[doc_63]

I know I want to use synthetic oil after 2000 miles. What oil can I find at Wal-Mart etc that will be good for the first 2000. I will be changing oil at 50-300-600 miles. Do I need to use motorcycle oil or plain motor oil? Just another question thats probably simple for most of you folks. Jeez, am I over thinking this stuff or do I just like to ask questions? Oh well, its always fun to see all the responses. You guys rock.

Shutterbug, dont you have some insight on this subject?

 

[NormO]

Need to use a motorcycle oil desinged for wet clutches, (which is what these bikes have). Cause the oil does double duty, engine and clutch.
Also, (and someone on the site here knows for sure) but it's also a non-detergent oil i think. Your manual will tell you what your looking for with regard to oil type and what should and should not be printed on the back of the bottle. In short use motorcycle oil for four strokes with wet clutches.

 

[ibified]

I just used the honda oil until I got it good and broken in, then switched to synthetic.

 

[wren]

The big thing with the oil is to make sure it does NOT have the 'energy conserving' mark on the label. Yer clutch just won't like that.
Now while you can use automobile grade oil in yer bike, all the little additives in this type of oil can't take the abuse that a bike engine and clutch put out. General consensus seems to be that at about 500 miles you can start to get oil breakdown.
A motorcycle grade oil is what you want, but, a caution here also. You'll run across containers that state they're formulated for v-twin engines. And they are. For AIR cooled v-twins. Ya don't want that. Yer machine is liquid cooled and has different characteristics.
Now, with my machines, both my '05 X and my wife's '04 Aero, I switched to Amsoil at 600 miles. Gotta say that both bikes operate smoother, cooler and with better clutch response than with dino oils. On my '04 X,I switched at 9000 miles and had a noticable improvement in my bike.
Just a side note here. A lot of folks like to change the rear differential oil when they change the engine oil. It seems that Honda has an additive in this oil that is necessary for proper break-in of the differential. So, again, general concensus is to not change that oil till the first change listed in yer owners manual.

 

[syhman]

Courious minds want to know....why are you changing the oil so often. Really not needed.

 

[Retro Rich]

+1, you don't have to change it so quickly but to each their own. Like wren states, use a designated MC oil or at least one without the Engergy Conserving "starburst" on the label. Honda oil is fine, I've used Valvoline MC oil (make sure you get the 4-stroke type) and I've even seen some guys use the appropriate type of Shell Rotella T.

 

[Green Ghost]

Plus

Plus 2

 

[Charlie D]

here is some reading material on oil and filters
http://www.micapeak.com/bike/ST/ST1300/Oils.html#OilFilters

 

[doc_63]

Rich & Shyman, I was taking some advice from dblshockpower on the frequent oil changes at 50-300-600 miles. I guess I figured it couldnt possibly hurt. Other than spending a lot of money on oil & filters unneccessarily. Maybe this idea is overkill. I believe Shutterbug thought this schedule was optimum also. Thanks

 

[DillDawg]

If you want a cheap dino oil to run...the Shell Rotella will work just fine:
http://www.rotella.com/products/rotella_t.html
WalMart...less than $10 a gallon.
Their T-Synthetic is a very good oil too once you decide to switch from the dino...thats about $16 per gallon.

 

[doc_63]

So many choices...

 

[dblshockpower]

I tried to tell you guys MCV 20W-50 was awsome, been using it in the ATV's too, noticeably better, here's a side by side 'true' test although possibly a questionable source.

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

 

[justbugging]

I am trying to learn what is better for my 1800 C @ 2,000 miles I changed it with the oil Honda said to use. If the oil you are talking about the synthetic oil is better for our bikes please tell me I will switch. Or is it just what a person likes which is okay too. Thanks Eddie

 

[Shutterbug]

I am trying to learn what is better for my 1800 C @ 2,000 miles I changed it with the oil Honda said to use. If the oil you are talking about the synthetic oil is better for our bikes please tell me I will switch. Or is it just what a person likes which is okay too. Thanks Eddie

Run the current until your next oil change. then try my favorite (and the favorite of many here), Mobil One MX4T also called Racing 4T. You will be pleased with the results!

 

[wren]

I am trying to learn what is better for my 1800 C @ 2,000 miles I changed it with the oil Honda said to use. If the oil you are talking about the synthetic oil is better for our bikes please tell me I will switch. Or is it just what a person likes which is okay too. Thanks Eddie

If ya used Honda labelled oil, Honda just uses oil by bid. Uncertain, but, I think the current supplier is Kendall.
If ya wish to stick with dino oil, just make sure ya keep to about a 2500 to 3000 mile interval between changes.Advise ya to stick with motorcycle blend oils (see my post above).
A full synthetic oil (and Honda's bottled synthetic is a blend, not full synthetic) has shown repeatedly to be much nicer to your engine and tranny. Everyone has personal tastes in what they want in their bikes. Its a decision ya have to make for yourself.

 

[Buda_jim]

Hey Eddie,

Probably everyone knows about Honda's infamous "clunk" when downshifting to first gear. For those that don't know and are concerned about it ... don't be, it's just a normal Honda transmission. Switch to a full synthetic motor oil designed specifically for motorcycles like Mobil-1 Racing 4T, or Castrol R4 Superbike, or Amsoil MCF 10W-40, and that clunk will definitely get quieter. Shifting will smooth out also. When you hear and feel the difference, you'll know it's better for your engine.

That said --- wait until your engine is fully broken in. Using a synthetic oil too soon will retard the break-in process. The general wisdom here seems to be at least 2,000 miles. I waited until I had a little over 4,000 miles.

As has been said here many times, avoid "Energy Conserving" addititives. They are great for your car, but your VTX uses the motor oil to keep the clutch and tranny lubricated. Energy conserving additives provide super-slippery characteristics that can give you a little better gas mileage in your car, but tend to make the clutch slip in your VTX. Stick to a synthetic oil designed for motorcycles (any of the three above) and you won't run into this problem.

Buda_Jim

 

[justbugging]

Thanks Buda Jim

Thanks for the reply about the break in oil, I know about that clunk your talking about, had no idea by changeing to a different oil that would help. I am going to do it!!! This as i have always said , is a GREAT SITE!!! TAKE CARE and be Safe!!! And keep it up right!!! your friend Eddie :choppersm