[wnc vtx1300]

I just recently purchased a 2006 vtx1300C. I have put Freedom Performance sharp curve radius exhaust on it but still have stock breather. When riding, it would hesitate when accelerating after having slowed down for a turn. So I bought the factory pro stage 3 jet kit. I have the needle on the 3rd notch, a 215 main but left the 55 pilot jet. Actually I initially put in the 58 pilot jet but the bike wouldn't rev up. It still doesn't rev up when i put the 55 pilot jet back in. I am about 2200 feet in elevation. Not sure where to go from here. Anybody have any suggestions? Thanks in advance for the help!!

 

[FRNKCAT]

Stock filter in breather still or K & N??

Check the diaphragm in Spring/needle area (where you put the clip on 3)..
That rubber like diaphragm may be cracked or have a pin hole. Hold it up to a light and smooth/stretch it out carefully as you look....

Needle on 3 is about same as stock setting, try a washer under it at 3 1/2 or even to 4 to see if that helps.
4 will be to much with stock breather and filter ~ would be OK with K&N filter (30% more air)....

But check that diaphragm good, and make sure it gets seated properly when put back in..
Also check vacuum hoses etc for vacuum leak..



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[wnc vtx1300]

Stock filter. The diaphragm is in good shape and seated properly (I made sure to check this since I've had that issue on other motors). I haven't been able to find a vacuum leak either (but that doesn't mean there isn't one). I will pick up a K&N air filter tomorrow and move the needle to 4 and see what happens. I will let you know. THANKS!

 

[exharleydude]

Did you clean the carb out good? Did you blow compressed air thru every single port in the carb? It only takes a minute piece of garbage to clog some of those ports.

 

[Bassdude404]

215 main is too big for a stock airbox...

 

[mjklaser]

Stock filter. The diaphragm is in good shape and seated properly (I made sure to check this since I've had that issue on other motors). I haven't been able to find a vacuum leak either (but that doesn't mean there isn't one). I will pick up a K&N air filter tomorrow and move the needle to 4 and see what happens. I will let you know. THANKS!

check the tightness of the hose clamps on the thick rubber boot behind the carb that connects the carb to the intake manifold... and I agree with Bassdude that 215 is too large for stock air... go 210... and do I understand correctly that your problems started or got worse after you did the re-jet?

 

[wnc vtx1300]

check the tightness of the hose clamps on the thick rubber boot behind the carb that connects the carb to the intake manifold... and I agree with Bassdude that 215 is too large for stock air... go 210... and do I understand correctly that your problems started or got worse after you did the re-jet?

Yes my problems got worse with the re-jet. Initially I was having to choke it to start and keep it running until it warmed up (in 80 degree weather) and it had somewhat of a hiccup when i would accelerate after slowing down even though i wasn't really getting on it. after the re-jet, it starts up great with no choke but won't rev up, it gets better as it warms up though. it doesn't go away it just revs better.... ill try the 210, but I'm wondering if the stock 195 main with the 58 slow jet would work?? Thoughts on this?? Thanks!!

 

[FRNKCAT]

 

[FRNKCAT]

In my opinion (for what its worth) As long as you have the stock Filter, you can go back to stock 55 Pilot and 195 main... Not enough air for larger jets. Just do the SCAR mod & Set A/F at about 2 ~ 2 1/4 turns out....

Or at least get a K&N filter for more air and then rejet....

http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php/45937-carb-and-what-affects-what



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[sumdatx]

Haven't seen anything about where you have the a/f screw set. As a general rule, a stock airbox with after-market pipes does not require a rejet. When you open up the air flow to the carb, then you rejet. But keep in mind that these bikes came out of the box set pretty lean to pass emisson testing. I bet you have your answer and just need to try it: 58 slow, 195 main, set the a/f at 2 turns out and see what you've got. Make sure the vent hose at the right/back of the tank is attached. Never hurts to go back over vacuum hoses and clamps (carb to manifold, manifold to heads per 'Lazer). There's a tiny little filter screen fitting just inside the fuel inlet on the carb. As fine as the wire is, wouldn't take much crud to interfere with good fuel flow. After everything else you've been in to, piece of cake for you to check.
Just a mechanical thing -- something you will chase down :mosh:

ps: Could check your plugs too. Back in 2011, mine was running "doggy" a little -- not normal. I pulled the plugs and found the rears were pretty dark. Also found a spark plug wire had pulled loose from the cap -- I was running on 1 plug on the rear cylinder. Easy fix to the wire. Ran some Seafoam thru it. Good to go.

