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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 2007 X 1300 with 1,900 miles on it(picking it up in 2 weeks). The previous owner installed DG Hard Krome K-2's himself. After looking for reviews on this exhaust (our of sheer curiosity), I found a review by the guy I'm buying this bike from! It has me slightly concerned:

-Here's the review
"This is my favorite upgrade in regards to the look of my bike. Little tricky to install. Kept trying to used the gasket rings and couldnt get the pipes on because the studs were just a little too short, tossed the rings aside and they went on pretty easy after that. Had to get dealer to adjust the carb to get it to run smoother. Only thing I dont care for is the POP POP POP sound they make when first starting up the bike with the choke on.... once the bike warms up some, the POPping occurs much less often and they have a nice deep rumbling sound.
"

Two things bother me here.:hmm2:
1. "tossed the rings aside and they went on pretty easy after that"
Sounds like I'll need to install some new gaskets. From the sound of it they're missing.

2. "Only thing I dont care for is the POP POP POP sound they make when first starting up the bike" and "once the bike warms up some, the POPping occurs much less often" "Had to get dealer to adjust the carb to get it to run smoother."
Sounds to me like the carb wasn't rejetted, instead "adjusted".

I'll ask him if he had the bike rejetted, but for now I'm thinking I better take the bike in for new gaskets and a re-jet(or at least confirm the bike has been rejetted properly). What do you guys think? Should I be concerned?

Is it normal for this exhaust to back-fire, or is that a sign of a carb that has not been rejetted?

Seems I should just start with the gaskets and go from there...
 

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Bahahaha..... wow. Well those gaskets are important. I doubt any damage was done but they need to be on there. My HK's didn't go on easy either. Buy new crush gaskets and install em first thing. The popping sound was an exhaust leak because the gaskets were removed.

As far as the adjustment, you don't need a rejet for pipes. The intake is what qualifies when you need to rejet and by how much. When you get the bike do a Scar mod, it will make the bike run a Ron better.

Popping is normally a sign of the bike running lean, which it very well may be. They are lean from the factory. But in this case the popping is an exhaust leak. I have a decapitated open airbox and HK exhaust. I have no popping and all I did to the carbon was the scar mod.

If you do decide to rejet don't use the dealer stuff. Buy a factory pro kit. It's much better.
 

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I agree with justin.
There may be some popping from the pair valves on decel also.
And may i say that is a beautiful bike! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Bahahaha..... wow. Well those gaskets are important. I doubt any damage was done but they need to be on there. My HK's didn't go on easy either. Buy new crush gaskets and install em first thing. The popping sound was an exhaust leak because the gaskets were removed.

As far as the adjustment, you don't need a rejet for pipes. The intake is what qualifies when you need to rejet and by how much. When you get the bike do a Scar mod, it will make the bike run a Ron better.

Popping is normally a sign of the bike running lean, which it very well may be. They are lean from the factory. But in this case the popping is an exhaust leak. I have a decapitated open airbox and HK exhaust. I have no popping and all I did to the carbon was the scar mod.

If you do decide to rejet don't use the dealer stuff. Buy a factory pro kit. It's much better.

Thanks Justin, I'll get those new gaskets in first thing. Man, my heart sank when I read that review and realized that was the bike I just bought! Hopefully everything else is in good shape. Thanks again.
 

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Thanks Justin, I'll get those new gaskets in first thing. Man, my heart sank when I read that review and realized that was the bike I just bought! Hopefully everything else is in good shape. Thanks again.
Im no mechanic but I do my own work, from what I understand and have learned on here a exhaust leak isnt going to damage anything long term unless the bike is run to the point of overheating because of the leak.

The studs should be long enough however mine were just barely long enough. It may be worth ordering new studs slightly longer?

Unless you have some kinda really heavy breathing airbox just stick with the scar mod for the carb. From what I have read even the best jet kits have finicky needles so its best to use stock as long as you can. Plus the it saves you $70 bucks.

Congrats on the new bike, post some pics when you get her home.
 

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Nice response from Justin, and agree with the concepts... nothing is damaged, you're ok, and the previous owner is a complete idiot... as is the 'dealer' for 'adjusting' the carb and not dealing with the real problem.

Yes, crush gaskets aren't an 'option', they are mandatory.

Install those and you'll be pleasantly surprised. Welcome to the Cafe from Central Florida, and looking forward to your update.

Mort
 

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As was stated already, the popping is from the lack of exhaust crush gaskets...I had a set of HK Big 3's on my bike last summer and the studs were plenty long enough...Obviously the guy didn't come here for installation advice, or the pipes would've been done correctly the first time...;)

Now as long as the dealer didn't rejet the carb you'll be good to go when you get the gaskets in there...
 

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Just my 2 cents, but I think the original owner couldn't get the new gaskets in because he never removed the old gaskets. And that could be the reason the studs were too short because he was trying to place new gaskets over the existing gaskets.

Those existing gaskets are near impossible to see because they've already been crushed to fit the seal exactly. You need to trust it's there. You really need to get in there with a right angle tool or gently smash down the old gasket so you can grab it and pull it out of there.

Simple fix, remove the pipes, pull out the old gaskets, insert new gaskets, no exhaust leak = no decel popping... (hopefully)
 

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Just my 2 cents, but I think the original owner couldn't get the new gaskets in because he never removed the old gaskets. And that could be the reason the studs were too short because he was trying to place new gaskets over the existing gaskets.

