[Dancermatt]

I'm a new member and having a great time reading the hundreds of posts. I just bought my 06, 1300vtxR and I LOVE it coming off my 750 Shadow. I'm going to be doing the Decap Mod, K & N Filter, Pair Valve/DeSmog, Factory Pro Jet, and the Clayton Mod - 5 or 7 hole.
First Mod Q - I just purchased a 1/2" x 12" drill bit to put holes in the back of my 2006, 1300VTX R and I'm a little nervous. I'm leaning on either 5 or 7 holes. Making sure to make one hold at the middle bottom. I'm going to make two of the holes deep. My questions are:
1. Where should the two "deep" holes be made?
2. How many est. inches should I go to be considered deep?
3. Can I make the bottom center hole one of the deep holes?

----If there is no DMV inspection for motorcycles in Nevada which plates should I purchase for the Pair Valve Removal/De-Smog Mod? Dimple or Non Dimple?

----Where's the best prices for K & N Filters for my bike?

---- Where do I order "Glen's Permenant A/F?
-----What does A/F stand for?
---- Any additional advice please place here! God bless you all, Matt

 

[namrekca]

http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php/855-Drilled-out-my-pipes!!!

Check out this link for the Clayton mod. It helped me out.

 

[BryanN]

Dimpled pair valve plates, google glensvtxgarage, a/f stands for air/fuel

 

[Dancermatt]

Namrekca, I appreciate the reference and it is one of the many posts I've read but it does not answer my specific questions in regards to the best holes to do "Long"....and if the bottom hole can or should be one of the holes that are drilled long and how long in inches should I go? Please read my questions in my post and see if you can answer any of them...it would be great help. I want to drill out pipes tomorrow. Thanks, Matt

 

[Dancermatt]

Great, will do...I'm getting exicted, starting with drilling pipes tomorrow.

 

[Dancermatt]

Bryan, thanks for Glen's page...very cool stuff...I'm ordering the AF Permanent Tool and the flag holder and the...mife wife stoped me there! LOL

 

[BryanN]

Clayton mod, drill 1/2 in holes in outer plate, up to I think six. At the six oclock position you will need a long drill bit and some just leave it at that. I did just the outer plate and was happy. But now I have cobra slip on mufflers to put on

 

[Dancermatt]

Bryan, There's a guy on here who is very well known who advises to do 7 + 2 deep. I've seen 5 and no deep. My main concern is do I make the 6 O-Clock hole one of the deep ones and I guess from your response that is the case. I think I'm goint to start with 5 + 2 deep, making one of the deep ones the 6-oclock. I'm doing this tomorrow so I'll let this post know how it came out and take pics.

 

[BryanN]

It may have been 7 but yes the six oclock spot will be the deep ones, I would just do the outer plate, no deep ones and see how you like it first.

 

[Dancermatt]

Bryan, There's a guy on here who is very well known who advises to do 7 + 2 deep. I've seen 5 and no deep. My main concern is do I make the 6 O-Clock hole one of the deep ones and I guess from your response that is the case. I think I'm goint to start with 5 + 2 deep, making one of the deep ones the 6-oclock. I'm doing this tomorrow so I'll let this post know how it came out and take pics.

 

[Gonzo1970]

1. Where should the two "deep" holes be made?
2. How many est. inches should I go to be considered deep?
3. Can I make the bottom center hole one of the deep holes?


http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=VTX+1300+Clayton+Mod




If there is no DMV inspection for motorcycles in Nevada which plates should I purchase for the Pair Valve Removal/De-Smog Mod? Dimple or Non Dimple?

Dimpled plates are easiest since you dont have to mess with the Reed Valves.. They have screws in them that are Tiny and a Pain in the ass to get out/off. The Dimpled Plates simply make room for the screw heads so you dont have to mess with them. Dimpled Plates are the way to go.


----Where's the best prices for K & N Filters for my bike?

Don't bother. They're over rated and over priced.

---- Where do I order "Glen's Permenant A/F?

www.glensvtxgarage.com

-----What does A/F stand for?

