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my toes, my line
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I removed both hoses at the top of the T in this photo, and the plastic T. I used the bottom hose in this picture and went directly from the Petcock to the Carb. This is what you do when you do the the pair valve block off plates. I think your previous owner did the pair valve removal.

If you are desmoged, and have that T sitting open you want to remove that and replace it with a single hose (vacuum hose) that goes from the carb to the petcock.

*If I remember correctly.

See the instructions from Bareasschoppers:




https://tech.bareasschoppers.com/engine/vtx-1300-desmog/
THANK YOU!

I didnt think I was addled, but couldnt put mah finger on it as it's been a year and a half since I did it and I am doing good to remember what I had for lunch (tuna salad).
 

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Bump for one of the best threads of all time. This was a tremendous help to set up my X (220/60/4/1.5) with BAK and full Cobra exhaust. Thank you - esp Charlie - and to all you other glorious contributors.
 

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Bump for one of the best threads of all time. This was a tremendous help to set up my X (220/60/4/1.5) with BAK and full Cobra exhaust. Thank you - esp Charlie - and to all you other glorious contributors.
This is a very good thread.

When you have a chance, try this setting and see if it is better or worse for you (Factory Pro -> 210,60,5.5,1.5). This is my setup from my dyno tuner, it has worked for a few others as well.

I'm not sure of your location, (you should probably add it to your profile) I'm in Long Island NY so my elevation is almost sea level.
 

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I have a question for Charlie D. I have a 2009 1300R. I am running a factory air box with scoops on the outside (Got that idea and followed from Mark). Cobra long shots with baffles. Factory pro 220 main, 58 slow, needle on 3 clip with 1 washer and the spring is out of a dynajet kit. I am doing the riding test that you wrote up and 2nd gear at 45 take off is strong and all the way up. 4th at 50 it seems to shutter. I can move the needle but it seems that going to 4th clip is excessive. I am wondering if I should try a 215 and leave the needle and maybe increase fuel mileage. (Getting about 38 now). Should I leave the 220 and move the needle, or leave the needle and try the 215?
 

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Reeling Jackwagon
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Sadly, CharlieD died last year, but someone who has a better understanding of tweaking carbs should be able to help you.
 

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I have a question for Charlie D. I have a 2009 1300R. I am running a factory air box with scoops on the outside (Got that idea and followed from Mark). Cobra long shots with baffles. Factory pro 220 main, 58 slow, needle on 3 clip with 1 washer and the spring is out of a dynajet kit. I am doing the riding test that you wrote up and 2nd gear at 45 take off is strong and all the way up. 4th at 50 it seems to shutter. I can move the needle but it seems that going to 4th clip is excessive. I am wondering if I should try a 215 and leave the needle and maybe increase fuel mileage. (Getting about 38 now). Should I leave the 220 and move the needle, or leave the needle and try the 215?
I too am running the Aries-1 Ram Air Induction cover from Mark! I have a couple of questions for you and a couple of observations. You say you are running Factory Pro jets and yet you are running the DynaJunk spring, so question #1. Why would you run the DynaJunk spring? Are you running the Factory Pro needle, or the DynaJunk needle (i'm guessing since you are running 3 1/2 clips it is not a factory needle)??? And if you are running Factory Pro jets why wouldn't you run ALL Factory Pro Parts. That would make tuning much easier! Since we are running the same jet sizes from the same supplier and the same intake and both have after market pipes I will list my setting, I am regularly getting 40 + mpg or over (Best mpg I have gotten since I did this install was right at 50 mpg, and I rarely get down into the 38 mpg range and that is usually freeway riding at 80 mph with a head or quartering head wind! I rode from California to Colorado and crossed the Continental Divide at about 13,000 ft all without touching my A/F needle and with plenty of power

I am running all Factory Pro! A #58 idle jet, #220 main jet, needle at 3 1/2 clip, A/F 2 1/4 turns open from lightly seated and the factory spring (unmodified).
 

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I spoke with mark on the phone a few months ago when I did the Aries 1. He told me that he runs the dynajet spring and likes it better than the factory pro. I had the dyna jet and changed it out for the factory pro but put the dynajet spring back in it. All other parts are factory pro. I am at 2 1/2 turns but have not fine tuned that yet because I want to get the jets and the needle right first. Based on the info from Charlie in this write up I need to move the needle up. Later in the write up it was stated that any more than 4th clip and you need to go down one on the main jet. That is why I am seeking more info. I figured the less times I have to take it apart the better.
 

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Changed out to a 215 this morning. Going to see what that does. Then I will follow the next steps to get the needle and the A/F adjusted.
 
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