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Hello,

I recently purchased my first trike it's a Honda VTX 1800S, new to the website too. newbie post in introduce yourself area (Howdy from San Angelo Texas).


Anyway I purchased the trike in WI and I live in Texas, so after getting it here I took her out for a test ride, Wow it was a lot to take in.

Aside from almost sliding me off the seat in a high speed turn, I was getting horrible wind buffeting, seemed like my helmet was going to shake off, and I was thinking what a mistake to buy this.


I was advised by several members here about pushing down on the floor boards to eliminate the sliding, which helped marvelously "Thank You".

Next I started looking for ways to control the wind buffeting, first I found that my bat-wing windshield was installed to low for me (I'm 6' with a long trunk).

I set it as high I could get it even with a 10" windshield, it now sets about even with the bottom of my nose.

This took away maybe 70 percent of the buffeting.

Then I started reading about lowers I found they fell in to two basic types: a plastic piece mounted off the forks


or a long narrow chrome piece hanging off the forks (Fangs).


So wanting something more personalized to the trike I made a set from steel and painted them to match.

I used a scrap outside electrical panel door, to cutout not only the lower panels but also for the 3/4" brackets that go halfway around the forks.

I measured from my turn signals down to what I thought looked pretty good without getting to long for the lowers panels, 13" by 6" at top and 4" at bottom.

I did a simple bend about 1 1/2" out from the forks (I put the black divider line in the paint there too).

I made the bracket (straps) 6" by 3/4" (bending about 4" around a 3" pipe) so that they looked similar to the letter J.

Next I cut two cutouts roughly 3/8" to 1/2" deep, at 1/2" intervals from the curved end of the bracket, to allow for the pipe clamps to be able to get a bite in the bracket and the front forks when installing.

I also installed some 1/8" thick rubber with glue to the underside of the brackets where they will contact the forks.

The next step was first to mock up the brackets and the lowers plates on the trike to mark position and weld areas.

After the two lowers were all welded up I checked fit again and prepped them for paint.

I know I wanted to follow the paint scheme that was already on the trike so I laid out what you see below. (rattle can job).

Oh, I took her out for a ride and wind buffeting is almost nonexistent now.

My cost comes down to my time / scrap metal / welding and cutting / scrap rubber / and 4 3" pipe clamps about $8.00 dollars.

Now some pictures (colors are off from taking pictures in garage) but here goes: Ta Da
Lower1.jpg Lower 2.jpg Lower 4.jpg Lower 5.jpg Lower 6.jpg
 

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Way to go, Dave. Looks great. My new Clearview shield is open below the beadlight bucket whereas the Hondaline was a circle cut out. The open bottom is giving me a little more air coming up. I was going to try to adapt a pr. of the chrome 'fangs' to fit my C, since they don't make them for the C. I also have a big piece of plexiglas I could make my own like the colored ones in your other pic.
 

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Nice work on the lowers. I've been thinking about making a set since Ray posted his. You guys make me feel lazy.
 

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Hello,

I recently purchased my first trike it's a Honda VTX 1800S, new to the website too. newbie post in introduce yourself area (Howdy from San Angelo Texas).


Anyway I purchased the trike in WI and I live in Texas, so after getting it here I took her out for a test ride, Wow it was a lot to take in.

Aside from almost sliding me off the seat in a high speed turn, I was getting horrible wind buffeting, seemed like my helmet was going to shake off, and I was thinking what a mistake to buy this.


I was advised by several members here about pushing down on the floor boards to eliminate the sliding, which helped marvelously "Thank You".

Next I started looking for ways to control the wind buffeting, first I found that my bat-wing windshield was installed to low for me (I'm 6' with a long trunk).

I set it as high I could get it even with a 10" windshield, it now sets about even with the bottom of my nose.

This took away maybe 70 percent of the buffeting.

Then I started reading about lowers I found they fell in to two basic types: a plastic piece mounted off the forks


or a long narrow chrome piece hanging off the forks (Fangs).


So wanting something more personalized to the trike I made a set from steel and painted them to match.

I used a scrap outside electrical panel door, to cutout not only the lower panels but also for the 3/4" brackets that go halfway around the forks.

I measured from my turn signals down to what I thought looked pretty good without getting to long for the lowers panels, 13" by 6" at top and 4" at bottom.

I did a simple bend about 1 1/2" out from the forks (I put the black divider line in the paint there too).

I made the bracket (straps) 6" by 3/4" (bending about 4" around a 3" pipe) so that they looked similar to the letter J.

Next I cut two cutouts roughly 3/8" to 1/2" deep, at 1/2" intervals from the curved end of the bracket, to allow for the pipe clamps to be able to get a bite in the bracket and the front forks when installing.

I also installed some 1/8" thick rubber with glue to the underside of the brackets where they will contact the forks.

The next step was first to mock up the brackets and the lowers plates on the trike to mark position and weld areas.

