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Discussion Starter #1
So I got my bike.. Everything was fine on the way home. The guy who had owned it before GUTTED the exhaust. He removed the baffles completely in an effort to make it sound more like a harley. He installed LED's and extra chrome.. I needed to adjust the throttle cable a little tighter because there was to much play in it.. I am thinking there is the possibility he played with the Carb or re-jetted it because of that... I am wondering if he did something else also. Just not sure..


The bike has 2950 miles on it..

Here is my dilema -

I went out for a ride last night
The first 7-10 minutes was fine but as the bike went on it started to choke out whenever I would come on the throttle.. I wasnt going heavy on it.. It backfires like a son of a bitch when I am downshifting.. and if I try to come on the throttle from a stop light it will sputter sputter and want to choke out so I try using the clutch to help work it in and it DOES NOT HELP it still wants to choke out. Any more than about 1/8 turn throttle and it will not accelerate.. wants to die.. The choke was pushed all the way in..

I found when sitting at a stoplight that there is a lot of exhaust coming from where the exhaust meets the manifold... It also smells a little rich



My plans -
I purchased a stock exhaust (craigslist $90)
I am going to open the airbox and check to make sure everything is good
I am going to install the stock exhaust with baffles and the new seals I purchased
I am going to check the idle and make sure that it is not to high (it seems like it might be)
I am going to check the drain tube below the airbox (looks like it has some gunnk in it)
I am going to take out the spark plugs and check the condition


Question -

What else should I do?
I am in my planning stages and am going to begin maintenance on monday morning.
 

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gutted pipes means no back preasure and will be poor running and throttle.

back fire is normal and proper stock pipes hide it, you can remove the pair valves and get rid of most if not all the backfire.

if the choke is used it should be per the manual (no more than 30 seconds or so) it will foul the plugs if used to long.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was kinda thinking back pressure... Which is why I got the stock exhaust to put back on... I will end up doing a clayton mod on it...

But I am hoping that will fix the problem..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh... I plan on doing the Scar mod... but first I need to get my hands on the stock jet.. just in case it had been re-jetted... So... I need to get it running correctly first.. then in a little bit.. probably next month.. once I have the extended a/f screw and the jets.. I will do the SCAR...
 

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The first thing to do is stop the exhaust leak, you may find that most of your problems are cured, even with the exhaust gutted the size of the stock header pipe provides considerable back pressure. Amost any aftermarket pipes will have less back pressure than the stock pipes gutted.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well hopefully changing the exhaust... putting on new gaskets.. and proper torque will take care of the leak...
 

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you can pull the slider out of the carb and see if it has the stock needle, real quick to do.

the so called exhaust leak is just the pair system, you would need the block off plates to get that fixed
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So that is normal?
How will I know if it is the stock needle or not?



With those things being said... what do you recommend that my steps of troubleshooting/fixing are?
 

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the slider has a plastic cap insid it that holds the needle in place you take it loose and look at the needle if it has grooves it is after market no grooves and it is stock.

if it is an after market needle you can move the e clip one position closer to the tip, if the needle is stock you would need a shim washer all the info is in the scar write up.

you will also need to reset the pilot screw per the write up.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am trying to avoid pulling the carb rite now... I dont want to pull the carb until I have the new A/F screw... However I am trying to fix my problem... so with the exception of the things that I listed above.. is there anything else that I should be trying in order to fix this?

I plan on making sure that the carb is tuned correctly.. But really wanna do that one time rather than pull it now to check the jet and then pull it in a week or so to change the A/F screw...
 

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nothing we do involves pulling the carb.

you have a choice practice what you know you are going to have to do and get used to where things are or just ride it the way it is till you get the new screw
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I cant ride it.... It chokes out and doesnt run...

Is the exhaust coming out from what seems to be around the pair system normal?
 

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the pair system just injects fresh air into the exhaust ports up at the head.

the probelm you have is pre exhaust.

actually thinking about it you may have some water in the float bowl it will spit and sputter when you give it gas and even bog to the point shutting off.

to bad I am on the wong coast I could have it running very good in less than an hour.
 

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If you are feeling air coming out where the exhaust connects to the head it has nothing to do with the pair valve it is an exhaust leak. The pair valve can cause the bike to backfire on decel but will not cause the bike to run bad.
 

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Have you checked the spark plugs yet???....Those will give you an indication of if you're lean, rich, or spot-on with the carb tuning at this point...That's the only thing I can think of that the other guys didn't cover yet...:hmm2:
 

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If you are feeling air coming out where the exhaust connects to the head it has nothing to do with the pair valve it is an exhaust leak. The pair valve can cause the bike to backfire on decel but will not cause the bike to run bad.
that's what i'm thinking, cause i run open pipes and have no issues with backfiring or running bad. if i'm not mistaken, you run pretty close to open pipes don't you?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Tomorrow I am going to start taking things apart...
First off will be the exhaust...
Then the spark plugs..
Then the Air filter cover..
Drain the hose under the airbox (I dont remember what it is called)

Then see where I stand and if I need to tear it down any further.
 

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Drain the hose under the airbox (I dont remember what it is called)

.


crankcase drain tube..........

do the pair removal if it hasn't been done, it's worth the 10 minutes it takes to do it.......
 

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Discussion Starter #20
In the process of my repairs/troubleshooting... First thing I noticed... After removing the exhaust.. The forward exhaust flange was installed upside down ("up" was on the low side) and there are burn/exhaust marks on the head next to it...

Will post up more as I continue
 
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