[Trout_Finder]

I am new member to this forum, although I have be a frequent visitor for several years. I have what I hope is a quick question. I have recently cleaned the carburetor on my 2009 1300C and I now have an air box that is filling up with gas (clean) when I run the engine. I have identified the port on the carburetor where the gas is being pushed into the airbox. Can anyone tell me what this port is connected to inside the carb and where or why I would have gas running out of it? I am pointing to port in picture below.

My guess is a sticking float, but would like to verify so I know what parts to have on hand before I tear into it again. I did not use a rebuild kit the first time, just a cleaning and reassembly of existing parts. Bike is completely stock (airbox, pipes, carb settings and jetting).

If interested, the following is the full agonizing story and reason for question. I bought the bike used in 2011 and other than being a little cold natured, the bike never had any issues starting or running. I used the bike as a commuter bike in central Illinois. I relocated to SE Missouri and started working primarily from home so the bike was not used as regularly, but still no issues starting and running. About 2 years ago the front fork seals failed and the battery was bad. I moved the bike to a storage unit about a mile from my home with the intent of replacing the battery and seals within the next couple of months. So, about 2 years later, I am getting around to getting it out of storage and back on the road. I had sea foam in the tank when I put it in storage since it was near the end of the riding season.

Issues due to my own negligence. (I know, I know...... I should have been running the engine regularly since the reason it was sitting had nothing to do with how the bike ran)
Rusted tank, fork seals leaking, dead battery, would not start (gunked up carb).

I am only an average shade tree mechanic on my best day, so I was not sure if I was biting off more than I could chew here. But my nearest dealer is 1 1/2 hours away, so I just dug in.

I started by removing tank and cleaning the carburetor. Everything on the carburetor was clogged or varnish covered. I removed and cleaned the jets, float, float valve, accelerator pump, etc. I did not remove the top vacuum chamber of carb, just cleaned the needle with carb cleaner. I also did not do anything to the A/F screw other than shoot some cleaner in the hole. I put everything back together. In the mean time, I took the tank home and drained all the old nasty gas. I tried to rinse the rust, but determined it was going to take a more intense removal process. I needed to get the bike home, so I put a cheap inline filter on the bike and new gas in tank. I hoped the filter would keep the rust out of my nice clean carb. The motorcycle fired right up. I ran it about 10 minutes to get it to the house.

I again removed the tank and filled with 4 gallons of vinegar and 70 nuts. I soaked the tank for about 30 hours and shook vigorously every few hours. I was a little skeptical, but it worked great. Once I gave the tank a good rinse and dry, the rust was gone. Things were looking up. I bought a new tank filter screen (could only find pieces of old one in tank) and reassembled the tank.

I had never done fork seals before, so I was not sure exactly how that process would go as well. After viewing a few YouTube videos, I jumped in. The front wheel and fork removal went easier than expected. As soon as I cracked the first drain valve I knew I needed more than just a seal kit. I saw the metallic color in the oil and I knew I would need to replace the slider and bushings as well. So, off to my "not so local" Honda dealer for parts. I took my time and after a $10 fork tool rental from a truly local bike shop, the forks went back together. No leaks from what I could tell. Front end reassembled.

Yes! I am ready to get this thing to the inspection station and get the license renewed. Filled with gas, it fired right up with just a little choke pulled. I reached down to close choke and thought "why was my hand wet"? Yep, pet cock diaphragm leaking. Ordered the replacement diaphragm and it went together pretty easily. Took it around the block a few times to make sure it was holding.

Ok. Now I am ready for the state inspection! First, a quick Sunday evening ride across town to my Mom's. Bike acted like it was flooded when I started it this time. I thought that was a little odd since I had never had that issue before. Bike fired on up and ran ok for the short ride. I get off the bike and notice gas dripping from my air intake. Aaaargggg. Now what did I do? No tools on the bike because they are still strung out in my garage. So I get the bike back home, remove the air box cover and sure enough, the air filter is wet and the lower end of box if full of gas. I remove the gas from the air box, then carefully restart the bike with filter removed to locate where the gas is coming from. It started and idled ok, had a very slight backfire at carburetor, then the gas started running out of the carburetor orifice in the photo above. I shut it off and now trying to figure out my next move. I also plan to order Glens AF permanent install kit since I have to get back into the carb anyway. So, back to my original question. Does anyone know where the gas may be coming from and why?