After the two lowers were all welded up I checked fit again and prepped them for paint.

I know I wanted to follow the paint scheme that was already on the trike so I laid out what you see below. (rattle can job).

Oh, I took her out for a ride and wind buffeting is almost nonexistent now.

My cost comes down to my time / scrap metal / welding and cutting / scrap rubber / and 4 3" pipe clamps about $8.00 dollars.

Now some pictures (colors are off from taking pictures in garage) but here goes: Ta Da
View attachment 193809 View attachment 193811 View attachment 193821 View attachment 193817 View attachment 193819
Great job, thanks for sharing and for the pics
 

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Nice work on the lowers. I've been thinking about making a set since Ray posted his. You guys make me feel lazy.
My issue is going to be time. No heat in the barn, so exposure is limited, and I'm really leaning (pardon the pun) to getting a knee replaced early March, which will stop everything for a few months while re-habbing.
 

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My issue is going to be time. No heat in the barn, so exposure is limited, and I'm really leaning (pardon the pun) to getting a knee replaced early March, which will stop everything for a few months while re-habbing.
Yes. Work, family and weather gives me more excuses than I need. But I'm cheap, so I need to follow these guys lead and just build a set.
 

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I'm really leaning (pardon the pun) to getting a knee replaced early March, which will stop everything for a few months while re-habbing.
Robo Fran.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Writing is not one of my strong points!

"I'm 6' with a long trunk" :icon_ihearu:

Good catch, I'm still laughing, "your an elephant"


Wow how could I have missed that one. :banghead:

Thank you all for the comments, :bleh:

David Hilton
Ret. USN ETC/SS
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Good catch, I'm still laughing, "your an elephant"

Wow how could I have missed that one.

Thank you all for the comments,

David Hilton
Ret. USN ETC/SS
 

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Good catch, I'm still laughing, "your an elephant"

Wow how could I have missed that one.

Thank you all for the comments,

David Hilton
Ret. USN ETC/SS

A good sense of humor goes a long way around here David, you'll do just fine.


when riding season SLOW's ,, some become comics...:)

but then.. slow has nothing to do with it...



That was one lucky Engineer!!!!! That should have been very, very bad (It probably still hurt like hell). What I can't understand is the idiots standing UNDER what used to be the bridge or at least what is left of it!!!!!!!:doh::swear::banghead::nope::tapfoot:
 

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A good sense of humor goes a long way around here David, you'll do just fine.



That was one lucky Engineer!!!!! That should have been very, very bad (It probably still hurt like hell). What I can't understand is the idiots standing UNDER what used to be the bridge or at least what is left of it!!!!!!!:doh::swear::banghead::nope::tapfoot:
any sudden stop is painful.. but a mega-ton rig.. OUCH...
and yes.. the people under it... just ASKING for 'it'...

Yes, I can pick some real "??????" photo's
I guess my middle name is NOW derail... threads ..
 

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I don't think so Chuck, you are the "Sandbagger" of R. C. trucks from what I've been told. :bleh:
Just keep the derails coming. I for one love them:47b20s0:
 

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A good sense of humor goes a long way around here David, you'll do just fine.





That was one lucky Engineer!!!!! That should have been very, very bad (It probably still hurt like hell). What I can't understand is the idiots standing UNDER what used to be the bridge or at least what is left of it!!!!!!!:doh::swear::banghead::nope::tapfoot:
Optical illusion- from the angle of the camera, it looks like they are right under, but actually could have been back as much as 30-40 yards. I still wouldn't want to be even that close. I'm curious, the lettering on the tender- MONON - Could that have been from the Monongahela area of SW Pa.?
 

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Optical illusion- from the angle of the camera, it looks like they are right under, but actually could have been back as much as 30-40 yards. I still wouldn't want to be even that close. I'm curious, the lettering on the tender- MONON - Could that have been from the Monongahela area of SW Pa.?

I'm not so sure about that Fran. The guy on the extreme left in the white shirt looks like he has his hand resting on that timber that is right below the gap between the engine and the tender! Looking at that picture a little closer, I'm guessing that due to a lack of overall damage to the engine it must have been traveling relatively slowly and just as the front of the engine was about clear the end of the bridge it collapsed for what ever reason, setting the cow catcher and front truck on the dirt bank under the end of the bridge.
 

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I'm not so sure about that Fran. The guy on the extreme left in the white shirt looks like he has his hand resting on that timber that is right below the gap between the engine and the tender! Looking at that picture a little closer, I'm guessing that due to a lack of overall damage to the engine it must have been traveling relatively slowly and just as the front of the engine was about clear the end of the bridge it collapsed for what ever reason, setting the cow catcher and front truck on the dirt bank under the end of the bridge.
that is how I would call it.. bridge fell at that end as the cow catcher dropped onto the dirt bank.

remember the number of wooden train bridge collapses between 1890 and 1930 was a full time job.
 
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