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To my knowledge, the float needle in the VTX1300 is not adjustable. It either seals or it does not. If yours is not sealing, then the float could have sprung a leak or the sealing surfaces could be dirty or cracked. You will have to dig into the carb to investigate these.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
To my knowledge, the float needle in the VTX1300 is not adjustable. It either seals or it does not. If yours is not sealing, then the float could have sprung a leak or the sealing surfaces could be dirty or cracked. You will have to dig into the carb to investigate these.
I was afraid of that. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Not adjustable, but as our bikes age and are subjected to o_Oethanol fuel, rubber bits will degrade. Simple fix: https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16155-HN7-003?ref=2b322b7e49d03bc57aa177b3a5a58dd8fa4b31d9
(y)
Thanks guys. So I ordered the whole float replacement kit for 100 bucks. Then I got in there to fiddling around and I sorted out that the float was getting stuck on the side of the carburetor bowl. – Probably the result of some of my hand fisted twisting to get the bowl off during previous jetting changes. Since I had new parts on the way I figured nothing to lose, so I sanded down some ridges on the float itself, reinstalled very carefully, and wa la, no more overflow.
 

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We used to have a Carb Guru (CharlieD passed a while back -- RIP). I was wrestling with a carb problem myself and Charlie advised me that it is usually a simple problem and to look for that. He was right. I went to raise the needle from the 3rd notch to the fourth and actually put it on the 2nd notch. Went through he!! trying to "fix" a big problem. It would start but any throttle at all and it would die (NOT ENOUGH FUEL). Finally went through all my steps again (had already done this several times) and finally noticed my mistake. I ended up with a sparkling clean carb and many new parts on it. I only needed to move the clip to the 4th notch on the needle.
I felt so stupid and I tell this story grudgingly -- passing on how a simple mistake can be hard to find o_Oo_O
 

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We used to have a Carb Guru (CharlieD passed a while back -- RIP). I was wrestling with a carb problem myself and Charlie advised me that it is usually a simple problem and to look for that. He was right. I went to raise the needle from the 3rd notch to the fourth and actually put it on the 2nd notch. Went through he!! trying to "fix" a big problem. It would start but any throttle at all and it would die (NOT ENOUGH FUEL). Finally went through all my steps again (had already done this several times) and finally noticed my mistake. I ended up with a sparkling clean carb and many new parts on it. I only needed to move the clip to the 4th notch on the needle.
I felt so stupid and I tell this story grudgingly -- passing on how a simple mistake can be hard to find o_Oo_O
I'm right about there right now after a carb rebuild.
My question with an aftermarket pin what clip space do you start off with?
Mine had a washer also.
And with that aftermarket pin can I run a stock vacuum diagram spring?

I got my carburetor back in pieces and I'm on the very last of the rebuild.
The shop damaged my air flow screw by cross threading it.
I had to buy a 49 State carb and rebuild that one.
I've completely desmogged it.
Not going to do the scar Mod.
But they bent my stock pin.
So I have one diaphragm spring that looks stock and then I have one that's been cut quite a bit shorter than the stock one.
Pic is my aftermarket pin and the spring the little spring has not been cut or the tit cut.
I'd much rather run the long stock vacuum spring can I do it?
Eye Petal Wood Plant Jewellery
 

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The grooves on that needle look really weird - as if they were a thread or twisted rather than flat grooves but that is probably an artifact of the photo. Start with the clip on the middle slot of the needle and do NOT use the washer. Later when you go through the carb tuning steps you will likely have to adjust the needle position based on the results of your testing during the tuning.

You absolutely can reuse the large uncut/unshortened diaphragm spring (not shown in your picture) which is the spring that pushes the main carb slider down into place. Shortening this large spring allegedly can lead to faster throttle response but I've been very happy with the results of the VTX carb tunes I have done and I have never used a shortened spring.

The small spring shown in your picture attached to the yellow cap MUST be reused and must NOT be shortened, stretched, or otherwise changed in any way.

The "tit" on the underside of the yellow cap to which this small spring is attached must be shortened when using an aftermarket needle. This is best accomplished by using a large pair of toenail clippers. This shortening of the tit assures that the aftermarket needle is free to wiggle a little bit when it is properly inserted into the carb slider and the yellow cap is twisted slightly into place.
 
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The grooves on that needle look really weird - as if they were a thread or twisted rather than flat grooves but that is probably an artifact of the photo. Start with the clip on the middle slot of the needle and do NOT use the washer. Later when you go through the carb tuning steps you will likely have to adjust the needle position based on the results of your testing during the tuning.

You absolutely can reuse the large uncut/unshortened diaphragm spring (not shown in your picture) which is the spring that pushes the main carb slider down into place. Shortening this large spring allegedly can lead to faster throttle response but I've been very happy with the results of the VTX carb tunes I have done and I have never used a shortened spring.

The small spring shown in your picture attached to the yellow cap MUST be reused and must NOT be shortened, stretched, or otherwise changed in any way.

