Honda VTX 1300 / VTX 1800 Motorcycles Forum banner
21 - 40 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Ok, now I'm all done with the lighting retrofit as the 2 lamp set of headlight LEDs came in. Popped one in this morning and it is much brighter than the stock incandescent for sure.
 

·
Mosin Prime
2019 Indian Roadmaster P3 Tail Light w/Photon Blasters Alert Diode DynamicsLEDs Adaptive2 Headlight
Joined
·
835 Posts
Got some pics of what you have set up now?
 

·
Registered
2009 VTX 1300R, Long Island NY
Joined
·
1,092 Posts
I bought those from that exact link a few months ago. I bought 4 of them, the fit my 1300 R light housings perfectly (front and rear).

I used them to replace my smoked lenses that cracked every time I snapped them in.

I wish this manufacturer made them in smoke, because I am VERY happy with the fit, but my theme is silver and black. With my black daymakers (head light and touring lights) it would look better smoked.

I may buy 4 more and paint them.



This is how it looked with the smoked aftermarket lenses that didn’t fit perfectly:
 
  • Like
Reactions: PaXman11

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,949 Posts
This works pretty well (on the inside)... but be sure to scuff the inside of the lens well. (I used my sandblaster).. It works, and they have a smoke grey but it isn't real dark.
https://www.krylon.com/products/stained-glass-paint/



Oh.. I think I know why you had to re-drill the hole in the solo rack... You have the front brackets backwards. Swap them side-to-side and I think they'll work in the original hole.
 

·
Registered
2009 VTX 1300R, Long Island NY
Joined
·
1,092 Posts
This works pretty well (on the inside)... but be sure to scuff the inside of the lens well. (I used my sandblaster).. It works, and they have a smoke grey but it isn't real dark.
https://www.krylon.com/products/stained-glass-paint/
Thanks. The inside is where all the off angle squares are in order to give the light pattern, I think it would be a nightmare to attempt to scuff it up, and get the paint to actually stick evenly. If the cover was smooth, it would be a perfect idea.

Oh.. I think I know why you had to re-drill the hole in the solo rack... You have the front brackets backwards. Swap them side-to-side and I think they'll work in the original hole.
You are right. I just tried it. BUT, I switched it back to how I had it... I think the way I have it is better, for

1) I can access the fender bolts with the rack in place (loosely assemble, then tighten the fender bolts and rack bolts evenly). Mounted the way they designed it, you have to fully assemble the fender brackets before attaching the rack.

2) The rack actually follows the fender line better the way I have it. With it closer to the seat, the tip at the end of the rack points down towards the fender. With it in the position I have it, it follows the line of the fender (parallel to the fender).

It is a little hard to explain, but I have 0 complaints with having to drill it, I think I improved the design, well, for me at least!

Thanks!
 
  • Like
Reactions: PaXman11

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,949 Posts
It is a little hard to explain, but I have 0 complaints with having to drill it, I think I improved the design, well, for me at least!

Thanks!
I'm just relieved you are happy with it. I couldn't figure out why it "needed" drilled- when the Rack was listed for your exact bike, and it came off my 1800R. I put it on my 1300R and it fit as well. Was worried you'd think I sold it because it wouldn't fit mine.
 

·
Registered
2009 VTX 1300R, Long Island NY
Joined
·
1,092 Posts
I'm just relieved you are happy with it. I couldn't figure out why it "needed" drilled- when the Rack was listed for your exact bike, and it came off my 1800R. I put it on my 1300R and it fit as well. Was worried you'd think I sold it because it wouldn't fit mine.
I am very happy with it! Just used it on a 200+ mile trip from Long Island to Maryland! Held my bag perfectly!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts

·
Registered
2009 VTX 1300R, Long Island NY
Joined
·
1,092 Posts
I just installed one of these halo LED headlights into my 05 1300C and it's so bright that I'm worried it disturbs oncoming traffic (it's the typical brightness of LED's in auto's)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G9JSTD3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will say it cost a lot more than just replacing the light bulb, but it truly is plug-n-play and works both low/high beam and the it also gives your bike a newer appearance.
If you got an adjustable bracket (so you can aim it) you will not blind people. Projector housings focus the light pattern properly. This is only true, if you properly aim it though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Front clear lenses are now in along with the switchback LED's and they're great. Lots more front facing light and the turn signal amber light is plenty bright as well. Just ordered Cobra front floorboards and the Cobra fatty freeway bars are next. Then I'm done. Yeah right.:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
let me guesss you bought cobra bar and it already had signaler and driving light .... you just replaced the bulb inside that cobra signaler? Added daymaker driving lights?? Can you tell me if you had to do it wiring mods to make your signaler work that way with driving light?? Maybe full details on process of that would be nice as I do really love your setup

I have these Switchback LEDs for the front, and have red LEDs for the rear (I have smoked lenses):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M26IHAR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know if your setup already address the low load of LEDs, I have a zero load indicator relay.



As you can see they match my Daymaker headlight, and I now have a Cobra Light bar with 2 Daymaker (4.5") lights:



This setup works well with my GPS Batwing fairing:

 

·
Registered
2009 VTX 1300R, Long Island NY
Joined
·
1,092 Posts
let me guesss you bought cobra bar and it already had signaler and driving light .... you just replaced the bulb inside that cobra signaler? Added daymaker driving lights?? Can you tell me if you had to do it wiring mods to make your signaler work that way with driving light?? Maybe full details on process of that would be nice as I do really love your setup
The cobra light bar comes with the bar and the driving lights only. You remove the OEM indicators and move them to the mounts built into the light bar. With the R model indicators (they mount to a factory bar, unlike C models that mount directly to the forks), you get rid of the factory bracket during this process, and the OEM wires are long enough. I replaced the factory indicator/running light bulbs with LED switchbacks.

The Cobra driving lights have housings inside them, I completely removed the Cobra housing and replaced them with Daymakers that fit inside (4.5" daymakers). I did have to wire in the daymakers, I opted to connect these to the accessory harness that is inside the headlight bucket. The cobra lightbar has a built in switch, I wired that switch through the ground (since the wires are exposed, I wanted to eliminate the risk of shorting).

Cobra light housings removed from Cobra ring:


Daymakers inside the Cobra light rings:


Light bar mounted so you can see inside:
 
  • Like
Reactions: PaXman11

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Ok so you got the switchback led bulb? I did check online to see if it fit 03 vtx1800 and it says no.... yet you still got them and it works id assume??? Maybe specific part number ??
As for wiring them lights ... I will have eagle light with built in turn signaler as my head light and I’ll be having daymaker as my driving light along with stock signaler added on side hmmm for you to know my bike is a 1800C...

As for my driving lights I rather them hooked to my low beam?.... so it’s off when it’s on high beam..: believe it’s the law here in Oregon? Have you done that kind of wiring routine??? As for ground yeah it’s important so tell me more where they should go for best durability? I’m completely new with wiring and can’t afford anyone else doing it lol


The cobra light bar comes with the bar and the driving lights only. You remove the OEM indicators and move them to the mounts built into the light bar. With the R model indicators (they mount to a factory bar, unlike C models that mount directly to the forks), you get rid of the factory bracket during this process, and the OEM wires are long enough. I replaced the factory indicator/running light bulbs with LED switchbacks.

The Cobra driving lights have housings inside them, I completely removed the Cobra housing and replaced them with Daymakers that fit inside (4.5" daymakers). I did have to wire in the daymakers, I opted to connect these to the accessory harness that is inside the headlight bucket. The cobra lightbar has a built in switch, I wired that switch through the ground (since the wires are exposed, I wanted to eliminate the risk of shorting).