Air/Fuel Mix Adjuster


---- Any additional advice please place here! God bless you all, Matt

Pretty much everything you need to learn about is here already. Look thru the forums and specifically the stickied posts. Tons of information.

Clayton Mod, Glen's Permanent A/F, SCAR Mod, Decap Airbox, Spyker Mod, Steering Bearings, Glen's Clutch Pull Relief are all topics you should consider reading about.

-Gonz

 

[Dancermatt]

Gonz, thanks...I appreciate you addressing each question and for the Mod suggestions. I'll look them up for sure. Some I've seen allready and great posts for sure. I'm starting with the drilling of the pipes tomorrow. Then on to the others, one at a time. Thanks, Matt

 

[IndyX]

Deep at 6 o'clock to get the deeper sound.
Rest of holes you can go deep but personally I found nothing else in there to drill through.

K&N is expensive but doesn't hurt if you really want it, it will last the life of the bike.
More needed if you decap your airbox since water won't hurt it like the stock paper filter.

http://www.glensvtxgarage.com/ For the A/F screw.

 

[Chris W]

Bryan, thanks for Glen's page...very cool stuff...I'm ordering the AF Permanent Tool and the flag holder and the...mife wife stoped me there! LOL

You need to get the Clutch Pull Relief also from Glens !!

 

[Chris W]

I Recently done a bunch of mods also:
Hard Krome American Classic Exhaust
PAIR valve removed
Airbox Decapped
Spyker Hurricane Air Intake
K&N Air Filter
Best price on K&N, is at amazon $45, as IndyX said, if you Decap you will need it
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E2ALJ4/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00

Factory Pro Stage 3 re-jet (215, 58)
Amazon also best price on FP III Kit $58
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00317BCZQ/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00

Glen's Perm A/F screw
Glen's Clutch Pull Relief

 

[Dancermatt]

Indyx, thanks for responding...should I do the De-Smog/Pair Valve Mod if I'm going to do the Clayton Mod on Pipes so I don't get popping and back fire? Can I do the pipes and then the Pair Valve a few days later while riding bike? Matt

 

[Dancermatt]

I saw the Clutch Pull Relief on Glen's page. It makes pulling clutch in mutch easier? This would be great since I use only one or two fingers to pull clutch in so I can keep some fingers around handle and thumb on horn switch. I could use an extra finger!!!

 

[BryanN]

Dancer,

yes you can drill the pipes and then remove the pair valve, glad you have found all the answers you have been looking for, the folks on this site are great and very helpful.

 

[Cutter]

I messed with mine a few times and this is what I found...

First I drilled (5) 3/8" holes through the end in a smiley face pattern, one of them into the lower baffle at 6 o'clock. On a C model, you can hit the baffle with a standard bit if you bury it. I had more volume but still didn't like the sound.

So then I went to 6 or 7 holes and made them bigger, and took out the whole end of the baffle. Sounded way better.
rode it like that for a few weeks and decided to mess around a little more.

I ended up pulling off the heat shields and end caps and cut off the angled portion of the end of the muffler with my metal cut-off saw, drilled a couple deep holes with a 13" long bit, & re-installed everything. Sounds pretty good. Will still go to Bubs later when I can afford it but is the best stock home-brew exhaust mod I've heard. There's def a deeper lope in the idle. Pair removal improved the decel sound a lot too. I used the dimpled plates and kept the removed parts in case I catch hell when I move back to Cali one of these days.

When drilling the deep holes, pull the mufflers off and look in the back end. If you angle it down from your eye, you'll see daylight. I tried to drill the deep holes in-line with the inlet so I could see straight through. My 6 o'clock hole went through the baffle with the end taken out and then punched deeper with a 13" bit, and the other deep hole is at 12 also burying a 13" bit.

It's hard to mess it up, just don't punch through the side of the pipe and use lots of lube or you'll kill your bits. What ever you do to one, do to the other. Don't worry about loosing back pressure. Keep poking holes in it until you get the sound and volume you like.

more/bigger holes in the end cap will give you more volume, deeper holes and taking out the end of the baffle will give you a deeper idle and more bark with throttle blip.

Glens Clutch Pull Relief is well worth the money. You'll know why first time you are stuck in traffic.