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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decapped my airbox and threw a k&n in there. I am installing the fp jet kit today. I have had some people telling me to do the scar mod before i replace the jets. Im confused because the jet kit comes with a pin that you can adjust the height on with a clip. This is doing the same thing the scar mod does correct?
I still have the stock exhaust planning on upgrading to some slip ons in the near future. I am also planning on eventually getting a arlon ness big sucker or something like it very soon as well. So i got people telling me different things in what to do and now im confused. Can someone who knows what they are talking about lead me in the right direction? Thank you!
 

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2009 VTX 1300R, Long Island NY
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I decapped my airbox and threw a k&n in there. I am installing the fp jet kit today. I have had some people telling me to do the scar mod before i replace the jets. Im confused because the jet kit comes with a pin that you can adjust the height on with a clip. This is doing the same thing the scar mod does correct?
I still have the stock exhaust planning on upgrading to some slip ons in the near future. I am also planning on eventually getting a arlon ness big sucker or something like it very soon as well. So i got people telling me different things in what to do and now im confused. Can someone who knows what they are talking about lead me in the right direction? Thank you!
Scar mod uses the factory needle and jets, you simply place #4 washer(s) under the needle to raise it. You will need the jet kit if you go with the a wide open air cleaner like Arlen Ness' design.

I have the Arlen Ness Big Sucker (facebook posts with you). My Factory Pro jetkit with dyno tune produces perfect spark plug color on all 4 plugs. I just removed and cleaned them for the first time since my tune (I needed to back tap one sparkplug hole, the previous owner let it get gummed up).

I personally would either try the Scar mod (hold onto the FP jet kit until you get the new air cleaner), and if that still isn't enough decapped, then go with the FP now. Either way you will need the FP eventually. My tune uses 1 #4 washer, so even with FP, one #4 washer gives you .5 needle positions (fine tuning).

Once you go with the open aftermarket cleaner, give my tune a shot, as long as you are close to my elevation (100' above sea level), it should be good. If you elevation is different, you can use the guide to adjust from my tune.

 

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As others have said, the Scar mod is not used if you have a jet kit. The Scar mod is the "poor man's" jet kit that uses the stock needle with one or more washers under the blunt end cap to lift it slightly. Of course, as JPT says, you can still use a washer with the FP jet kit to achieve a half step in needle clip position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Scar mod uses the factory needle and jets, you simply place #4 washer(s) under the needle to raise it. You will need the jet kit if you go with the a wide open air cleaner like Arlen Ness' design.

I have the Arlen Ness Big Sucker (facebook posts with you). My Factory Pro jetkit with dyno tune produces perfect spark plug color on all 4 plugs. I just removed and cleaned them for the first time since my tune (I needed to back tap one sparkplug hole, the previous owner let it get gummed up).

I personally would either try the Scar mod (hold onto the FP jet kit until you get the new air cleaner), and if that still isn't enough decapped, then go with the FP now. Either way you will need the FP eventually. My tune uses 1 #4 washer, so even with FP, one #4 washer gives you .5 needle positions (fine tuning).

Once you go with the open aftermarket cleaner, give my tune a shot, as long as you are close to my elevation (100' above sea level), it should be good. If you elevation is different, you can use the guide to adjust from my tune.

Alrighty so everything is installed. I left the needle at stock length 4th position for now. Getting ready to see how she runs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well i will say this. She idles better now and the throttle response at idle is on point
 

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It sounds to me like you might be tuning it in the wrong order. You tune from highest rpm to lowest. First you tune the 2nd gear 20 mph to red line (main jet) circuit. Then you tune the 4th gear (40 to 80+ mph) medium rpm - needle height circuit. Lastly, you tune the slow speed (idle or near idle rpm circuit). See the "Carb - what affects what" thread in the VTX1300 stickies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It sounds to me like you might be tuning it in the wrong order. You tune from highest rpm to lowest. First you tune the 2nd gear 20 mph to red line (main jet) circuit. Then you tune the 4th gear (40 to 80+ mph) medium rpm - needle height circuit. Lastly, you tune the slow speed (idle or near idle rpm circuit). See the "Carb - what affects what" thread in the VTX1300 stickies.
No i tuned it in the correct order. The comment was just right after i got done and started it up. I noticed a change right away in How it idled. Its all done st this point. Thing runs fantastic now.
 

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Awesome. Glad to hear it. Sorry for my worry.
 

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