These are available and fit the Honda Housings.
I would have loved to have used the switchback LED's in the front signal positions but I have stock units with orange lenses and that wouldn't have worked unless I could find clear lenses for them.
I bought those from that exact link a few months ago. I bought 4 of them, the fit my 1300 R light housings perfectly (front and rear).These are available and fit the Honda Housings.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00230B3Y...olid=1V7ZEWGW5OYM8&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Thanks. The inside is where all the off angle squares are in order to give the light pattern, I think it would be a nightmare to attempt to scuff it up, and get the paint to actually stick evenly. If the cover was smooth, it would be a perfect idea.This works pretty well (on the inside)... but be sure to scuff the inside of the lens well. (I used my sandblaster).. It works, and they have a smoke grey but it isn't real dark.
https://www.krylon.com/products/stained-glass-paint/
You are right. I just tried it. BUT, I switched it back to how I had it... I think the way I have it is better, forOh.. I think I know why you had to re-drill the hole in the solo rack... You have the front brackets backwards. Swap them side-to-side and I think they'll work in the original hole.
I'm just relieved you are happy with it. I couldn't figure out why it "needed" drilled- when the Rack was listed for your exact bike, and it came off my 1800R. I put it on my 1300R and it fit as well. Was worried you'd think I sold it because it wouldn't fit mine.It is a little hard to explain, but I have 0 complaints with having to drill it, I think I improved the design, well, for me at least!
Thanks!
I am very happy with it! Just used it on a 200+ mile trip from Long Island to Maryland! Held my bag perfectly!I'm just relieved you are happy with it. I couldn't figure out why it "needed" drilled- when the Rack was listed for your exact bike, and it came off my 1800R. I put it on my 1300R and it fit as well. Was worried you'd think I sold it because it wouldn't fit mine.
If you got an adjustable bracket (so you can aim it) you will not blind people. Projector housings focus the light pattern properly. This is only true, if you properly aim it though.I just installed one of these halo LED headlights into my 05 1300C and it's so bright that I'm worried it disturbs oncoming traffic (it's the typical brightness of LED's in auto's)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G9JSTD3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I will say it cost a lot more than just replacing the light bulb, but it truly is plug-n-play and works both low/high beam and the it also gives your bike a newer appearance.
I have these Switchback LEDs for the front, and have red LEDs for the rear (I have smoked lenses):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M26IHAR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't know if your setup already address the low load of LEDs, I have a zero load indicator relay.
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As you can see they match my Daymaker headlight, and I now have a Cobra Light bar with 2 Daymaker (4.5") lights:
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This setup works well with my GPS Batwing fairing:
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The cobra light bar comes with the bar and the driving lights only. You remove the OEM indicators and move them to the mounts built into the light bar. With the R model indicators (they mount to a factory bar, unlike C models that mount directly to the forks), you get rid of the factory bracket during this process, and the OEM wires are long enough. I replaced the factory indicator/running light bulbs with LED switchbacks.let me guesss you bought cobra bar and it already had signaler and driving light .... you just replaced the bulb inside that cobra signaler? Added daymaker driving lights?? Can you tell me if you had to do it wiring mods to make your signaler work that way with driving light?? Maybe full details on process of that would be nice as I do really love your setup
The cobra light bar comes with the bar and the driving lights only. You remove the OEM indicators and move them to the mounts built into the light bar. With the R model indicators (they mount to a factory bar, unlike C models that mount directly to the forks), you get rid of the factory bracket during this process, and the OEM wires are long enough. I replaced the factory indicator/running light bulbs with LED switchbacks.
The Cobra driving lights have housings inside them, I completely removed the Cobra housing and replaced them with Daymakers that fit inside (4.5" daymakers). I did have to wire in the daymakers, I opted to connect these to the accessory harness that is inside the headlight bucket. The cobra lightbar has a built in switch, I wired that switch through the ground (since the wires are exposed, I wanted to eliminate the risk of shorting).
Cobra light housings removed from Cobra ring:
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Daymakers inside the Cobra light rings:
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Light bar mounted so you can see inside:
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I have a 1300R, not an 1800. So, I'm not 100% sure what the difference is. On mine, the Switchbacks are simply bulbs that are replaced. 1157 bulbs, instead of amber running, they are white LEDs, when you turn on the indicator, it cuts the white LED and blinks the Yellow.Ok so you got the switchback led bulb? I did check online to see if it fit 03 vtx1800 and it says no.... yet you still got them and it works id assume??? Maybe specific part number ??
As for wiring them lights ... I will have eagle light with built in turn signaler as my head light and I’ll be having daymaker as my driving light along with stock signaler added on side hmmm for you to know my bike is a 1800C...
As for my driving lights I rather them hooked to my low beam?.... so it’s off when it’s on high beam..: believe it’s the law here in Oregon? Have you done that kind of wiring routine??? As for ground yeah it’s important so tell me more where they should go for best durability? I’m completely new with wiring and can’t afford anyone else doing it lol
I have a 1300R, not an 1800. So, I'm not 100% sure what the difference is. On mine, the Switchbacks are simply bulbs that are replaced. 1157 bulbs, instead of amber running, they are white LEDs, when you turn on the indicator, it cuts the white LED and blinks the Yellow.
I wired my Cobras to always be on when the bike is on. The same 3 wire harness in the headlight bucket has one that will dim when on High, I picked the one that is power with ACC, the 3rd is a ground.
I ran that ground to my switch, then from there to each driving light. The positive goes directly to each driving light. When I cut the switch, the ground is killed to the driving lights so they are off.
Yeah. With the switchback LEDs you may need to switch out your indicator relay to a zero load relay (if you haven't already). I think, if it is the same as the 1300, it is a 1157, any switch back LED for a 1157 should work. I went cheap and got a set from Amazon. Once bulb went out in about 3 weeks, they sent me a full replacement set. I swapped the bad one out, and have had the original and one of the replacements in for about 2 years now. I kept the extra in the parts bin.My 1800c has two way front turn signaler as being driving light or turn signaler neither ....... so I think switchblade will work don’t you think so too?
Yeah. With the switchback LEDs you may need to switch out your indicator relay to a zero load relay (if you haven't already). I think, if it is the same as the 1300, it is a 1157, any switch back LED for a 1157 should work. I went cheap and got a set from Amazon. Once bulb went out in about 3 weeks, they sent me a full replacement set. I swapped the bad one out, and have had the original and one of the replacements in for about 2 years now. I kept the extra in the parts bin.