[country boy]

Went ahead and pulled tank off and done the scar carb mod.Already had cobra slashdowns installed.Drilled holes in stock air box used the extra cover BB sent me also +1 BB tried your idea on printing the x from x-cessories site that worked out good.Got it cut out but using what i have a high speed cut out tool sorta like a dremel on steroids .Gets things a little hot and ripples chrome right along the cut line to bad i don't have a water laser machine just sitting around ha.Any way added 2 #4 washers trimed tit under small spring and cut large spring down to 6" sorry scar couldn't make my self cut it 5 1/16
Looked like it would be a bitch to get to pilot screw (bracket for stock air box in the way)So i didn't mess with it at all .Put it all back together and went for a ride no flat spots no bog idles good checked plugs ok.(May get a dyno run on it 75 bucks for hp, torque and air fuel mix 50 for hp and torque.(Is this price about right or should i look around there close 20 miles and said they do 3 runs)

 

[barttoday]

Sounds like you got 'er done good country. Congrats!!!

 

[Scar]

Instead of blowing the money on dynos, take the wife out to dinner or something.. show her you have saved money on the bike and can afford it...

If you really want to get ride of $75, try flushing it down the toilet... that is what I think of most dyno "runs"... what do you expect to accomplish with a run??? Hardley anyone in a "regular shop" knows how to operate a dyno properly... You already have the bike running.. spend the money on something useful.

 

[country boy]

Instead of blowing the money on dynos, take the wife out to dinner or something.. show her you have saved money on the bike and can afford it...

If you really want to get ride of $75, try flushing it down the toilet... that is what I think of most dyno "runs"... what do you expect to accomplish with a run??? Hardley anyone in a "regular shop" knows how to operate a dyno properly... You already have the bike running.. spend the money on something useful.

I just wanted to make sure a/f was right cause i didn't have to adjust it but your directions could not have been better ++ 1 and another 1 thanks for sharing your knowledge won't waste my money.

 

[Scar]

Good move "country"... you've already tuned the bike better than 95% of the "shops" would and you did it "THE FIRST TIME IN"... that's nothing to sneeze at. Find a .223 shell or an old car radio antenna or something that will fit into the "D" slot hole.. dent the end of the shell/antenna and you can adjust your A/F if you want.. no rush, you have it running now (sounds like it is running fairly good)... If you want you can take the A/F screw all the way out and put the notch in the end of it so it can be adjusted with a screwdriver or you can spend a "little" money and get one of Cyberhicks A/F screws and adjust it with your fingers or a socket...

You have the bike running fairly good.. you are just into the fine tuning process now... Heck, I've witnessed some poor souls taking their bikes to a "shop" for months trying to get it to run properly and you did it in one "shot"... You can use this "chart" to put your mind to ease about cylinder temps (lean/rich) http://dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html It's a fairly good plug reading chart.

Remember.. dynos are for building engines, NOT tuning bikes.. you are tuning.

Have fun with the new ride.

 

[Retro Rich]

+1 on what Scar says. country, if I ever put mine on a dyno it would be for a free run if they were offering it somewhere--I just don't see the need to waste the money. Tuning is something not only to get your bike set-up right, but it's also a matter of "tuning" the bike for your riding style as well. What one person likes as a set-up, another one might not. Some guys run bikes "fat," others run them "lean" for a little snappier-feeling throttle response. How the bike performs for your own individual taste is what matters. A dyno is only going to do some WOT runs, etc. and that doesn't really mimic how it's driven out in the real world. Plus, it can't compensate for things such as wind drag, varying temperatures and humidity levels, etc. Reading your plugs and using the link Scar provided is a very good indicator of your A/F mixture.

 

[country boy]

Thanks guys printed me off a copy of plugs so i can compare them.thanks again.Oh yeah do i need a k&n filter ? is it that much better than stock?

 

[Scar]

Thanks guys printed me off a copy of plugs so i can compare them.thanks again.Oh yeah do i need a k&n filter ? is it that much better than stock?

In a word -- NO

When it comes time to change out your current filter you can opt for a K&N at that time if you want... they cost more initially, but of course they are "cleanable/recharable"...

K&N filter elements in stock boxes -- They do work better on some bikes and not as good on others.. The % gain on the ones they work better on you may or may not "feel"... basically I do not know of any credible testing (dyno) that has been done with the VTX with respect to the K&N.