 

[Vinish]

I am not sure what that orifice in the air box connects to. A sticking carb float does sound likely, however. Especially since you took that apart and reassembled it.

You say in regards to the front forks, "As soon as I cracked the first drain valve ..." What drain valves are you talking about? I did not think the VTX1300 has for drain valves but I could be wrong. I thought that the bolt near the bottom of the forks is NOT a drain valve but, rather, holds some internal pieces in place. Perhaps someone with more knowledge of VTX1300 forks than I have can confirm or refute my understanding. If I am correct, are you sure that you got these bolts back in place properly and connected to whatever parts inside the fork they are supposed to secure?

 

[Trout_Finder]

Vinish, You are absolutely correct and my terminology is wrong. I intended to use the lower bolt to drain the forks while still on bike. My mistake with the forks is that I probably should have removed the top cap and taken pressure off forks before I removed the lower bolt. I loosened the top cap but did not remove. Thus, I would have kept the oil from shooting under pressure into my drain pan, garage floor and shoes. Resulted in an unhappy wife and small cleanup . I did reassemble the forks with the bolts as you mention so I think the reassembly is good.

I think I will order a carb rebuilt kit. I looked at All Balls, but they do not have any description or photos of what is included in their kit on the web page. I have emailed company for a parts list, but no reply after a week. I don't want to assume that it includes a new float valve. If anyone has purchased recently and could confirm that would be helpful. Or other suggested vendors.

 

[Vinish]

I know very little about carb rebuild kits but I suspect they will contain rubber parts and not the hard plastic bowl float and the associated valve. I could be wrong. When you take the carb apart, look at the bowl float and see if there is any gas inside it which would indicate a leak.

Perhaps you need a rebuild kit and perhaps you do not. I am sure that your bike would benefit from a carb rejet. If you do this, use ONLY a Factory Pro jet kit.

 

[darrenbashby]

Vinish, You are absolutely correct and my terminology is wrong. I intended to use the lower bolt to drain the forks while still on bike. My mistake with the forks is that I probably should have removed the top cap and taken pressure off forks before I removed the lower bolt. I loosened the top cap but did not remove. Thus, I would have kept the oil from shooting under pressure into my drain pan, garage floor and shoes. Resulted in an unhappy wife and small cleanup . I did reassemble the forks with the bolts as you mention so I think the reassembly is good.

I think I will order a carb rebuilt kit. I looked at All Balls, but they do not have any description or photos of what is included in their kit on the web page. I have emailed company for a parts list, but no reply after a week. I don't want to assume that it includes a new float valve. If anyone has purchased recently and could confirm that would be helpful. Or other suggested vendors.

What is the brass rod above the orifice? Is it a choke plunger? If the rubbers are leaking on the choke, it may flood out the carb when the engine is not running, and would run rick all the time.

 

[Trout_Finder]

When I started the bike, you could see gas enter the carburetor at the accelerator pump (as expected when twisting throttle) and flow at the needle (also as expected). I did not see flow inside the carb at any other spots that may show signs of a leak. The orifice at the end of the siphon tube in the photo is where the gas started running back into the air box. This port is separated from the main carb air intake with a gasket behind the air box and with the small arc around the orifice on the air box design. Therefore, I assume it is intended to be separated from the high velocity air stream caused by the carb throat and provide a low velocity location to allow air to either draw or vent to something in the carb. I am just not sure where it stars inside the carb. Unfortunately, I have not been able to locate any cut away views of the carb interior that may solve the mystery. I plan to find time this weekend to get into the carb again and see if I can figure it out.

I am also not sure what the brass rod is that you are referring. I will try to figure that out as well and will check for potential leaks.