The "tit" on the underside of the yellow cap to which this small spring is attached must be shortened when using an aftermarket needle. This is best accomplished by using a large pair of toenail clippers. This shortening of the tit assures that the aftermarket needle is free to wiggle a little bit when it is properly inserted into the carb slider and the yellow cap is twisted slightly into place.
Thank you Vinish
You got me off the hump.
I'll finish it tomorrow how much of that tit should I clip off 16th of an inch or eighth ?
All these in between items this guy did I'm sure it's what caused the fuel vent problem see picture of my carb running on Friday.
It ran 10 minutes early and then started spitting fuel from that vent and what I call weep hole.
Nowhere near as bad as it was,
The desmogging it completely helped considerably.
I cleaned the heck out of it today I've got to check the float valve seat tomorrow. To see if it's sealing.
Motor vehicle Fixture Gas Auto part Engineering

Fuel coming out of the vent hose to the left and that opening at 8:00
I replaced the other two diaphragms vacuum cut off and acceleration pump today that were in the 49 states that carb had to have been sitting a long time.
The vacuum diaphragm I inspected no holes no creases was out of my 50 state carburetor.
The Jets were so dirty but are soaking now, I couldn't even read what they are.I may just put them back in until my factory pro kit arrives.
I've ordered the six and a half inch Glen air fuel screw when she's running I've got to buy a new airbox.
 

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Cut off about 1/3 to 1/2 half the tit. You must leave enough of the tit for the small spring to still be able to attach. My recommendation is to cut off only 1/3, put the needle, clip, spring, and cap together and attach them to the slide. Then see if the needle will freely wiggle and if you can press the needle on the pointed tip and have it move inward slightly (compressing the small spring). The ability to wiggle the needle will depend in part on what clip position is used on the needle. I believe that the FP needle has 5 clip positions (could be 6 - I do not remember for sure). Most of the time, the clip will end up in one of the three middle positions. Numbering these positions starting with the one closest to the blunt end and assigning this as position 1, put the clip in position 4 for the above "wiggle" test.

If removing 1/3rd of the tit still allows the needle to wiggle/depress with the clip at position 4, then you should be all set. If the needle will not wiggle/depress, then you need to cut off a little more of the tit.

Do NOT cut off so much of the tit that the small spring cannot still attach to it.
 
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Cut off about 1/3 to 1/2 half the tit. You must leave enough of the tit for the small spring to still be able to attach. My recommendation is to cut off only 1/3, put the needle, clip, spring, and cap together and attach them to the slide. Then see if the needle will freely wiggle and if you can press the needle on the pointed tip and have it move inward slightly (compressing the small spring). The ability to wiggle the needle will depend in part on what clip position is used on the needle. I believe that the FP needle has 5 clip positions (could be 6 - I do not remember for sure). Most of the time, the clip will end up in one of the three middle positions. Numbering these positions starting with the one closest to the blunt end and assigning this as position 1, put the clip in position 4 for the above "wiggle" test.

If removing 1/3rd of the tit still allows the needle to wiggle/depress with the clip at position 4, then you should be all set. If the needle will not wiggle/depress, then you need to cut off a little more of the tit.

Do NOT cut off so much of the tit that the small spring cannot still attach to it.
Good morning thank you for that I knew over cutting it would be a problem I'll go with the third.
Does that look like a factory pro aftermarket pin I'm going to try magnifying glass and see if I can read the Jets they cleaned up real well to see if there's a brand on there
Thank you for all knowledge
 

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As far as I know, there are only two aftermarket needles. One is from Dynojet and the other is from Factory Pro. One of these has 5 possible grooves for the clip (I think this is the FP but I could be wrong) and the other has 6 grooves. Perhaps someone who knows for sure the number of grooves could speak up. Your picture of the needle is blurry (or something) and I can't tell how many grooves it has.
 
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As far as I know, there are only two aftermarket needles. One is from Dynojet and the other is from Factory Pro. One of these has 5 possible grooves for the clip (I think this is the FP but I could be wrong) and the other has 6 grooves. Perhaps someone who knows for sure the number of grooves could speak up. Your picture of the needle is blurry (or something) and I can't tell how many grooves it has.
I will go count them that's the needle that came out of the 49 states along with that short spring I'm thinking somebody modified it and I'm hoping it's a factory pro I will count them
I looked on both sides dyna jet and Factory pro and I couldn't get a good enough picture of the needle itself.

Thank you for all the help I'm going to finish the assembly today
 

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I will go count them that's the needle that came out of the 49 states along with that short spring I'm thinking somebody modified it and I'm hoping it's a factory pro I will count them
I looked on both sides dyna jet and Factory pro and I couldn't get a good enough picture of the needle itself.

Thank you for all the help I'm going to finish the assembly today


It all went together just like you advised.
I even twist lock the spring with the needle first shot.
I set the clip right where you said I got a little bit of wiggle.
Now it went together so easy is there any way to check the slide is working properly I slid it up and down and it returned.
The only way is to connect it to vacuum on the bike and see if it does?

Thank you again I can't wait to put it back on the bike it's been almost a year.
Not running right not safe to ride
 
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