I know a guy that has a speed shop with dyno and sells a LOT of aftermarket race parts ... mainly for crotch rockets... so he is ONE guy that knows how to operate a dyno.. that is what dynos are good for... TESTING.. there are some bikes he sells the K&N filter element for and he makes money on them... there are other bikes he will only sell the sock element for and the profit margin isn't as high, but the element works better ON THAT PARTICULAR BIKE than a K&N aftermarket element... it's his business/reputation to sell ONLY what performs best so that's why he has to "tell it the way it is"... He also builts race headers/exhausts which are perfected with the the dyno before market production begins.. aftermarket mapping for FI bikes, etc., etc.

So what am I saying here?? When you have some "spare change" laying around.. then would be the time for the K&N... see, that money you are saving from the dyno can go into other things -- ALSO depending on the radicalness of the "cutting" that you have performed on the airbox cover you might want to get the K&N because they are water resistant... WHAT??? Yes... The stock paper element works good, but if water gets in there it is wacked... The K&N is oil saturated when you recharge them... oil repells water.. etc., etc.

Tell ya what... the bike is running fine right now... RIDE IT... if you are looking for something to do, think about that A/F screw and fine tuning (course it COULD be spot on right now, but no one knows until you mess with it )... The options for fixing the A/F screw situation have already been stated and all of them are either "free" (notch) or low cost (Cyberhick mod)..

Have fun... everything is "OK"... pull a plug in a hundred miles... smile and keep riding.

 

[barttoday]

In a word -- NO

When it comes time to change out your current filter you can opt for a K&N at that time if you want... they cost more initially, but of course they are "cleanable/recharable"...

K&N filter elements in stock boxes -- They do work better on some bikes and not as good on others.. The % gain on the ones they work better on you may or may not "feel"... basically I do not know of any credible testing (dyno) that has been done with the VTX with respect to the K&N.

I know a guy that has a speed shop with dyno and sells a LOT of aftermarket race parts ... mainly for crotch rockets... so he is ONE guy that knows how to operate a dyno.. that is what dynos are good for... TESTING.. there are some bikes he sells the K&N filter element for and he makes money on them... there are other bikes he will only sell the sock element for and the profit margin isn't as high, but the element works better ON THAT PARTICULAR BIKE than a K&N aftermarket element... it's his business/reputation to sell ONLY what performs best so that's why he has to "tell it the way it is"... He also builts race headers/exhausts which are perfected with the the dyno before market production begins.. aftermarket mapping for FI bikes, etc., etc.

So what am I saying here?? When you have some "spare change" laying around.. then would be the time for the K&N... see, that money you are saving from the dyno can go into other things -- ALSO depending on the radicalness of the "cutting" that you have performed on the airbox cover you might want to get the K&N because they are water resistant... WHAT??? Yes... The stock paper element works good, but if water gets in there it is wacked... The K&N is oil saturated when you recharge them... oil repells water.. etc., etc.

Tell ya what... the bike is running fine right now... RIDE IT... if you are looking for something to do, think about that A/F screw and fine tuning (course it COULD be spot on right now, but no one knows until you mess with it )... The options for fixing the A/F screw situation have already been stated and all of them are either "free" (notch) or low cost (Cyberhick mod)..

Have fun... everything is "OK"... pull a plug in a hundred miles... smile and keep riding.

Scar hit it. I followed his tuning method and just installed the "bigger" main jet from the kit provided to me from Barons when I installed my BAK. I used 3 shims, and I have the a/f screw out at about a hair past 2.5 turns. (I opted to cut a slot in the head. Cheap!! :bleh: Adjust it with a long screwdriver!!) I have to tell you, I have never ridden a bike that pulls harder through all of the gears. I love it!!!

:cheers: :beer: :beer: :beer: :cheers:

 

[MAD DOG]

Scar Hit It Dead On. After Doing His Carb Mod, My Bike Has Never Run Better. I Did Have Another Problem Which I Have Fixed. Just To Let You Know Just In Case. I Had A Constant Popping Sound Through My Exhaust. One Of The Header Bolts Was Stripped, Letting Air To Suck Back In The Cylinder Causing The Noise. Thanks To This Web Site We Have A Place We Can Go To For Advice

 

[Scar]

:cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers: