't let any gas come out.

The other thing that jumped out at me is the adjustment knob you found under the airbox isn't the A/F, that is for the idle adjustment only. The A/f screw is on the bottom of the carb towards the center of the engine

Here's what will help you actually get to the A/F screw: http://glensvtxgarage.com/aftool.html

And here's where you'll find it

I take it I will have to pull the carb to adjust that screw

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jun 19, 2011

Charlie D said:
You can just loosen the band clamp and tug the carb loose then turn up enough to get to the A/F screw.

Turn it all the way in till lightly seated then open 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns.

ok call me crazy but this screw doesn't have a slit for a screw driver. any thoughts?

According to the picture I am looking at the right screw

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #18 · Jun 19, 2011

THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP. I TRULY APPRECIATE IT!!!!

but since I have nothing to adjust the A/F I have to put this aside for now

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #20 · Jun 20, 2011

It will be a while before I get that. I am thinking about the .223 shell casing.

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #22 · Jun 25, 2011

Gnu Guy yes the .223 is a bit big but I got it to work.

ok so here is my update. I removed the spark plugs and re-gapped them. that helped the real noticeable miss-fire is gone. How ever I think I did back off the A/F screw 2.5 turns but I think I will need to get the tool and adjust it correctly. I took it out for a test ride. rides nice. no power loss little better idle. but still having the choke problem. Loud back fire now too, that wasn't there before, black smoke out of both tail pipes now, not a lot. also when I removed the air filter cover there was oil/gas mix in the housing, have to assume that isn't good.

From what I have read the back fire is normal after a procedure like this but it will clear. if not I have more work. So tomorrow I have 60 mile round trip to work so I will see what happens.

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #27 · Jun 27, 2011

Another update:

OK Michelle (that's my girl) made me a deal. donate $20 to "Ride for Kids" and she gave me a D tool from their shop. So appearently the .223 shell casing was not turning the screw like I thought it was. When I used the tool and closed the screw I went in about 3 1/2 turns. ok so after some playing I have the screw set at 1 1/2 turns out. Bike runs good still have power through out the range of the throttle, no hesitation. but I still have the issue that when the fuel enricher is closed the bike will die. However the A/F adjustment to where it is did give bettter de-acceleration as it is smoother. I don't think I should go anymore turns in. I am thinking the carb itself will need to be shimmed. I found a writeup on this but I wanted to get other opinions first. So does anyone out there have an opinion?

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #31 · Jun 27, 2011

Thanks for the answers. If I turn the screw 2 1/2 2 1/4 then the bike is worse when coming to the stop. I think I will ajust the idle though since I haven't done that.

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #32 · Jul 9, 2011

ok Back again. Lets make sure I am doing this right.

1. turn the A/F screw Clockwise until it doesn't turn anymore
2. turn the A/F screw Counter Clockwise 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns

If this is right, then this is my issue

at 2 1/4 turns I need to keep the fuel en-richer (choke) all the way open when at stops.

at 1 1/2 turns I only need to pull the fuel en-richer (choke) only a little bit when at stops.

With this said I think the carb needs to be re-jetted.

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #37 · Jul 10, 2011

Charlie D - What do you mean my actions should be reversed? I was thinking that the carb may hve to be jetted but a cleaning might work also.

Big X - I have not changed the plugs since messing with the choke. I have to mess with the choke at every stop.

Donut - I know I should not need the chole. the problem is that if I don't open it the bike will die at stops and this is worse when the A/F screw is 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns out, as I decribed how I did it.

If the choke is a fuel in richer then this would suggest that I am running really thin at 2 1/2 out on the A/F screw so I am assuming the A/F screw is air only, is this a correct assumption?

as for the idle I do not have a tac/dwell so I can't possiblly know where it is exactly at. when I had the air filter off though I adjusted the idle screw to be at half way since I could see that or what at least looks half way.

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #39 · Jul 10, 2011

Charlie D - Thank You for your reply. I have downloaded a manual and it calls it the pilot screw too. are the steps I am taking to adjust the pilot screw correct? if so I must be that much closer. I will adjust the idle now and let you know.

Charlie D said:
when you open the A/f to 2 1/2 turns it makes it richer at idle.
opening the choke all the way makes it even richer.

when the A/F is set at 1 1/2 you are leaner at idle
opening the choke a little makes it just a little richer.

The A/F is a pilot control needle is has nothing to do with the amount of air as suggested in the name we have all placed on it.
when we open it it allows more fuel to flow at idle.

You need to adjust the idle up and it should sound a little fast so with the bike sitting in you drive adjust the idle up there is no turning it half way it is turning till it idles fast and it must be done with the filter in place or the bike will not run.

ok Idle is set now. Must have been really low. seems to idle high so I must be close to the 800 - 900 range. Going for t a test ride to see how it responds. Thanks again for the help.

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #41 · Jul 10, 2011

Charlie D said:
After you get the idle up close to where it should be then you can adjust the (A/F) pilot screw correctly.

Here is what it should sound like by Gonzo1970

http://s1000.photobucket.com/albums/af122/Gonzo1970_bucket/Tuning/?action=view&current=tune002.mp4

and that is what it sounds like now. The missing is gone and so is the smoke out of the tail pipes. Thank You so much

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Q_Ball

Discussion Starter · #43 · Jul 10, 2011

Does 3000 miles in 6 weeks count? LOL

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