[JPT]

I wired my Cobra lights (with daymaker bulbs) to the accessory wire in the headlight bucket. I did not run a relay to the battery. Inside the headlight bucket there is a Honda accessory harness that has 3 wires. 1 ground, 1 12V+ switched, and 1 12V+ switched that cuts out when the high beam is on (on with low beams only). I opted to wire my lights to 12V switched (so they do not cut out when the high beam is on).

This is the harness in the headlight bucket:

The switch relay is under your clutch side cover (either painted or chrome) under your seat. This is where they are on the 1300, I'm not sure about the 1800's (see the link below for which 1800's are different). When you get the no load relay, you will see a harness that matches the relay plug, remove the OEM relay, and put in the no load relay.

This site has a TON of good info:
Replacement Universal Motorcycle Flasher Module | Bareass Choppers Motorcycle Tech Pages

There are cheaper, but this is the one I have:
Standard Flasher Relay (customdynamics.com)

 

[Vinish]

The only problem with powering the new Cobra light bar in the way you did is that this is more power that has to pass through the start button switch. This is hard on the switch when starting the bike as you are opening and closing a circuit at that switch which causes arcing and premature failure of this start button switch. This is particularly a problem because this start button switch is an already known very weak point in the VTX electrical system.

A simple alternative is to put a small relay in the headlight. Power this relay directly from the battery or a power block (do a search for power block mod). Then use the accessory wires you described to trigger the relay. This puts only a tiny additional load on the start button switch (the load to trigger the relay) and leaves the load for the added lights to come directly from the battery thus bypassing the start button switch.

The functionality is identical to your setup but this way you reduce the damage to the start button switch.

 

[DwayneBanks]

All cars equipped with halogen headlight bulbs from the factory are suitable for LED conversion. Replacing these bulbs is very easy! I also replaced the lights in the car's interior in parallel with the headlights Vont Smart Light Strip For Car. First, make sure your vehicle is securely fastened. The engine is off, the keys are removed from the ignition, and the parking brake is on. Remove the halogen bulbs! Depending on the bulb type, you may have to remove the metal clip first, then just twist counterclockwise and pull the bulb out. Install the LED bulbs in the headlight socket, being careful not to touch the LED with your bare fingers!

 

[BubbaJePH]

Now that I have the Kuryakyn 4604 Run Turn Brake system installed, I am ready to convert the front and rear turn signal and brake light lamps to LED. So, can you fellows recommend a high quality replacement white LED lamp for the front and rear turn signal lamp sockets and one for the brake lamp socket on the VTX 1300C? The Kuryakyn RTB came with a single load equalizer and an additional connector for a second one if necessary so I'm good there. Also I installed the Kuryakyn red rear lenses so white LEDs are good all around. Suggestions? Thanks in advance for everyone's time.

I will probably also install an LED headlight and I think the recommendation in this forum is the Daymaker headlight is that right? Or is there a direct drop in LED for the headlight that is of good quality and bright? I think bill_rides had a good one he recommended.

Barry

All you need is an electronic turn flashing unit under the right too cover i It fits the same any parts store should have them. Ask them for help if you need to. What year bike do you own. I wrote easy instruction for the 2006 VTX