Not .223, .22
Bike Doesn't start after taking it apart.
Hello
OK the bike was running ok. The problem I had was/is the choke would close all the way during long drives or short quick throttle burst. So after it closed when I come to a stop the bike would die unless I opened the choke or applied some throttle.
My Goal was to adjust the A/F screw, however not know where the screw was I pulled the bike apart assuming it was on the carb, which it is. I did not know that there was an adjusting screw down at the bottom of the air filter housing.
steps of what I did (remember bike ran before this)
Removed Seat
Removed Gas Tank (Petcock off)
removed air filter cover (saw fuel and oil in there. is that a concern?)
Removed air filter
Removed back of air filter housing from carb
No Adjustments made Re-assemble now
Attached the 2 air hoses at the bottom of the back of the air filter housing
Attached the back of the air filter housing to the carb (Carb looks like it could use a new o-ring)
put air filter back in
put the rubber gasket back in the air filter housing put cover back on
Put on gas tank
Attached electric from gas tank
put hose back in place at rear right of tank (if looking from the top of tank)
Put fuel line back on petcock and turn on petcock
Started bike
The bike ran very low idle for a few minutes then died. Now it won't start. does not seem to be getting fuel so I pulled the air filter to look at the carb I could smell the fuel could not see it spray though. (thought I would)
Put air filter back on.
now bike won't turn over like the battery is dead.
I am think about trying to jump the bike to see if it starts.
Does anyone have suggestion of what I can loook at or for?
OK the bike was running ok. The problem I had was/is the choke would close all the way during long drives or short quick throttle burst. So after it closed when I come to a stop the bike would die unless I opened the choke or applied some throttle.
My Goal was to adjust the A/F screw, however not know where the screw was I pulled the bike apart assuming it was on the carb, which it is. I did not know that there was an adjusting screw down at the bottom of the air filter housing.
steps of what I did (remember bike ran before this)
Removed Seat
Removed Gas Tank (Petcock off)
removed air filter cover (saw fuel and oil in there. is that a concern?)
Removed air filter
Removed back of air filter housing from carb
No Adjustments made Re-assemble now
Attached the 2 air hoses at the bottom of the back of the air filter housing
Attached the back of the air filter housing to the carb (Carb looks like it could use a new o-ring)
put air filter back in
put the rubber gasket back in the air filter housing put cover back on
Put on gas tank
Attached electric from gas tank
put hose back in place at rear right of tank (if looking from the top of tank)
Put fuel line back on petcock and turn on petcock
Started bike
The bike ran very low idle for a few minutes then died. Now it won't start. does not seem to be getting fuel so I pulled the air filter to look at the carb I could smell the fuel could not see it spray though. (thought I would)
Put air filter back on.
now bike won't turn over like the battery is dead.
I am think about trying to jump the bike to see if it starts.
Does anyone have suggestion of what I can loook at or for?
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
Gnu Guy yes the .223 is a bit big but I got it to work.
ok so here is my update. I removed the spark plugs and re-gapped them. that helped the real noticeable miss-fire is gone. How ever I think I did back off the A/F screw 2.5 turns but I think I will need to get the tool and adjust it correctly. I took it out for a test ride. rides nice. no power loss little better idle. but still having the choke problem. Loud back fire now too, that wasn't there before, black smoke out of both tail pipes now, not a lot. also when I removed the air filter cover there was oil/gas mix in the housing, have to assume that isn't good.
From what I have read the back fire is normal after a procedure like this but it will clear. if not I have more work. So tomorrow I have 60 mile round trip to work so I will see what happens.
ok so here is my update. I removed the spark plugs and re-gapped them. that helped the real noticeable miss-fire is gone. How ever I think I did back off the A/F screw 2.5 turns but I think I will need to get the tool and adjust it correctly. I took it out for a test ride. rides nice. no power loss little better idle. but still having the choke problem. Loud back fire now too, that wasn't there before, black smoke out of both tail pipes now, not a lot. also when I removed the air filter cover there was oil/gas mix in the housing, have to assume that isn't good.
From what I have read the back fire is normal after a procedure like this but it will clear. if not I have more work. So tomorrow I have 60 mile round trip to work so I will see what happens.
the oil and crud in the air box is normal and is caused by the crank case vent hooked to the back of the box.
Make sure you get the A/F set at 2 1/2 turns or under or it may fall out on you.
Make sure you get the A/F set at 2 1/2 turns or under or it may fall out on you.