 

[darrenbashby]

I am also not sure what the brass rod is that you are referring. I will try to figure that out as well and will check for potential leaks.
[/QUOTE]
The one I have the arrow pointing to. It is right above the orifice, and I was wondering if that is part of the choke.

 

[07Blackcherry]

You may find some of your answers here


Carb Cleaning 101 | Honda VTX Forum (vtxoa.com)

 

[JRock9648]

What is the brass rod above the orifice? Is it a choke plunger? If the rubbers are leaking on the choke, it may flood out the carb when the engine is not running, and would run rick all the time.

The brass plunger that you're referring to is the business end of the starting enrichment valve, which you guys are referring to as the choke. Your excess gas flowing into the carb is coming through the starting enrichment valve. I'd be willing to bet that if you reach over on the other side and push your choke plunger in that your excess fuel flow will stop. And next time that little choke knob Wiggles its way out I suggest not riding that bike until you push that plunger back in. Where that fuel comes out of your airbox is awful close to your exhaust. I've seen two two of these bikes go up in flames because someone thought they were pulling a choke. Unless you live in Saskatchewan you should most likely never need to use that starting enrichment valve. I hope this helps. And as always keep it twisted!!

 

[Vinish]

If your choke knob/lever is not staying closed, you can try tightening the plastic nut behind it. This may help to prevent the choke knob/lever from pulling loose. However, do NOT tighten this plastic nut with a wrench. Use only your hands to tighten it or maybe, once you have got it as tight as your hands can go, tighten VERY slightly with a wrench. This plastic nut will break if tightened too much with a wrench. Breaking this nut is not very hard to do so I advise only using your hand to tighten it.

 

[Trout_Finder]

Update on the carb. I took the float bowl off and sprayed a little cleaner into the orifice where the bike was leaking gas. It is tied into the main jet, so this must be a small built in overflow or a vent / equalization line for the main jet. The float looked to be operating properly without sticking, but I went ahead and removed and inspected the float valve. The float did not appear to have any gas in it, it would float fine is the bowl full of gas, and the float valve would stop flow when lightly seated. I did not see any issues, so cleaned and reinstalled. I pulled the main jet and cleaned again. I also checked the main jet size, and it is a 190 main. I pulled and cleaned the pilot jet as well, it is a 55 (I assume these are the stock jets). I put the bike back together enough to run and it continued to push gas out the orifice. I covered the orifice with my finger and about 15 seconds later it started leaking out the carburetor overflow line. I was now puzzled, but everything still looked back to the float valve not shutting off. This was the only place that it could have that much gas coming into (and therefore out of) the carb. Removed bowl again and tried to slightly bend the float and tried to check the float setting. This was a bit difficult without the proper tool but it seemed to be close. I checked air flow through the gas line and I could shut air off by lifting and seating the float valve. Still a little baffled, so put back together. I tried the clear tube trick to check the float. Filled carb with gas, opened drain line and the gas in carb stopped 4-5 millimeters below the bowl gasket line. Looked like it may have seated this time. Started bike and the gas leak stopped. So, I don't trust the float valve, so will order a replacement. I reassembled the tank enough to get the bike started and running (no air box), but it ran very poorly. It would barely idle, but cleared up when opened the enrichment valve. I could give it gas very slowly, but would start to die at about 1/4 throttle (when main jet needle started to move). I figured it was running very lean due to the increased air flow with no filter installed. I went ahead and put the air box on, with filter and it was even worse. It idled for a short time, then died and I could not get it to fire back up. Frustrated and this point, so pushed it back in the garage. I figure I will start back at the beginning and work my way through the issues again. First, new float valve assembly. Then I may consider whether to change out the jets. I also need to get Glens AF screw since I have made no adjustments to the AF (no tool). The float valve and AF screw are easy. I am not sure about the jets. I will read through a few more threads and see if I can figure out the best path forward.

 

[Vinish]

Best of luck. Sounds like a carb rejet/tune will help.

 

[Sparkyjr67]

Did you ever definitely find the problem? I'm having the same issue with mine as well