Cobra light housings removed from Cobra ring:


Daymakers inside the Cobra light rings:


Light bar mounted so you can see inside:
 

·
Registered
2009 VTX 1300R, Long Island NY
Joined
·
1,092 Posts
Ok so you got the switchback led bulb? I did check online to see if it fit 03 vtx1800 and it says no.... yet you still got them and it works id assume??? Maybe specific part number ??
As for wiring them lights ... I will have eagle light with built in turn signaler as my head light and I’ll be having daymaker as my driving light along with stock signaler added on side hmmm for you to know my bike is a 1800C...

As for my driving lights I rather them hooked to my low beam?.... so it’s off when it’s on high beam..: believe it’s the law here in Oregon? Have you done that kind of wiring routine??? As for ground yeah it’s important so tell me more where they should go for best durability? I’m completely new with wiring and can’t afford anyone else doing it lol
I have a 1300R, not an 1800. So, I'm not 100% sure what the difference is. On mine, the Switchbacks are simply bulbs that are replaced. 1157 bulbs, instead of amber running, they are white LEDs, when you turn on the indicator, it cuts the white LED and blinks the Yellow.

I wired my Cobras to always be on when the bike is on. The same 3 wire harness in the headlight bucket has one that will dim when on High, I picked the one that is power with ACC, the 3rd is a ground.

I ran that ground to my switch, then from there to each driving light. The positive goes directly to each driving light. When I cut the switch, the ground is killed to the driving lights so they are off.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PaXman11

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
My 1800c has two way front turn signaler as being driving light or turn signaler neither ....... so I think switchblade will work don’t you think so too?


I have a 1300R, not an 1800. So, I'm not 100% sure what the difference is. On mine, the Switchbacks are simply bulbs that are replaced. 1157 bulbs, instead of amber running, they are white LEDs, when you turn on the indicator, it cuts the white LED and blinks the Yellow.

I wired my Cobras to always be on when the bike is on. The same 3 wire harness in the headlight bucket has one that will dim when on High, I picked the one that is power with ACC, the 3rd is a ground.

I ran that ground to my switch, then from there to each driving light. The positive goes directly to each driving light. When I cut the switch, the ground is killed to the driving lights so they are off.
 

·
Registered
2009 VTX 1300R, Long Island NY
Joined
·
1,092 Posts
My 1800c has two way front turn signaler as being driving light or turn signaler neither ....... so I think switchblade will work don’t you think so too?
Yeah. With the switchback LEDs you may need to switch out your indicator relay to a zero load relay (if you haven't already). I think, if it is the same as the 1300, it is a 1157, any switch back LED for a 1157 should work. I went cheap and got a set from Amazon. Once bulb went out in about 3 weeks, they sent me a full replacement set. I swapped the bad one out, and have had the original and one of the replacements in for about 2 years now. I kept the extra in the parts bin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Thanks... When you replace stock headlight to the daymaker led... You cut down about half on amp withdrawal?? Adding cobra bar with two daymaker did you do all wire connection inside your headlight frame?? As for switch relay how do I find that to change it? Mines a 03 1800C do you think I will have to change my relay to zero tolerance?
[

QUOTE="JPT, post: 3379940, member: 121087"]
Yeah. With the switchback LEDs you may need to switch out your indicator relay to a zero load relay (if you haven't already). I think, if it is the same as the 1300, it is a 1157, any switch back LED for a 1157 should work. I went cheap and got a set from Amazon. Once bulb went out in about 3 weeks, they sent me a full replacement set. I swapped the bad one out, and have had the original and one of the replacements in for about 2 years now. I kept the extra in the parts bin.
[/QUOTE]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Also as for wiring those driving light did you have to make a new wire out from main watt unit so it doesn't overload?? Also if I switch all my lights to led I will save lot of watt withdrawal and not burn anything as I add more led?


Yeah. With the switchback LEDs you may need to switch out your indicator relay to a zero load relay (if you haven't already). I think, if it is the same as the 1300, it is a 1157, any switch back LED for a 1157 should work. I went cheap and got a set from Amazon. Once bulb went out in about 3 weeks, they sent me a full replacement set. I swapped the bad one out, and have had the original and one of the replacements in for about 2 years now. I kept the extra in the parts bin.
 
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
Top