Donut, I have Glen's permanent A/F adjuster and was going to change that out this weekend. If there is a trick or easy way of doing that like you mentioned, I'd appreciate learning about it.
Thanks
Thanks
You have to pull the tank and the airbox then there is a hose clamp behind the carb that you loosen then you cab pull it out of the rubber intake and up and will to be able to get at the old a/f under the carb. Glen's kit comes a removal tool that you can put into a screwdriver ( the type that has different driver attachments that plug in) Glen's instructions are pretty good. Make sure you get the old O ring out. (place a rag under everything in case you drop something). And spray the opening with WD40. When you reinstall the air box make sure you don't kink the big hose behind it on the bottom.Donut, I have Glen's permanent A/F adjuster and was going to change that out this weekend. If there is a trick or easy way of doing that like you mentioned, I'd appreciate learning about it.
Thanks
Doug
Thanks Doug, I appreciate it!
Another update:
OK Michelle (that's my girl) made me a deal. donate $20 to "Ride for Kids" and she gave me a D tool from their shop. So appearently the .223 shell casing was not turning the screw like I thought it was. When I used the tool and closed the screw I went in about 3 1/2 turns. ok so after some playing I have the screw set at 1 1/2 turns out. Bike runs good still have power through out the range of the throttle, no hesitation. but I still have the issue that when the fuel enricher is closed the bike will die. However the A/F adjustment to where it is did give bettter de-acceleration as it is smoother. I don't think I should go anymore turns in. I am thinking the carb itself will need to be shimmed. I found a writeup on this but I wanted to get other opinions first. So does anyone out there have an opinion?
OK Michelle (that's my girl) made me a deal. donate $20 to "Ride for Kids" and she gave me a D tool from their shop. So appearently the .223 shell casing was not turning the screw like I thought it was. When I used the tool and closed the screw I went in about 3 1/2 turns. ok so after some playing I have the screw set at 1 1/2 turns out. Bike runs good still have power through out the range of the throttle, no hesitation. but I still have the issue that when the fuel enricher is closed the bike will die. However the A/F adjustment to where it is did give bettter de-acceleration as it is smoother. I don't think I should go anymore turns in. I am thinking the carb itself will need to be shimmed. I found a writeup on this but I wanted to get other opinions first. So does anyone out there have an opinion?
You need to turn the screw out another 1/4 to 1/2 turn 1 1/2 is the factory lean setting.
You may also need to adjust your idle up 800-900 sounds real fast but is the proper setting.
You may also need to adjust your idle up 800-900 sounds real fast but is the proper setting.
Open the A/F to 2-1/2 out and then set the idle properly...With both of those set correctly you'll never need to touch the "choke" knob again...
You guys beat me to it; yes, what they said... 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 and 800-900 rpms, never touch the choke again.
Thanks for the answers. If I turn the screw 2 1/2 2 1/4 then the bike is worse when coming to the stop. I think I will ajust the idle though since I haven't done that.
ok Back again. Lets make sure I am doing this right.
1. turn the A/F screw Clockwise until it doesn't turn anymore
2. turn the A/F screw Counter Clockwise 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns
If this is right, then this is my issue
at 2 1/4 turns I need to keep the fuel en-richer (choke) all the way open when at stops.
at 1 1/2 turns I only need to pull the fuel en-richer (choke) only a little bit when at stops.
With this said I think the carb needs to be re-jetted.
1. turn the A/F screw Clockwise until it doesn't turn anymore
2. turn the A/F screw Counter Clockwise 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns
If this is right, then this is my issue
at 2 1/4 turns I need to keep the fuel en-richer (choke) all the way open when at stops.
at 1 1/2 turns I only need to pull the fuel en-richer (choke) only a little bit when at stops.
With this said I think the carb needs to be re-jetted.
At 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 you should not need the choke. Is your idle turned uo enough it may be too low.
agree on the low idle, the VTX idles high, around 900 RPM; if it sounds high it is probably right, any lower and it will stall.
Your actions should be reversed but use of the choke at all is not recommended.ok Back again. Lets make sure I am doing this right.
1. turn the A/F screw Clockwise until it doesn't turn anymore
2. turn the A/F screw Counter Clockwise 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns
If this is right, then this is my issue
at 2 1/4 turns I need to keep the fuel en-richer (choke) all the way open when at stops.
at 1 1/2 turns I only need to pull the fuel en-richer (choke) only a little bit when at stops.
