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I'm thinking of replacing the damper set on my 07 Honda VTX 1300 c, I have found an oem set but I was wondering if anyone has any input or suggestions on getting a set. Also thanks to all the VTX gurus better always such a great help.
 

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I'm thinking of replacing the damper set on my 07 Honda VTX 1300 c, I have found an oem set but I was wondering if anyone has any input or suggestions on getting a set. Also thanks to all the VTX gurus better always such a great help.
To what are you referring as 'damper'? Different parts of the country or different countries, call certain things by a different name.
 

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I'm thinking of replacing the damper set on my 07 Honda VTX 1300 c, I have found an oem set but I was wondering if anyone has any input or suggestions on getting a set. Also thanks to all the VTX gurus better always such a great help.
I changed those on mine about a month ago. I have 85k so it made a noticeable difference. I vacuumed the rubber dust out of the cavities in the wheel hub.


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I could be wrong but I think those are more often referred to as the rubber "splines". I had not before heard them called "dampers". Glad we were able to figure out what they were and that you got some good feedback. When you put the new ones back in, make sure to use copious amounts of moly paste containing at least 60% "moly" which is molybdenum disulfide.
 

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I could be wrong but I think those are more often referred to as the rubber "splines". I had not before heard them called "dampers". Glad we were able to figure out what they were and that you got some good feedback. When you put the new ones back in, make sure to use copious amounts of moly paste containing at least 60% "moly" which is molybdenum disulfide.




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I could be wrong but I think those are more often referred to as the rubber "splines". I had not before heard them called "dampers". Glad we were able to figure out what they were and that you got some good feedback. When you put the new ones back in, make sure to use copious amounts of moly paste containing at least 60% "moly" which is molybdenum disulfide.
Do not put moly paste or any grease on the dampers. This will go on the flange gear as well as the final drive gear only.


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Do not put moly paste or any grease on the dampers. This will go on the flange gear as well as the final drive gear only.


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As previously mentioned, the splines are the actual gear teeth inside the rear hub. That is the part that gets moly'd. I could see where some people would use incorrectly a rear gear grease instead of Moly, and when it would get hot, slung all over the inside of the hub even on those rubber dampers, and cause deterioration of same.
 

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I always use axle grease (wheel bearing) on the spline and the wheel spacers. I'll be inspecting mine here in just a little bit. I'm going out to pull both wheels this afternoon to swap to new rubber.
 
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My apology for earlier in this thread incorrectly stating that you should put moly paste on the dampers. As has been pointed out, this is incorrect and, instead, the moly paste is used on the splines. I recommend NOT using simple axle grease on these as the service manual is very specific that moly paste with at least 60% moly should be used on these splines.
 
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My apology for earlier in this thread incorrectly stating that you should put moly paste on the dampers. As has been pointed out, this is incorrect and, instead, the moly paste is used on the splines. I recommend NOT using simple axle grease on these as the service manual is very specific that moly paste with at least 60% moly should be used on these splines.
I've been down the lubricant rabbit hole too many times to question the recommended, but I have a Honda Sabre that just rolled 168k miles the other day and the spline looks just as good as it did the first time I pulled the rear apart. The service manual also recommends motorcycle tires or Honda brand motorcycle oil too. It's a matter of application. I'm not saying Moly isn't "better", but it isn't the be all end all just because the manual says so. Lets take CV shafts as an example. Who puts lubricant on them? How many worn CV shaft splines have been reported? How about driveshaft splines? I've never seen one worn out unless the shaft had been modified incorrectly and drove too far out on the spline causing a vibration. Anyway, this conversation can go around in circles forever. Use the recommended.
 
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Actually this should be a thread in itself. Let's ask the question a different way: has anyone used a lube that DIDN'T work well? That would be real world and useful knowledge.
 

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Now this is where your failures tend to be. The flange bearings need to be replaced so I just ordered a All Balls kit. The wheel bearings are fine, but I’ll put them in too as they come with the kit. The dampers are good so I’ll leave them in for at least another round. Here is a pic of the spline and the dampers after 22k. The flange bearings still rotate, but they are pretty clicky so timing was on my side in this case. Automotive tire Tire Tread Camera lens Motor vehicle
Fluid Household hardware Gas Bicycle part Cylinder
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Upon further investigation this bearing failure was an installation error on Honda. I saw it before I pushed the bearings out, but couldn’t get an accurate picture. This is the inner (left) and outer (right) bearings. The inner bearing is the one failing and you can clearly see why. Wood Automotive tire Rim Automotive wheel system Font
 
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Now this is where your failures tend to be. The flange bearings need to be replaced so I just ordered a All Balls kit. The wheel bearings are fine, but I’ll put them in too as they come with the kit. The dampers are good so I’ll leave them in for at least another round. Here is a pic of the spline and the dampers after 22k. The flange bearings still rotate, but they are pretty clicky so timing was on my side in this case. View attachment 242997 View attachment 242996 View attachment 242998
It sometimes pays to be pro-active when it comes to these bikes. Case in point, when I heard there was potential for the flange bearings to go bad, I took mine out , inspected, then shipped it to Washington to VTXOA member Jons1800VTXC. He re-machines them for longer wear, and if your 'core' is good enough for him to re-man., he rebates part of your money for one you bought from him that was fixed. At the time I got mine, I think he charged $160, and then rebated me $40 when mine was OK to re-man. A few years ago.
 

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It sometimes pays to be pro-active when it comes to these bikes. Case in point, when I heard there was potential for the flange bearings to go bad, I took mine out , inspected, then shipped it to Washington to VTXOA member Jons1800VTXC. He re-machines them for longer wear, and if your 'core' is good enough for him to re-man., he rebates part of your money for one you bought from him that was fixed. At the time I got mine, I think he charged $160, and then rebated me $40 when mine was OK to re-man. A few years ago.
Re machines them how? Is that if the bearing damages where they go into the spline?
 

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Re machines them how? Is that if the bearing damages where they go into the spline?
My understanding, and I could be wrong, is they were mfg'd. with a taper cut, and he does something that improves the fit. For specifics you'd have to ask him.
 
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