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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I removed my carb and am cleaning it and rebuilding it. I'm installing a Glenn's permanent AF screw adjuster and I'm re-jetting it. Here's the thing though: I'm bone stock. Exhaust, intake, all stock (by preference). However, when I bought the bike from the prior owner, it had aftermarket stuff on it, including one of those Kuryakyn hyperchargers. Apparently, that unit came with a carb adjustment kit. The top cap on the carb is aftermarket, and strangely it was jetted at 185/65. That's not stock I don't think. I'm not sure what the stock idle jet is, but I don't think it was 65. Stock main jet should have been 195, per the parts catalogue.

I picked up a Factory Pro kit, but it only came with 210, 215, 220, 225 main jets and a single 58 pilot jet.

Here is my question: When reassembling this carb, I'd like to do so in the configuration that will give me the greatest chance of success the first try. I will have the Glenn's extender installed so will be able to adjust that "on the go", but I REALLY don't want to have to pull the tank and stuff a second time. There are enough VTX'ers out there that have blazed this path already. I'm bone stock, 2004 1300S, 9,300 miles, and I don't need any stellar performance. It's just a cruiser.

What combinations have been most successful for you?

Main jet/pilot/needle shim count/and AF screw turns?

Thanks.
 

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78 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have not run the bike yet, but I did reassemble the carb with 210 main, FP needle on 3rd clip with one shim (3.5 basically), 58 pilot, and 1 3/4 A/F turns. I also installed the Glenn's extender. Hopefully this is a good combination.
 

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It is a mistake to try too hard to get the settings correct the first time. Every bike is different and the optimum settings on your bike are likely to differ from another bike even if the two bikes have identical setups (air filter, airbox, pipes, etc.). Removing the airbox, dash, and tank to access the carb is easy. When I was tuning the carb on my wife's bike, I could pull everything necessary off the bike and have it ready to change carb setup in about 10 minutes. You should start with whatever carb settings are recommended to you and if those work well, then great. You are done. In the likely event they do not work optimally, just follow the tuning steps in the "Carb, what effects what" thread and you will be able to quickly and easily tune your carb settings/jets to their optimum performance. Do not fear removing and reinstalling the airbox, dash, and tank. Also, you should think about decapping the airbox and installing a high flow air filter (e.g. K&N) before you begin this tuning process. Also do the pair valve mod if not already done.
 
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