With this said I think the carb needs to be re-jetted.
Sounds to me like the carb jets are dirty and need to be pulled and cleaned along with cleaning all the ports on the carb.
Have you changed the plugs since the last time you messed with the choke?? If so then I would keep the carb at 2.5, replace the plugs and then see what happens.
Charlie D - What do you mean my actions should be reversed? I was thinking that the carb may hve to be jetted but a cleaning might work also.
Big X - I have not changed the plugs since messing with the choke. I have to mess with the choke at every stop.
Donut - I know I should not need the chole. the problem is that if I don't open it the bike will die at stops and this is worse when the A/F screw is 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns out, as I decribed how I did it.
If the choke is a fuel in richer then this would suggest that I am running really thin at 2 1/2 out on the A/F screw so I am assuming the A/F screw is air only, is this a correct assumption?
as for the idle I do not have a tac/dwell so I can't possiblly know where it is exactly at. when I had the air filter off though I adjusted the idle screw to be at half way since I could see that or what at least looks half way.
Big X - I have not changed the plugs since messing with the choke. I have to mess with the choke at every stop.
Donut - I know I should not need the chole. the problem is that if I don't open it the bike will die at stops and this is worse when the A/F screw is 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns out, as I decribed how I did it.
If the choke is a fuel in richer then this would suggest that I am running really thin at 2 1/2 out on the A/F screw so I am assuming the A/F screw is air only, is this a correct assumption?
as for the idle I do not have a tac/dwell so I can't possiblly know where it is exactly at. when I had the air filter off though I adjusted the idle screw to be at half way since I could see that or what at least looks half way.
when you open the A/f to 2 1/2 turns it makes it richer at idle.
opening the choke all the way makes it even richer.
when the A/F is set at 1 1/2 you are leaner at idle
opening the choke a little makes it just a little richer.
The A/F is a pilot control needle is has nothing to do with the amount of air as suggested in the name we have all placed on it.
when we open it it allows more fuel to flow at idle.
You need to adjust the idle up and it should sound a little fast so with the bike sitting in you drive adjust the idle up there is no turning it half way it is turning till it idles fast and it must be done with the filter in place or the bike will not run.
opening the choke all the way makes it even richer.
when the A/F is set at 1 1/2 you are leaner at idle
opening the choke a little makes it just a little richer.
The A/F is a pilot control needle is has nothing to do with the amount of air as suggested in the name we have all placed on it.
when we open it it allows more fuel to flow at idle.
You need to adjust the idle up and it should sound a little fast so with the bike sitting in you drive adjust the idle up there is no turning it half way it is turning till it idles fast and it must be done with the filter in place or the bike will not run.
Charlie D - Thank You for your reply. I have downloaded a manual and it calls it the pilot screw too. are the steps I am taking to adjust the pilot screw correct? if so I must be that much closer. I will adjust the idle now and let you know.
ok Idle is set now. Must have been really low. seems to idle high so I must be close to the 800 - 900 range. Going for t a test ride to see how it responds. Thanks again for the help.
when you open the A/f to 2 1/2 turns it makes it richer at idle.
opening the choke all the way makes it even richer.
when the A/F is set at 1 1/2 you are leaner at idle
opening the choke a little makes it just a little richer.
The A/F is a pilot control needle is has nothing to do with the amount of air as suggested in the name we have all placed on it.
when we open it it allows more fuel to flow at idle.
You need to adjust the idle up and it should sound a little fast so with the bike sitting in you drive adjust the idle up there is no turning it half way it is turning till it idles fast and it must be done with the filter in place or the bike will not run.
ok Idle is set now. Must have been really low. seems to idle high so I must be close to the 800 - 900 range. Going for t a test ride to see how it responds. Thanks again for the help.
After you get the idle up close to where it should be then you can adjust the (A/F) pilot screw correctly.
Here is what it should sound like by Gonzo1970
http://s1000.photobucket.com/albums/af122/Gonzo1970_bucket/Tuning/?action=view¤t=tune002.mp4
Here is what it should sound like by Gonzo1970
http://s1000.photobucket.com/albums/af122/Gonzo1970_bucket/Tuning/?action=view¤t=tune002.mp4
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Honda VTX 1300 / VTX 1800 Motorcycles Forum
VTX Cafe Forum is for owners of Honda VTX 1300 or VTX 1800. Join this community to discuss mods, specs, parts & more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