 

[wnc vtx1300]

Haven't seen anything about where you have the a/f screw set. As a general rule, a stock airbox with after-market pipes does not require a rejet. When you open up the air flow to the carb, then you rejet. But keep in mind that these bikes came out of the box set pretty lean to pass emisson testing. I bet you have your answer and just need to try it: 58 slow, 195 main, set the a/f at 2 turns out and see what you've got. Make sure the vent hose at the right/back of the tank is attached. Never hurts to go back over vacuum hoses and clamps (carb to manifold, manifold to heads per 'Lazer). There's a tiny little filter screen fitting just inside the fuel inlet on the carb. As fine as the wire is, wouldn't take much crud to interfere with good fuel flow. After everything else you've been in to, piece of cake for you to check.
Just a mechanical thing -- something you will chase down :mosh:

ps: Could check your plugs too. Back in 2011, mine was running "doggy" a little -- not normal. I pulled the plugs and found the rears were pretty dark. Also found a spark plug wire had pulled loose from the cap -- I was running on 1 plug on the rear cylinder. Easy fix to the wire. Ran some Seafoam thru it. Good to go.

Thanks for all the help guys I really do appreciate it! I am good at taking things apart and getting them back together, but I am not not a carb genius at all...

sumdatx i have the glens a/f screw so that is easily changed. I have been going between 1.5 and 3 turns and everything in between for every carb setup I've tried. what is your opinion on the needle? 2, 3, or 4 from the blunt end? Thanks!

 

[mjklaser]

Haven't seen anything about where you have the a/f screw set. As a general rule, a stock airbox with after-market pipes does not require a rejet. When you open up the air flow to the carb, then you rejet. But keep in mind that these bikes came out of the box set pretty lean to pass emisson testing. I bet you have your answer and just need to try it: 58 slow, 195 main, set the a/f at 2 turns out and see what you've got. Make sure the vent hose at the right/back of the tank is attached. Never hurts to go back over vacuum hoses and clamps (carb to manifold, manifold to heads per 'Lazer). There's a tiny little filter screen fitting just inside the fuel inlet on the carb. As fine as the wire is, wouldn't take much crud to interfere with good fuel flow. After everything else you've been in to, piece of cake for you to check.
Just a mechanical thing -- something you will chase down :mosh:

ps: Could check your plugs too. Back in 2011, mine was running "doggy" a little -- not normal. I pulled the plugs and found the rears were pretty dark. Also found a spark plug wire had pulled loose from the cap -- I was running on 1 plug on the rear cylinder. Easy fix to the wire. Ran some Seafoam thru it. Good to go.

wnc vtx1300: I think you should listen to sumdatx, here... and let us know how it does. I would stay around the 3rd, 3-1/2 notch from blunt end, in your case, without extra air...

 

[mjklaser]

...one thing to add... personally, I've never been down your road before - I let in more air first, then rejetted - so I'm not perfectly certain whether the 195 or 210 would be best for your setup... I think the 210 would have helped mine, had I gone your route... but you can't be certain 'til you try it...

 

[wnc vtx1300]

just wanted to add that i will be letting in more air eventually... just not at the moment. my pipes set me back a little more than i had expected but they look and sound better than i could have hoped!!

 

[wnc vtx1300]

IT'S FIXED!!! Thanks for all the input guys! Here is what I ended up with - 58 slow, 195 main, 4th notch from the blunt end on the needle and about 2 1/4 turns out on the a/f. It runs great now! I am going to put new plugs in it and check them after 100 or so miles and see how they look. Although I will have to go through this again when i get a different breather. It never ends but that's part of the fun right?! Stay safe and have fun everybody!

 

[cueballblaster]

Just wanted to add that you don't need any fancy breather. Get yourself a k&n filter then decap your stock box. You would be amazed at the difference it makes. Then there is no need to spend all the money on a hypercharger, which by the way will probably make it really hard to reach you read brake pedal.

 

[Vinish]

You very likely do NOT need new plugs. Just use a brass wire brush and clean the old ones, check the gap, install them, and ride.

G'day,

Vinish

 

[Bassdude404]

http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php/41360-Airbox-decapitation-how-to