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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone else out there have a Fi2000 EFI tuner?
I was wondering what settings they were using. My 03 1800 vtx
has a hypercharger, vance and hines exhaust. when i got it used
it had straight pipes, but i have since put the baffles in.

It has an idle setting, mid range, and high range settings.

any idea what the best combo of settings are?
 

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Master Chromer
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I found the settings cobra sent them 2 me on as "recommended" were WAAAAY 2 rich.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will have to check mine again, and see what they are set on.
i dont smell gas or anything, doens't seem to run rich so far.

i will check my mileage and see if i am getting less than the average...
 

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Master Chromer
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yup, that's how they sent it 2 me as a "recommended" setting for my bike but I found it was waaay 2 rich. Was sooting up the pipes and didn't have as much power.
 

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I have the 2006 C model with K&N Filter, cobra speedsters, and quiet baffles. I set mine at 2-1-0 runs great, 41mpg average. Factory recommendation is way too rich!

DShrek
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would seem like 0 on the full throttle setting would be to low,
that would be same as the factory FI setting even though
there has been intake and exhaust changes. I would think you
would want more fuel than that? I changed mine from 3-4-5 to
2-3-0, and i couldn't tell much difference. I have since changed
the 3rd one back to 4. seems to run fine? my understanding is all 0's
are the same as the factory FI settings. (including intake and exhaust)

P.S. I have vance & hines pipes with baffles, and a hypercharger.:hmm2:
 

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Unless you've done some work inside the engine or with injectors and an aftermarket ecm, your VTX is probably lean on the first two pots and rich on the 3rd setting. The only way to be sure is to dyno test the bike and the settings. 9 out of ten aftermarket bolt ons of pipes and air cleaners in year 2006 and later model VTX 1800's will adjust the air fuel limits themselves with the O2 sensor on the top; it is POT 1 and POT 2 that need a little help. If 0-0-0 is stock, and that is not good, follow the instructions and adjust one pot at a time for performance.

Adjust POT 1 to 1/2 the recommended settings in other words if the recommended setting is 5 set it at 2.5 and test ride it. If it is better adjust down by 1/2 again until it gets worse. The go up one half the distance until it gets worse. Adjust POT 1 then 2 then three.

Other wise put it on a Dyno. The last three I adjusted this way came out between 2-2-0 and 2-2-1 for best acceleration, gas mileage and engine temperature.

A more professional solution is a Power Commander and Dyno, but unless you are doing some extensive engine mods you probably will spend a lot more money for similar results.

Good Luck!:patriot:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Unless you've done some work inside the engine or with injectors and an aftermarket ecm, your VTX is probably lean on the first two pots and rich on the 3rd setting. The only way to be sure is to dyno test the bike and the settings. 9 out of ten aftermarket bolt ons of pipes and air cleaners in year 2006 and later model VTX 1800's will adjust the air fuel limits themselves with the O2 sensor on the top; it is POT 1 and POT 2 that need a little help. If 0-0-0 is stock, and that is not good, follow the instructions and adjust one pot at a time for performance.

I have a 2003 C, does that make much difference (O2 sensor)? sorry for all the questions. I went for a ride last nite, and the fuel light started to
go on and off after about 105 miles... some of that was 2 up riding
however. That was with topping the tank off while sitting on it, I haven't
fueled it up to check mileage yet.:icon_eek:

I would think Cobra could get a lot closer on their "recommended" factory settings than they do, I would surely
hope they dyno at least a couple of bikes and do some tuning and testing? They would certainly realize their
'recommended' settings are way to rich....amazing.
 

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Just one final note. The Cobra folks have a disclaimer, see below. Basically after some long explaination they state if their recommended setting does not work you need to tune the FI 2000 as listed below.
The instructions are the same for the 2003 model. I don't think your model vtx has the 02 sensor. I also think the ecm's are different. Honda's made some improvements on the 2006-2008 models that made installing aftermarket pipes for the average guy a little easier. Try the method below. You will get better power, and better mileage. Unless you have a track, to test on or a Dyno, you will not be able to tell about POT #3's results. This is compared to the main jet in a carburator, and it is pretty common knowledge that this is rich enough to handle most aftermarket air systems, unless you add larger throttlebodies. Warm up the engine and take an afternoon to go real slow. The factory setting on the FI 2000R is 4.5-3-0., Try 2-1.5-0, you might be happy with that setting. Let me know how it works out for you. :patriot:
"Excerpt from FI 2000R instructions.
** Only attempt adjustments on a fully warmed motor **​
1. Start with the base setting, Figure 4, even if you have a full exhaust system. Adjust and test only​
ONE​
adjustment pot at a time until you are happy with the result.
2. Start with the left hand or green light pot. This adjustment works either from idle or above idle
(varies with bike) to a R.P.M. of about 5000 (also varies with bike) while the bike is driven at a
steady throttle or slowly increasing throttle. This is the cruise range and is where the emissions
leanness creates issues like choppy on-off throttle application, surging, and backfiring on trailing
throttle.
3. Turn this pot back to zero, and make one position increases until you feel the best performance in
this range. Do this test a few times to make sure you have it right.
4. The middle or yellow pot is an engine load- triggered fuel adding adjustment. A rapid increase of
the throttle at any R.P.M. will add additional fuel and as long as that predetermined load is
present, fuel will continue. As engine loads increase in higher gears the acceleration fuel will stay
on longer and be more effective. Starting with the base setting, test ride the motorcycle in 4
th or
5
th gear and perform moderately fast roll-on throttle from a repeating standard R.P.M. or speed.
Increase the pot one position at a time and stop as soon as you don’t feel any improvement.
5. The right hand or red pot is for the fuel setting required when the engine is maximizing its R.P.M.
and power delivery. This pot is similar to the main jet in a carburetor. It will take a combination of
a minimum R.P.M. and a predetermined amount of engine load to initiate this fuel. The
straightaway on a racetrack or an inertia dyno are the best places to set this pot. Full exhaust
systems of high quality construction increase flow characteristics and will increase fuel demands
over our base settings. Also, air filters specifically designed for higher than stock airflow can
create need for higher fuel setting. Try an additional one-position pot setting at a time.
6. Camshaft changes can alter an engine’s volumetric efficiency and create a greater demand on

the engine’s fuel system than the Fi2000R may have the ability to adjust for.
 

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Mean ol' Mo' Fo'
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417 Posts
For best results get your intake and exhaust mods done first and then have a dyno tuner dial it in.
 
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