Those existing gaskets are near impossible to see because they've already been crushed to fit the seal exactly. You need to trust it's there. You really need to get in there with a right angle tool or gently smash down the old gasket so you can grab it and pull it out of there.

Simple fix, remove the pipes, pull out the old gaskets, insert new gaskets, no exhaust leak = no decel popping... (hopefully)
Excellent point! Yes, some folks think they weren't in there to begin with because they can't seem to get em out. The crush gaskets, by design, are one-time use.

Mort
 

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Just my 2 cents, but I think the original owner couldn't get the new gaskets in because he never removed the old gaskets. And that could be the reason the studs were too short because he was trying to place new gaskets over the existing gaskets.

Those existing gaskets are near impossible to see because they've already been crushed to fit the seal exactly. You need to trust it's there. You really need to get in there with a right angle tool or gently smash down the old gasket so you can grab it and pull it out of there.

Simple fix, remove the pipes, pull out the old gaskets, insert new gaskets, no exhaust leak = no decel popping... (hopefully)
Oh yeah, forgot that one. Mine have been molded in there so tight it was near impossible. Before adding new ones make sure the old are out. Take wet rag and clean the port out if you need to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you guys for all the help! As long as I can find the original assembly instructions for the exhaust I'll pull it off myself and install the new gaskets, first checking to see if the old ones were removed. Otherwise I'll take it to the shop since I've heard there's a specific order and torque to re-tighten the bolts. Really appreciate it. I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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Thank you guys for all the help! As long as I can find the original assembly instructions for the exhaust I'll pull it off myself and install the new gaskets, first checking to see if the old ones were removed. Otherwise I'll take it to the shop since I've heard there's a specific order and torque to re-tighten the bolts. Really appreciate it. I'll let you know how it goes.
The info from the owners manual should be all you need. The installation procedure will be the same. I believe the torque is 18ftlbs.

I actually didnt know there was a order to it, I always just alternated torquing em down to stay even. I do know you need to re torque em down after 100 miles or so.
 

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Thank you guys for all the help! As long as I can find the original assembly instructions for the exhaust I'll pull it off myself and install the new gaskets, first checking to see if the old ones were removed. Otherwise I'll take it to the shop since I've heard there's a specific order and torque to re-tighten the bolts. Really appreciate it. I'll let you know how it goes.
It's not rocket science installing the pipes...Start all the bolts and nuts and leave them loose until all of them are started...Then when you start tightening them, start at the front and work your way towards the back...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
UPDATE:

I picked up the bike from North Carolina last Saturday and asked the owner if he replaced the exhaust gaskets(just to be sure), and he admitted he didn't. He also said the Honda dealer assured him there was no exhaust leak, the gaskets didn't need to be replaced, and they "adjusted" the carb. I appreciated the truth, thanked him for the bike and went on my way back to NY. 24 hours of driving with a trailer and a new bike in bad weather through mountains and fog, NOT fun.

View attachment 23795

The bike ran like crap! Popping and backfiring at all RPMs and it would not run, even hot, without being at least 1/4 out on the choke. Black smoke coming out of the pipes also, not thick, but noticeable.

With all the help from this awesome site I pulled the exhaust off(had to remove the right footboard and brake pedal first), I dented the old gaskets with a screwdriver and hammer so the edges popped up, and used a hook to yank the old gaskets out of there. Installed the new gaskets using 3 small dabs of super glue on each gasket to hold them in place until I secured the exhaust back in place. I reassembled the brake pedal and footboard, so far so good.

Although I know I'm not finished fixing this problem, I started the bike up to see how it sounds. MUCH less popping and backfiring, but it's still there because the bike still won't run without 1/4 out on the choke.

Next I removed the back seat, driver seat, removed the speedometer from the tank so I don't have to unclip the wiring harness, removed the gas tank(full), pulled the airbox to get to the carb. I should note that before I removed the gas tank, I turned the petcock off, started the bike up and ran the gas out of the line until it stalled. When I removed the gas line, very little gas came out and I soaked it up with a rag.

Earlier in the day I called all the bike shops in the area looking for a D shaped tool for adjusting the carb, nobody had it. I called all the auto parts stores, they only had Double D tools for cars. Finally I called the Honda dealer. A girl answered in the parts department and I asked if she had any D shaped tools. She said, "well, only the ones that come with the rejet kits, but you're welcome to one of those". I said, "yeah but I have to buy the whole kit, right?". She said, "No, I save all the tools from each kit we install for no reason really, you can have one for FREE". :mosh: WOW! They close before I get out of work, so the girl said she'll leave the tool for me in the left planter next to the door, and I can pick it up whenever. What awesome luck.

So the carb's exposed now. I turned the A/F until it was closed, lightly. Then opened it up 2.5 turns. Reassembled the bike with no problems.

Now she fires up without any choke and runs like a dream! It still takes a couple mins to warm up however. If I hit the throttle cold, it'll stumble and die. If I roll on the throttle very very slowly it won't stumble or die. After a minute or two it runs PERFECTLY. Do you guys think I should add 1 shim to the carb?

Next I will remove the PAIR valve. I'm just having a lot of trouble finding a 1/2" vacuum plug for the stock air box. The largest any store in the area has is 3/8".

Thank you all for the help you've provided! Once I make ends meet, I will certainly be upgrading my membership.
 
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